TomRhere

Could be that the movement of air was blowing the exhaust back under the vehicle, and that's where it came out from under it. As for the drivability issue, when was the last time the fuel filter was changed?

Hillsdale here.

Buslines are another inexspensive method of shipping. Not sure of weight limits though, and you need to drop-off/pick-up at a Depot. I've used Greyhound a few times over the years...

Yes, 4X140.

Are you saying the whole column is moving, or is it just the steering shaft that's moving inside of the cloumn? The column should not move, atleast without some great effort applied. I would think the mounting bolts under the dash are loose if it does wiggle around. If it's the steering shaft itself that's wiggling, chances are the bushing at the bottom end of the column is worn. Haven't done one from a Subaru, but have rebuilt many for old Chevy, Dodge, Ford trucks. Not to bad of a job, IF you can get the parts.......

Your Master Cylinder is worn, time to replace it before a piston cup goes out totally.

Yep, '86 has 4 lights, '82 has 2 square-looking lights.

Whoa,,, that's some serious amount of spagetti. It probally could be sorted out and properly re-connected, but I would swap in another harness myself. It's a pain to pull the dash, yes... But It would take less time and work than to trace-out all of the wiring in there. I'd go for a harness from a non-Cali, non-feedback carb vehicle seeing as you plan an EJ swap. You won't need all of the computer or extra sensor wiring anyways. Less to mess with. But that's just me....... Believe you would need the dash harness, and most likely, the frontend harness for under the hood, lighting and whatnot. Wish you luck either way......

Little bit warmer here, 21*, but I totally understand.......

Hopefully, this will work for you. The '82 has square duals, not sure if they're the same as the round duals. Looking at the wireside of the DS plug on the '82; ..........Red/Black........ Red/Blue........Red/White PS has; .........Red/Black........ Red..............Red/White The '86 DS has; ..........Red/White...... Red/Black.......Red/Blue Bright only has; Red/Blue........Red/White PS has; ..........Red/White....... Red...............Red/Blue Bright only connector has; Red.....Red/White The Red, and Red/Blue wires are the Battery + feed to the lights. Red/Black wires are Low beam. Red/White wires are High beam. If you take the bulb out and attach a wire to it where either the Red or Red/Blue wire would be in the connector and hook it to battery -. You can then use another wire from battery + to see which of the other terminals on the bulb is low and high beam. Then re-pin the connectors to match what the bulb tells you it is. Should work that way anyways. Hope that helps.........

Yeah, your lighting issue comes from the difference in how the bulbs are wired internally. The hi/low connector on the quad light system will need to be re-pinned to work on the dual light system you have now. I've swapped lots of vehicles from duals to quads and vice-versa, but right now I can't recall how you need to re-pin the connector. A look under the hood of any vehicle with dual lights will tell you what wires need to be where in the connector. Like I said, the difference is in the bulb itself. Same connector size, just pinned differently. I really like the look of it, but prefer quad lights myself...... edit; Actually, I can get you that info. I'll be heading out to the garage in a couple hours, and I can compair the '82 BRAT to the '86 BRAT and post back.

http://mshoup.us/docs/fsm/EA81/83/

My BRAT is throwing serious heat out of the heater within 10 minutes, so yeah it could've been over-heating by then, 'specially with faulty T-stat. Fan issue may be faulty thermoswitch or connection there. Also, Is the short ground wire inplace on the top of the radiator to the radiator support? If not, the fan won't run, radiator needs to be grounded for thermoswitch to operate properly.

Think of back pressure like you were crossing some deep water. You want to hit the water with enough speed to create a wave = exhaust valve opening= creation of pressure wave in pipe. Now, you need to maintain your speed to stay in the trough behind the wave = scavaging the cylinder. IE, basically the wave is pulling the remaining exhaust gasses out of the cylinder. Drive to fast, and you're in the wave = to small of pipe Drive to slow = you're in the deep water = to big of pipe To fast or to slow of wave front = exhaust gasses left in cylinder = lose power do to weaken/diluted cylinder charge. That's why your engine will run poorly at idle if the EGR valve is open, to diluted of a charge. And to quench any arguement for EGR delete for more power; No EGR valve out there will flow enough exhaust gasses to make that much power difference at higher engine speeds over idle speed.

I've read on here that 1-7/8" ID pipe is max for the lead pipes on a N/A engine, with various sizes mention for pipes after the cat. I do know the EA-81 has smaller exhaust ports than the EA-82 does, and I made a 2" dual system for the '82 BRAT w/EA-82 engine in it. Can't say whether it was low on bottom end as I've never driven another EA-82 powered vehicle to compare it with. I used to have a link to an airplane site, and in there they had a formula for determining the ID of lead pipes, length of said pipes before combining them into one, or changing pipe size. Yes it was for a non-Subaru aircraft engine, but the engine was of simular size, number of cylinders, and had 2 banks of cylinders, just like our engines. So, it seems to me it would work for us. Now, just finding it is the key...

I still suspect a faulty T-stat. Have had many a "new" one be defective right out of the box over the years. Some stuck on 1st run, others stuck after a bit of time passed. Pull the T-stat, remount the housing, fill system, start it up and see if it still wants to imitate Old Faithfull... You're not out anything but a bit of time to check it.

I can't say what the diameter is either, but do know it's a straight thread vs a tapered thread. Now with that said, look at various 37* flare hydraulic tube fittings, those are straight thread where the the flare nut screws on, tapered thread on the other end. You may find one that fits the thread of the drain hole. If the plug will screw into the flare nut, you have the part you need. Install an o-ring around the base of the hydraulic fitting where the flare nut threads onto, run the fitting into the threads in the heads drain port. Now you can use whatever thread adapter you need to hook your heater stuff up. (You can also use teflon thread sealant on the threads to insure a good seal, tape or paste your choice there.) I've used that trick many times in the past adapting various hydraulic system components onto machinery where we didn't have the correct needed fitting on hand.

Dam,, that sucks. Been on the receiving end of a few hit-n-runs myself, thankfully not with one of the BRATs yet. Wish you luck on finding the hitter and getting some compensation for the damages. Didn't do me any good to find the hitter, but maybe you'll have better luck.

Not to bad of a job.. I do reccommend you find a boot for the shifter arm though. You wouldn't believe the amount of road spray that can and will come in thru that hole. BTDT...

Sad to hear that about Scott's BRAT. He put alot of time, money, and work into that Beast. He hasn't been on here for quite some time now, and no new info on his site in ages either.

I'd be doing whatever it takes to get it out of there, myself. Around here, they'll call for a tow-truck and you pay for it, plus storage. Not always real nice about how they get it out either.

Your Welcome. Works for either EA-81 or EA-82 engines.

A Gates 28466 hose is what you want, trim to fit.

From the larger pic, it looks like the bellcrank for the cable attachment is spaced out on the throttleshaft, but it's hard to say. If it's not, it can bind on the choke rod you can see right at the front of the bellcrank, where the barrel on the end of the throttle cable attaches. Speaking of that barrel end, it looks abit askew to me, so maybe it is binding against the choke rod. Look that area over real good.