TomRhere

Check to see if the carb linkage is indeed setting against the idle speed screw, or on the fast-idle screw if choke is set. If that's good, check for missing or cracked vacuum lines. With the choke set, and a major vac leak somewhere, the engine will definetly go ballistic on the revs. Had an '84 BRAT that did that when I 1st got it. Found the large vac hose to the Anti-Afterburn valve had split open, was all better after replacing that hose.

Things I would check; shifter linkage and it's adjustment, tranny mounts, engine mounts.

Well,, the plugs look good. Can't really tell color but they're light in color. This cold I have is affectting my vision somewhat, so color hues are iffy at best. Think I'm done playing out in the rain/wind/cold today... May just chaulk this up to iffy gas and cold temps, as I really didn't find anything obviously wrong. 22 MPG sucks when you drive 64 miles a day. Thanks for the input......

Yeah, the choke opens fully and within the proper time frame. Engine gets up to temp, normal time frame there. Runs just below 1/2 on the gauge, never above that. Good heat from heater/defroster, windshield clears of frost within 5 minutes of starting engine. Running a 195* OEM T-stat. Haven't pulled plugs yet. Just came in for a hot cup of coffee. Cold, windy and rainy out there, Brrr.... No gas leak that I can find, no smell of gas around vehicle, other than from carb after engine was ran, warmed up, shut off. Hmm,,, could be the gas as I did fill the tank at the other station on my trip to/from work. Bought gas there before though, don't recall any issues. But,,, could've been the delivery they got that week.. Dunno. Have a BP and a Mobil that I normally stop at, and Tuesday was the BP, been mostly the Mobil though. Wife thinks it's from doing the 5 minute warmup in the AM and when leaving work. I really can't see where that would account for that much change in the mileage. Filled it Tuesday morning, filled it again Friday night, so that's roughly a 1/2 hour total warmup run. That's almost one trip to work, time wise, running at 55 MPH, it does it's warmup at 1100 RPM's. Just can't see it burning that much gas..... Even with the choke being on for part of that run time.

Haven't looked into anything yet, but will be heading outside in a bit to start checking things over. Problem I'm having is way lousy gas mileage for the last 2 weeks or so. I filled the tank this last Tuesday, and only drove 200 miles before gauge showed less than 1/4 tank, took a shade over 9 gallons to fill it on Friday. That ain't good at all.... Been awhile since I've done a full-to-empty run in it, but that tank got me 322 miles before I chickened out and bought gas. So I know I can do better than what the last 2 tanks have gotten me. Bit of history of maintenance done in the past month; 11-23, new tires 185/70R-13's same as what was on it. re-adjust rear brakes, adjust clutch. 11-27; new oilpan gasket, new valve cover gaskets along with adjusting the valves, new disty cap & rotor, plugs and wires are less than 6 months old, did an oil/filter change, new OEM PCV valve. 12-7; replaced altenator, swapped battery cables out for heavier gauge ones. This is an '86 BRAT GL 4spdD/R, Weber carb on an EA-82 carb intake on an older solid lifter engine (mileage unknown), no ASV, stock Y-pipe into a XT6 mid-pipe, no muffler. Timing is at 10*, doesn't seem to like the factory setting of 8*. It's been running real good until the last 2 weeks, still seems like it's running good, no smell of raw or un-burnt gas, doesn't chug or lope like it's flooding or running rich, still has plenty of giddyup to it going down the road. No miss while running at any RPM. Kinda thinking I may have gotten the valves abit tight, but not sure. Set them to the middle of the range they give in the book, just like I've done each time I've adjusted them. BRAT rolls easy, I can push it on a flat surface while sitting in the seat and putting one foot on the ground, so I don't believe there's any dragging brakes. Goes straight down the road with no pull to either side. Just looking for ideas that I may have over looked. Can't really recall how she did last Winter, but the temps might have some play in this. It's been in the teens or low 20's for the past couple weeks, so yea, maybe so.

http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html GD's how-to on SPFI conversion. He tells how to mod the EA82 disty to fit the EA81 engine. The '85 disty should be the one you need.

Two things I know to check; Make sure there is a short length of wire running from the top crossbar of the radiator to the radiator support. That is what grounds the radiator, in turn grounding the thermoswitch for the fan. Could've lost connection there. Check the plug that goes to the thermoswitch. The one on my '82 was loose fitting, and would loose contact at times. Little squeeze with some pliers made it fit better. One thing to try. Unplug the wire at the thermoswitch, run a wire from the connector to battery -, key "on" fan should run.

As far as "loose belt" issues go. You need about 7/16" (1/2" max) deflection of the belt between it's two longest runs, (being the upper side of the alt to crank pulley on my '86 EA-81 engine ,no AC, no PS). Any less than that, and you can stress the bearings/seals of components, any more and you're not turning things that need turning like they need to be. Plain and simple.... Loose belts slip, over-tight belts put un-needed stress on things. The new belt may have been just a tad wide at first, then,,, with the running of the engine, it wore enough to fit the pulley groove as it really should, thus giving you a "loose belt" condition. I would re-tension the belt, top off the coolant and fire that mother up:headbang:Keep an eye on things as far as temps and what not, but I believe it to be okay. Still have the possibility of an iffy T-stat, but probally was just the loose belt.

Went with the stock tire size. Found 5 185/70-R13's at a neaby WAL*MART, had 4 mounted on some "H" style rims I got from Jim (86subaru). Just under $230.00 out the door, lifetime road hazard/rotate/balance. (I'll be getting the 5th come payday, mounted on a plain-Jane steel rim). Don't recall actuall tire name, but they're a Douglas Brand, A/W tread design, somewhat aggressive, but not to much as in an actuall snow tire type tread. We'll see how they do on the trip into work tomorrow, it's my week to drive and they're forcasting snow. Maybe only 2", but could be more, we'll see. (Got that Lake-Effect thing around these parts). I'm just glad to be rid of the one bent rim, one busted belt that was on there, (same side even). Should've got tires sooner, yes... But money was the issue, other things had more priority, plus I had other means of getting where I needed to get.

Yes, a loose drive belt for the waterpump can cause an engine to overheat. On these little engines of ours, there's not much "belt wrap" around the pulley on the waterpump to begin with, a loose belt is not a good thing. I wouldn't rule out a sticky T-stat yet either. I've had that happen to me more than once with a "new" T-stat.

There is no "new" tanks to be had, atleast none I could find. I had a used one shipped to me from out west for a bit over $40.00 in stamps.

http://s29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/82%20BRAT/?action=view&current=82BRATPSR.jpg Bad angle, but you can see the gas cap. This is an old pic of my '82, and most pics I've seen of other '82's had simular gas caps. Link to other pics, from baccaruda's sale ad.

Just ran a 195/65/R15 thru the calc, and it gives a 24.9" size, quick search of the tire site and there's 25 listings for that size. That would give roughly 1" less clearance to obstruction/rubbing issues over stock, or a gain of a 1/2" over the previous tires I listed. Better, Yes?

Time for some new sneakers for the '86 BRAT, my DD. 13's are getting far and few between, although I have found some at tire rack and another local discount store. I do have the nessecities here to do a 6-lug swap using 15" 'Yota rims also. So,, my question is.... Just what size 15" tire works with no lift? I've searched,,, and got lost..:-\ According to the tire size calulator on subarubrat's site, a 205/70/R15 is roughly 26", where the stock 185/70/R13 is 23", so a 1.5" decrease in clearance to fender/frame areas known to be issues. Will I be good to go with no use of BFH? I'd rather beat the snot out of it out on the road/trails than up on jackstands.....

You have my Kudo's for doing a great job on resurecting that BRAT. Get thee over here and finish mine, Please...

Kinda like the Chrome mirrors meself... Didn't notice the cap missing though, to busy drooling over the rest of it I guess. I happen to have one of those if you want it, send me a PM if you do. Also just noticed the gas cap, it be flat where most wheren't. Hmmm... Need to find a pic of one....

POR-15 and RustBullet are known good rust killers. Best to get any rust areas fixed now before they get bad. That's a sweet looking '82 there, don't want to loose it. Known rust-out areas are the inner rear wheel wells and front lower fenders behind the tires for the most part. Don't drive it anywhere they use salt on the roads during the Winter.............. The way the rear shock mount is attached to the inner wheel well, leaves a catch-point for water and dirt. Keep that stuff cleaned out and you should be golden. A little bit of metal work and welding skill and you can close in that area easily. There's a "how-to" on that around, I'll dig for it and post it up when I find it. Where the front fenders attach to the body behind the front tires leaves another dirt/water catch. Not a whole lot you can do other than keep that area cleaned out. Front mudflaps will help keep road debri from damaging the paint on the rocker panels. Just need to keep an eye on those areas and do some upkeep otherwise. Some bedliner over good paint will be the best ticket. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=92751 Check out that thread and you'll see what road salt can do to a vehicle. Kudo's to ettev for doing a great job in resurecting a BRAT. I've had to put down 2 due to rust, trying to save my '82 right now.... Get some Armour-All on the dash covering. They tend to want to crack if it hasn't already. Don't lookit from the pics, but hard to tell. The one in my '86 was good, then one day it wasn't anymore...

You need to swap cam, lifters, pushrods, rocker assemblies between the two, but yeah,, it can be done. That's a narly looking engine, ucky even....

http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html In that link, you will find info on prep work needed to put the EA-82 disty onto an EA-81 engine. The EA-82 knuckle assembly will fit the EA-81 strut and ball-joint, but you must leave the EA-81 ball-joint in the control arm. Problem is the outer tie-rod end. They have a different taper between the two and won't directly fit. Not sure if the EA-82 end will fit the EA-81 steering racks inner tie-rod. People on here have swapped EA-82 power steering into an EA-81 body, so something has to fit. EA-82 radiator will physically fit into an EA-81, BUT,,,,, you have to mod where the lower locating pins fit the radiator support, and the upper mounting bolt holes are in different locations. My '82 BRAT had an EA-82 engine and radiator in it when I bought it, so I can say for sure on that much. Not real sure on lower radiator to waterpump hose, you'll have to see what fits, believe mine was a "cut to fit" thing, The outlet on the two radiators are at different angles is the issue there. EA-82 starter will work on an EA-81, same for the alt. BTDT...

Now that's one sweet looking '82 BRAT. ME likes!!!!!!

There is a right-angle drill that could be used. Radiator would have to come out, and you would probally have to atleast move the AC coil out of the way, (if you have AC). Hard part there would be getting the drill properly aligned to the crank, and keeping it that way while you drill out the hole. Can be done, but it's not an easy task.... I've had to do this on a couple vehicles. Not fun at all.. loc-Tite used to have a thread repair product. I checked their site and didn't see it listed, maybe I didn't look in the right area. I've used it, it does work, IF,,,, directions are followed to the "T". Now,, with all that said, you may want to consider getting another motor. Do a swap, then tear yours down to the crank and have a shop repair the crank. Reassemble the motor with whatever new goodies you want to use, and have a "fresh" motor for your ride.

FIXED IT!!!! I think. Swapped the fuel lines from the seperator/filter to the carb with some of the clear hose from work. Started it up and watched the flow into carb. really didn't seem like alot of gas flowing to me, so I swapped the return line and started it again. It seemed to force the air in that liine out fairly fast, but it is a smaller line. Tried to rev it up to 3000 rpm's and it started cutting out, didn't notice any air in the lines. So what the hay is going on here...... Had idea of swapping out hoses back by the pump and did so. That's when I found the problem... Seems some bug had decided to make it's nest in the fuel line I intitially swapped when I changed the filter the first time. The hose had been on a shelf out in the garage for a couple weeks. Hose is about 5" long and it was blocked with mud and junk about in the middle. Wouldn't let the gas flow.... Took the BRAT out for a run, long runs thru lower gears and what have you. No spit/sputter/cough/gag/choke/puke out of it. YEA!!!

:banana::clap::headbang: Yea Connie!!!! My Webered '86 BRAT will diesel at times, but not to often. It did do it quite a bit when I first installed it, but playing with timing and idle speed has cleared it up. It is possible that the shop that turned the flywheel didn't do it right.

The '84 Turboed one would have the EA-81T engine in it, and the way I understand it, (from reading on here), don't have the headgasket issues that the EA-82T's do. I would buy it myself, just for that reason alone, but that's just me... If you do buy the Turbo, you can always swap a D/R manual tranny into it. Either the EA-81 4 speed D/R, or the EA-82 5 speed D/R. The 5 speed swap would be slightly more involved than the 4 speed one. The '85 can be swapped to FI. The mechanical part is easy for most people, but the wiring side of it could be a nightmare if you're not one that's comfortable doing wiring.

Thanks GD. I honestly forgot about that inlet screen. Just got back in from checking it. No noticable junk in there either. Couldn't run it at 2500 RPM's very long after putting screen back in, falls on it face still. Will idle just dandy... Not in the mood to mess with it any more tonight. Going to grab some items from work tomorrow to try a few more things, mainly to verify the fuel flow from tank to carb inlet. We have some hose at the shop that's clear/tinted Blue, you can definetly see if there's any air bubbles in a liquid going thru it. Also plan to measure how long it takes to pump a gallon of gas thru the lines, I'll hot-wire the pump to do that. Plus check pump pressure. Anyone have the info on flow rate for these pumps??