TomRhere

I used the air gun 'cause that's all I had at the moment. Could've swore I had a can of carb cleaner on the shelf, but couldn't find it. Probally went the way of my can of WD-40. Son overheard me tell of how WD and carb cleaner make for excellent wasp killer.... He killed the WD in less than 5 minutes. Yeah,,, carb cleaner in the eye will definetly make you forget about anything else that may want to hurt. Some Beach!!!!! Really thinking that the float needle tip has shredded, or there's some junk blocking the inlet. Not going to tear into it anymore until I have a kit here. Really was not wanting to pull the top off the carb when I did, but I had to see what was what in there. Definetly something amiss with fuel getting into the bowl. I had replaced all of the rubber fuel lines as I was doing filters and during this check of things. Had the thought of a line delaminating causing a blockage somewhere. Haven't found such gremlin...

Further update..... It ain't the tank........ Drained a little over 8 gallons out of it, gas is nice and clean looking. Swapped filters again, no noticable crud out of them. SO,,,, it looks to be either the pump going out, or the FPCU is acting up. Have spares of both. Could be the float in the Weber too, we shall see. Atleast the rain is holding off for now.... edit: @2:51 PM Ok.... Swapped the FPCU, no help. Hooked the spare pump up, no help. Was a strange feeling holding the pump while working the gas pedal with other hand. Felt like I had a beating heart in my hand, but the engine would still fall on it's face and sputter. Pulled the top of the Weber. Hmmmm,,, very little gas in the float bowl. Float and needle valve operated freely. Used an air gun and blew thru all of the passages I could, and put the top back on. Still no help... Guess it's time for a rebuild kit.........

Well,,,, looks like I rushed things a bit. The Thursday before Labor Day, the BRAT wanted to fall on it's face if I ran up thru the gears hard. Spit and sputtered like it was running out of gas. Couldn't maintain speeds over 60 MPH very long either or same thing happened. It had been running good since I swapped tanks. OK,,, time for new fuel filters. Left old ones in to catch any junk that may have been in the (new) tank, had new ones ready to go in. Swapped them out over the weekend while doing brakes all around. I poured rusty mud out of the one from the rear. Not a good sign!!!!!! Drove it to work this last Friday with no issues, (1st trip made with it). Coming home, I stopped and put about 5 gallons ($20) in the tank. Stopped at my favorite Bar to pickup dinner (per Wife's orders). Upon leaving the Bar, it started the spit/sputter again, only now,,, can't do over 35 MPH in 4th, or extended lower gear runs. Drove the 20 some miles home on back dirt roads. Really wasn't fun at all. I really should've flushed the tank out before I put it in. But no, I was in a big hurry to get the BRAT back on the road. Now, I get to drain roughly half or better tank of gas out to do so. Then I get to figure out how to filter the drained gas before I put it back in. It don't pay to rush things.

I'll bet there's a plug of sediment blocking that drain hole. Not to many people mess with that one 'cause of where it's located, kinda difficult to get to. I've had 2 engines with the drain in the PS head blocked with sediment, and had to open it up with a small screwdriver. The end of a coat hanger may be the proper tool for that drain hole.

It is best to use some kind of lubricant on the o-ring when installing the tube. Straight Anti-Freeze would even work as a lube. Installing it dry, could allow the o-ring to get rolled out of the groove. I lightly coat the area where the tube fits in the pump also

Check T-belt timing. Could've been done wrong and someone deemed it to have bent valves do to no-start/poor running. MilesFox and I bought an XT6 that way a few years back. Was told bent valves, but T-belts weren't right. Re-timed belts and she purred like a kitten. Alas, no title, so she was just a parts car....

Guess I did finally toss it.

I may have the old one frrom the '85 BRAT, I'll look for it after work today.

Wouldn't think it'd be a maintenance item. Nothing inside of them according to the one I just cut open from an '86 BRAT. Did so just cause of this thread...... One hose goes to the top of unit, 2 others off bottom, all 3 go back to the tank. 2 near the fill tube, other one goes around to the front side of tank. Not sure what goes on inside of tank..... Hmmm... pics are in my gallery also, should you want bigger pic. Dunno why they aren't thumbs and linked, but they ain't.......

It'll be ok for a short time, but I would get another one. Did the same thing myself basically, knocked mine off the workbench. Used it for quite a while before finding another, no belt damage noted. But that could be an exception instead of the norm...

Both of you may want to check the rear wheel bearings. My '85 BRAT is making simular noises to what is described in this thread. I bought it roughly a year ago and drove 250 miles home with no issues other than wimpy rear brakes. They needed adjusting, but adjusters were froze up. I opted for the rear disc conversion. When I went to loosen the axle nuts, they were finger tight at best. After the disc install, I torqued the nuts to proper setting. Now,,, I have noise, as in a rumble going straight ahead, and it changes pitch when turning corners. Really doesn't sound like it's coming from the rear either. To me, sitting behind the wheel, it sounds like PS front. Passengers say it sounds like DS front. Pretty sure it's the rears though, just because it didn't do it before the rear disc swap/proper torque on axle nut. Hadn't touched anything else under the BRAT, other than doing oil/filter change and changing out fuel and air filter(s) at that time. Noise started right after doing the rear brakes, like within a 1/2 mile. Can't really see a front bearing giving out, just because I worked on the rear, either. Putting BRAT up on jackstands didn't help in locating source of noise either. No real weight on wheel bearings, so they won't make noise unless they're really bad.

Glad the pics helped....

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=1164 Link to pics of backside of dashes. Dash pics on red background is the '82 dash. Blue background is the '86 dash. I need to clean out the '82 BRATs interior before I can get any shots of it, if you need some of those. Son tore his room apart looking for the camera, didn't like the idea of being with out his scooter. :lol:

According to MilesFox, the EA-82 Y-pipe is a bolt-on replacement for the EA-81 Y-pipe, if the ASV spacers are removed. I haven't tried one, so can't confirm it. As for your question about the head shape at the exhaust ports between the two, here's a pic. Here's link to thread the pic came from. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=82829 Ea-82 on left, EA-81 on right.

Son needs to find my camera before I can do pics..... Gave him some incentive,,,,,,,,,,,, I took both keys for his scooter..

I can get some pics taken this weekend. I have the entire dash out of an '86, and I have the interior stripped out of my '82. Between those, should be able to get you what you need. It would be Saturday afternoon before I could do this, I work Saturday mornings.

You will only have an ECU if your's has a feedback carb on it. Does the Y-pipe have an O2 sensor in it, right in front of where the 2 pipes from the heads connect at the converter. If not, chances are you don't have an ECU. There are 2 fuel filters. One under the hood, the other is just in front of the left rear tire. A Weber 32/36 carb swap does wonders for these li'l engines. You can pick them up on Ebay for a decent price and rebuild/rejet it cheaply.

The mustache bar needs to be dropped off the outer mounting points allowing the diff to pivot on the front mount. No need to drop the entire diff and axles out.

Should bolt right in. They are a tad bit wider across the bottom cushion, but they fit nicely. I really like the feel of the ones I have in the '85 BRAT, (not sure what they came out of). I have another set out of an '85 Sedan for in the '82 BRAT, when I get it back together.

Yep, it's the Stop lamp Checker Relay. Both BRATs I've had the trim panel off of had the relay there, an '82 and an '86.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=71341 There's Gary's how-to. I agree on it being in the speedometer head. Been my experience that a bad cable would cause issues at different speeds, not just a particular one.

I would leave them also. There should be a shield covering most of those lines in the wheel well. You could fashion more shielding using some aluminum roof flashing to help cover the exposed areas. And Seals All is some great stuff to carry in the vehicle. I have used it many times to plug a holed gas tank...........

Doing the clutch side of it, would be simular to doing a D/R 5speed swap in an EA-81 body. There's lots of info on doing that part of the swap on here. Electrically, you would have to extend the wires for the disty so they reach the EA-81 disty. Method of doing so is up to you, but I would just use some ring and spade terminal ends on some lenghts of wire for a temporary hook up. I believe you would need to swap the temp gauge sender betwen the two engines so your gauge reads normally, They are different. I think the oil pressure unit are the same, providing,,, that they both be gauge or both warning light. If you remove the spacers for the ASV tubes on the EA-81, the EA-82 Y-pipe will bolt right on. Can't remember if the EA-82 Y-pipe will bolt on if the spacers are left on, but can say it will hang lower because of them. You may need to replace the fuel hoses to the Weber carb, don't think the stock EA-82 lines will reach properly. The hoses, that are now on the BRAT, should work though... Over the years of stuffing this engine into that car body, I've used sections of exhaust pipe to aide in routing radiator hoses. All just temporary until proper hose could be found of course, but it'll last for quite some time that way. I left one in for over 6 years because a friend said "I was stupid for doing so 'cause it would rust thru fast". Oh contrare mon amie......

Ordered new filters yesterday, along with some hose to re-do the ones under it. Hoses looked and felt good, but now that I've "disturbed" them, who knows. Will do the fuel system cleaner once the filters get here.

Bought a tank off Stumpy, it's been here for over a week now. I've just been waiting for the weather to cooperate to get it swapped in. Well, yesterday was a nice day, so I swapped tanks. Broke everyone of the hose clamps trying to get them off. Even broke a couple of the hose barbs off the tank removing hoses, so it be scrap metal now. Mustache bar came down with little issue, but the tank mounting bolts argued with me about coming out. Made a trip to parts store for new clamps, and installed the "new" tank. Had to splice the sending unit wires together, as the ones under mine were badly corroded and broke trying to undo them. Dumped in the 2 gallons of gas I drained from old tank and drove to the gas station. 11.855 gallons filled it, or should I say the $58.00 I had went into the tank. Gauge shows full, but it might not be completely full. So far so good.. No runs, no drips, no errors (so far)...... Thanks go to Stumpy for sending me the tank. And to Mother Nature for doing a beautiful non rainy or otherwise wet day..........