TomRhere

Myself, I would swap the whole door out instead of trying to fit something on a bent up door. Just remember to swap the key lock over... You may be able to straighten out the dent in the compartment with some wood and a scissor jack. It just depends on how badly it's dented. I've had some luck doing so, but there's been a few that I couldn't straighten out that way.

Haven't checked actual mileage in awhile, keep forgetting to write stuff down... But,, last tankfull in the '86 BRAT, Weber carb. I went 322 miles before the low fuel light started to glow. Could've went further, but gas was ten cents cheaper at the station I stopped at vs here where I live. Last tankfull in the '85 BRAT, all stock components. I drove 288 miles before low fuel light came on. This is mostly back roads, driving 64+ miles everyday for work, very little in town, and no highway. 55 mph for the most part.

OK!! If mine are tinted, they be the Blue tint. can't really say they're tinted, slight change in color when looking thru them vs not looking thru the glass. Don't think I would call it either, but really can't say it's Gold tint. Out of an '88 XT6...

Hmm, didn't know there was different tints for these windows. But I have one available, I'll check the tint color and post back.

You are correct in the vac lines you need to keep. If,,,, you can follow the spagetti of vac lines, you can keep your EGR valve working by rerouting it's supply vac source. I can't tell you how to do it myself.. As far as installing the Weber goes, it's easy. There is a problem with the bolts they send with the kit though, (atleast the one from Redline), they're to long. But a trip to your local hardware store can solve that issue. Talking about the bolts that hold the bottom section of the adapter, to the manifold here.. You need to remove the fuel inlet connection from your old carb and install it on the Weber. You may have to put a plug in on the other side of the fuel inlet on the Weber as it may be drilled and tapped. Some are, some ain't.. Hook your fuel lines up as they were on your old carb, you may need to get some hose to properly reach the Weber. You may need to install a Fuel Pressure Regulator in the supply line to the Weber. Some have had to do so, some not.. Lot of people that have done the swap put a small filter on the driver side PVC breather hose, and rework how the passenger side hose, and PCV valve hose attach to the "F" fitting, and then run small hose of it to the Weber breather housing. I have a write up of doing a Weber swap on my BRAT using an EA-82 intake manifold. I can send it to you if you'd like. Email me at tomrhere at yahoo dot com, using Weber swap in the subject line. You won't have to do everything I did, but it'll give you good info..

Check to make sure your rear brakes aren't in need of adjustment. Mine make a noise simular to metal on metal when the rears are in need of some tweekage..

WOW!! Nice pay off. Did you or are you going to buy it back and sell parts?

Welcome to the Board... If the noise is from the engine it could be from the HLA's (hydraulic lash adjusters), they're what open/close the valves. They could be a bit sticky from sitting for so long. We refer to it as the "tick of death" (TOD), but it's not a serious problem, just annoying. I reccomend draining a quart of oil out and pouring in a quart of Dextron II ATF, run it for about 60 miles or so and then do an oil change. The ATF will clean out the oil system and may free up the HLA's. Could also be that you need to reseal the oil pump as it's sucking air around the MickeyMouse gasket, (so called because of it's shape).

Nice score!! Wish I could find one like that...

I didn't know that..

Hmmm, maybe someone has swapped it over to an EA-82 Y-pipe. You can put one of those on an EA-81, but not the other way around, without the ASV spacer blocks.

Put a post in the Market Place for another tank. I may try to fix this one, but I do need to get another one just incase.

No. The length of the tubes from where they curve up to the heads are shorter on the EA-81s. If you still have the spacer blocks that the ASV tubes attached to, then you may be able to use it.

Sounds like you need to adjust the clutch cable.

Well,,, it is the tank. There's a bunch of pin holes above the seam on the front edge. I'll have to clean it of all the junk that's on it to really see how bad it is, but it don't look good. I'm somewhat surprized that UPS will do a gas tank that has had gas in it. I may try to get this one repaired, just depends on if the sending unit bolts want to play nice and come loose without breaking off. I'll soak them down with PB Blaster and/or Seafoam Deep Creep. But knowing Michigan rust like I do, I doubt they'll come loose. Then again, I may go for a tank from the PNW. Would one of you get me the price of a tank and UPS shipping cost? I have use of Corporate address at 49203.

I know there's interference around the disty, and the alt bracket when putting EA-82 intake on an EA-81. It can be worked around though. I've read on here about people having issue where the case halves meet, but I haven't ran into that myself.

A nice clean "no rust" tank would be great, but how would one get it shipped. Thinking now that I won't take it to work today. It's possible that one of the hoses on there failed instead of the tank. If that be true, it's best to leave it sit until I can get under it to check things over.

Seems my '86 BRATs tank has developed a leak. Put about 8 gallons in it yesterday morning, and now I smell gas around it. Looked underneath it and the front of the tank is wet, but not dripping. Turned it around so nose is pointing uphill in the driveway. I checked it after a couple hours and it appears to be drying off. I'll drive it to work tomorrow to burn off some gas before I drop it down.

I believe those are for the power window option. I'll have to remember your fix for the clock for when I put the '82 back together. It wouldn't hold memory either.

Non commercial use vehicles can be registered as a passenger vehicle here in Michegan. I've road around with people in the back of the '82, cops looked real hard at them as we went by, but never was stopped for it.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=59454 Scroll down to post 11, I have measurements and link to pics there.

Hurt for about 5 minutes, then no more pain. Didn't bleed all that much either. I had cut the PS rocker, then part of the driveshaft tunnel, moved to the DS and finished the tunnel cut. Was still on my knees when I cut the DS rocker, and BAM. Edge of door opening on the roof line nailed me. If I wasn't already on my knees, it would've put me there. Really thought I had the noggin clear of roof, but I guess I was wrong.

The XT6 crossmember also has wider spacing between the bolts that mount it to the frame rails. I'm not 100%, but I'm thinking the mount bosses for the steering rack are reversed on the XT6 crossmember vs the rest of the EA-82 ones. There's a round one, and a square one on each, but they're flipped side to side.

Just uploaded the final pics of the 6 into my photo album. Finished the cutting up of the 6 over the weekend. Managed to get myself 5 staples in the top of my head when I cut the 6 in half, had the noggin to far inside of car on final cut. OUCH!!

The Green hose is someones "quick-fix". There should be a formed hose on there, up to the Black Silencer just above the Air Suction Valve that the Greeen hose is on. The Silencer in the pic is broke where the hose should connect. I may have those parts out in the garage, I'll look after work. Yours if you can't find any closer. You really should run NGK plugs, Subarus don't always like other brands, and tend to run funcky on them.