TomRhere

The linkage on the carb keeps the choke from closing until you hit the go pedal, then it should close, cold engine of course. GD has mentioned many times that the spring coil for the choke likes to break the tab end off, so if the choke plate doesn't close on it's own, chances are that the spring has broke. Move the choke plate by hand to see if there's any binding of the linkage, as that will effect operation. As far as looking at the sparkplugs, they should have a Light Tan color to the center ceramic, may be Pinkish looking from some gas additives. Anything else indicates a problem of some sort, depending on condition of plug(s).

I have a 2nd Gen set out in the garage, I can get measurements in a couple hours. Shipping would be a pain, more for the size than the weight involved. UPS will go as far as 150 pounds, business addy to business addy. I can't say what their over all size limit is though. Might be better to ship frame and seats seperate. Greyhound or another bus line may be an allternative method for shipping also. If package isn't to heavy, or will fit in the baggage compartment, they're pretty reasonable on charges. edit; Took advantage of lull in the storms rolling thru here. Here's the tell of the tape. Overall width handle to handle = 41-1/2", @ seat = 39-1/2", Seatback to handle = 21-1/2" Frame bottom to-- seat top = 21", top of handle = 15-1/2", top of tube behind seat = 18" Top of frame base to seat top = 18", one seat width = 17-1/2" Seats are offset of the 3 legs of the frame, but one set of legs are 16" apart outside of tube to outside of tube.

I agree with GD. Keep everything you can pull, never know when you might need something, and it would suck having to buy something you tossed.

That just so totally SUCKS!!!! Where did the framerail break? The pic makes it look like it could be fixed, but hard to say if the rail is broken. If you do scrap it, I may be interested in a few items. Really hate to take advantage of anothers misery, but parts is parts.

I've been thinking on this myself for one of the BRATs. Here's a few of my thoughts.... Keep the EA-81 mustache bar and build lift blocks to suit the lift height. Build offset lift blocks to adapt the EA-82 rear crossmember tube to where the EA-81 torsion tube mounts on the body. Build mount blocks to adapt the EA-82 rear strut top mount to the EA-81 rear shock mount point on the body. This is all just from sitting in the garage looking at the various parts involved, sipping a couple of cold ones. Nothing has been stuffed under the BRAT yet to see just what all is involved. But it just seems to be the easiest way I can come up with.

:lol: :lol: Guess I should wait until I actually drink a cup of coffee before I try reading stuff that early in the AM.. Oh well, everyone needs a good laugh now and then.......

Real nice looking 'Ru. The Gold rims makes a big difference. quote The wheels look really good! Never really thought gold would go that nicely with red but it does quote The USMC seem to think Crimson (red) and Gold works well together.

Just did a map search, found 2 Helena, Mi locations. One is in the thumb area, other is in the U.P.. A search for Fort Harrison came up empty. Either way, it's a long way from me, I'm in the Carpal Tunnel area.

Get the one in the 2nd link you posted. It's a 2 core vs a Single core in the 1st link.

I would bet you're leaking coolant at the carb base, 'specially seeing as you only used one gasket on the spacer. Just repaired my BRAT for the same conditions. Rough running at start up, big ol cloud of steam out exhaust, then it'd run on all four. Blown carb base gasket, for the 2nd time......

Popped the carb base gasket, again. Not quite like when it did it last November, but it still dumped coolant down the intake. I had plugged the coolant port with some JB Weld and some screen, but it didn't hold all that good apparently. Drove the BRAT all week the week before Mothers Day with no issues. Went to move it on Mothers Day, it started up but was only running on a couple cylinders for a minute or two. Then big ol cloud of steam out the exhaust and she was running on all four. I had a hunch the gasket let loose again. Tore it down yesterday, and sure enough, coolant in the intake runners. I had found another EA-82 carb intake out in the shed while digging for other parts. Took that into work and had the coolant port Heli-Arced shut. That manifold is now on the engine, and hopefully I won't have any more problems of coolant down the intake. Atleast this time, it did it in the driveway instead of 20 some miles from home. Didn't need to swap sparkplugs this time either. Next Weber swap I do, that cotton-picking coolant port is getting the same treatment with the welder at work.

When that carb base gasket blew on my '86 BRAT last November, it wouldn't fire up after repairs until I swapped in new sparkplugs. May want to try that.

I would have them check that part number to see if it is listed for an '84 Hatch also. Ifso, you should be good. Some places call the EA-82 3-door a Hatch, but it really isn't. EA-81 u-joints have internal clips holding the caps in, and are replaceable like any other u-joint. By internal, it means clips are inboard of the yoke ears, vs being on the outside of the caps = external EA-82 u-joints are staked in. They're called un-serviceable, but they can be replaced.

I can't give exact details, but mid '80's thru early '90's GMs had a power tap under the hood. Mounted with 2 screws and had a 3/8"-16 x 1" stud, might even be a bit longer. Company I worked for during that time span made them for GM. Might have been for truck and vans only. Check some GM vehicles next time you're at a yard.

Soaking them in some really hot water will soften them some, may help in getting them in. You don't want boiling water, but just as hot as you can stand to reach into to grab one or two. Check the HELP displays at various parts stores, I've found some there. You may need to go to a few different stores to get what you need.

I have an EA-82 carb intake on my EA-81 also. Alt bracket had to be trimmed a bit to clear manifold. It sits real close to the seam of the case halves, but there is an air gap under the manifold. If this vehicle isn't lifted, the EA-82 lower radiator hose works for the new upper hose, just needs a slight bit of trimming.

Looking Good!!!

Uploaded some pics, I'll get some more taken shortly. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=1145 Engine/trans/front suspension all be out now, still need to get rear suspension out. Rainy day out, so things are still needing done...

My '88 XT6 is no more. it's been sitting here in the driveway for about 18 months, undriveable, taunting the heck outta me. Rust issues be the main cause of death, but it wouldn't start anymore either. Had it running once, just sitting there idling, and it died, would not fire back up. Spent two ten hour days and one 8 hour day pulling things off it. Rear suspension is all that is left to pull, then it's cutting torch time. I will be posting items for sale once I've done inventory of things available. It will be mostly odds and ends though as most of the major components are already spoken for, IE; engine, tranny, brake stuff, suspension stuff, swaybars. The amount of rust totally amazed me. I knew there was rust issues, but this things is way bad. I have pics, but my camera and 'puter aren't talking to eachother right now. I'll post them up soon. Scary part of all the rust is about two weeks before it died I had it up to 125 MPH running down a back country road, loving all of the twisties in that particular stretch. Going to miss that car......

I've used Restore. It's not a fix-all, but it did help the tired old 283 in the '68 Chevy truck I had. Probally got another year of daily driving out of it after I added Restore. Only reason I tried it was I couldn't afford to get another engine or rebuild that one as I needed the truck on the road. Couldn't afford a replacement vehicle either..

Do believe those plugs are for power window controls. The rather large relay is the Stop Lamp checker. Lites the "Stop Lamp" on the dash if one of the stop lamps goes out.

To bad I'm not closer to you. I have 2 - ER-27's sitting out in the garage.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/data/500/bracket1.jpg There's a rough sketch of the bracket. It's made from a 1" wide strip of sheetmetal. Would've posted pic, but camers is MIA thanks to Son.. edit; There is supposed to be 2, 5/8" long feet on the bracket. Don't understand why it shows only 1, I drew 2......

Different size tires can cause binding issues, along with tires of different manufacturers. Tire size may read the same, but overall diameter can be different.

Nice looking BRAT!!!!!