TomRhere

There should be brackets on the front wall of the bed for the lower end of the headrest track. Sounds as if someone cut those off for what ever reason. Sorry, no pics of them. I can get pics latter today, or tomorrow.

The EA-82 engine will fit between the frame rails of a 2nd Gen BRAT, Hatch, Wagon, Sedan with no re-work. Tight,,, yes,,,, only 1/4"-3/8" clearence each side between cam covers and frame. But it does fit.... Can't really say that all of the lift will fit, but do know that the bolt pattern for the engine crossmember, and the mount plates for the radius rods are the same between EA-81 and EA-82, it's just that the EA-82s are wider. So if the lift isn't tied together at those points, it should bolt up. Then you have the strut top difference, 2 bolt vs 3 bolt. Scot, (SJR) made sko a set of strut lift mounts, EA-81 top and EA-82 strut end for his BRAT, so it's doable. The rear is a whole different story....

That,, sounds scary to me!!!!

http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/timingbelt.htm

Happy B-Day!!!!!!!

Two things I can think of that might cause the problem. To much travel of the linkage when you floor the pedal to set the choke. Try adjusting the cable for a bit less movement by turning the adjusting nuts more towards the housing of the cable. A binding of the linkage for the choke and the bellcrank of the throttle cable. Mine did that when I first put the Weber on. Did you put any spacers on the throttle shaft between the Webers linkage and the bellcrank for the cable? That's where mine was binding. I put a couple of flat washers between the pieces there, no more binding.

Here's a shot of the difference in size of the carb ports of the manifolds. http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/Weber%20swap%20on%20EA-81%20engine/EA-81EA-82Manifold2.jpg

Front seats will bolt in. Makes for a nice upgrade if you're needing new seats. I believe there's a how-to in the USRM on installing the EA-82 dome light into the EA-81 body.

It's cheaper to get the 2-piece from a yard than it is to have a longer 1-piece shaft made is what he's saying, I believe..

I don't know how easy it would be to do so without tearing this one apart, and I don't plan on doing that. You'd have to either tear into yours, or get one from a parts car to tear apart and go from there. As far as a cup holder goes, my travel mug sits nicely between the e-brake handle and PS seat, but that's in my BRATs. Been to long since I drove the XT6 to remember if it fit there or not. But the need for one in your ride is different than mine. It'd be your call....

Here's a couple pics of the assembly showing both sides. Pics are located in my photos..

I was just out in the shed digging around and ran across an EA-82 E-brake control. You won't have to mess with the cables themselves, other than to disconnect them to remove the handle from vehicle for planned mods. You will however need to mess with the release button mechanism so it will still operate after you mod the handle. And it will take slightly more effort to operate E-brake with a shorter handle, as you loose some of the advantage of the fulcrum effect of the lever action.

One could shorten the handle so that it was no longer than the hand is wide. However, that would require more effort to operate the E-brakes.

I can't say anything about the wiring issue you have, but the starter itself is dying. The whine you hear is the starter motor free-spinning at high RPMs because the solenoid isn't pulling the drive gear out to mesh with the flywheel. I've had a few starters of various makes do that and found it's usually caused by wear of the pivot point of the lever that moves the drive gear.

Man, that is one nice looking Brumby!!!

Here's the tell of the tape on the radiators I have here...... XT6 Dual Core; Total side to side width is 29-3/4" Total top to bottom height is 15-1/4" including locating pins Locating pin center to center is 20-3/16", length is 3/4" Both hose fittings measure 1-1/2" and slant upwards slightly Thickness is roughly 1-9/16" at core and 2" at seams. EA-82 Single and Dual core; Total width is 29-3/4" Total height is 15-3/4" including pins Locating pins center to center is 21-1/4", length is 7/8" Both hose fittings are 1-1/8" Upper hose fitting is straight out, lower is angled up almost 90* and out to the side of tank. Total thickness is same as the XT6 radiator for both the Dual and Single core.

Interesting reading. Sounds like some good stuff, I'll have to try some myself.

Yeah, bent rims suck... And they're not the best thing to have on the front of a vehicle. Really rough on steering components. Good you found it. Thinking I bent my right front the other day. Was going around a lefthand curve and found a pothole the hard way. Now I have a bad shimmy at anything over 60 MPH.

The FPCU is mounted on the DS kickpanel behind the fuse block, and is about the size of a deck of cards. So that's not it. Don't recall seeing anything like that item when I gutted my '82 BRATs interior. I'd have to go out and look at things to be sure though. The BRAT is a California model, had feed-back carb with the ECU under the steering column.

With the engine slid forward from the tranny, there is enough wiggle-room in the tranny mounts to allow you to drop one axle off the tranny at a time.

I hear simular noise from the rear brakes of my '86 BRAT. Usually when I've pulled into the driveway, kill the engine and pull the E-brake, let off the brake pedal. I'm thinking it's just the brake shoes returning to thier relaxed position, rubbing on the backing plate, causing the noise. My rear brakes are in need of adjustment though. (Adjuster screws are siezed, so I can't adjust them right now, (new adjusters are on order)). But that could be what you are hearing from your brakes.

If the above offered caps aren't to your liking, maybe some of these will be. http://store.nexternal.com/shared/StoreFront/default.asp?CS=americamag&StoreType=BtoC&Count1=704250514&Count2=621390938&CategoryID=1973&Target=products.asp

Isn't there something about the shape of the valve cover between the two? Thought I read on here that the small valve ones had rounded corners where the large valve ones had the angled corner.

The axles have rusted to the splines. Heat, penetrating spray and hammer is the method called for. Heat the spline area, spray with the penetrant, repeat. That'll help draw the penetrant into the splines, but you may have to let them soak for a bit, like a day or two. Then you start beating the crap out of them. Once you get them off, clean the splines real good and apply some Anti-Sieze to them. I get to do this to all 3 of my BRATs here shortly....:-\

The way I understand it, the heads themselves are basically the same between Hydro and solid lifters, (if both heads are of the large valve type). It's the lifters, pushrods, and rocker arm assemblies that are different between the two, camshaft may be different too. Hydro rockers look the same as the solid ones, but the Hydro ones have a locking tab under the adjusting nut, where the solid ones do not. You just need to use the rocker assembly for the type of motor you're putting the head(s) on.