TomRhere

The EA-82 engine will fit between the frame rails of a 2nd Gen, with about 3/8" clearance per side. It's an alternative if you can't source all the parts to put the EA-71 engine in. I can give you the details on shoe-horning the EA-82 engine in if you want them.

Not a real fan of White XT's, but that's gorgeous!!! Nice find!!!

It is not normal for the hub splines to wear. That usually indicates that the axle nut wasn't tight. Been a few of us on here that have had to re-torque the axle nut after repairs and driving for 100 miles or so. The conical washer should have rounded edge, if it's worn to a sharp edge, you need to replace it. You'll also need to replace the hub do to the spline wear.

Just so you know.... Those mounting clips are a bear to remove, and chances are you'll break the locking tabs off, BTDT. All is not lost if you do break them, some automotive adhesive will hold them on.

Welcome to the Board!!!! Read your post in the "Want to Buy" forum, and I have to agree with what was said about the stock systems. They R the suck!!!! But I also can go along with you wanting to keep things "stock". My Wife wants to keep her '85 BRAT as stock as possible, (which means I have to remove the 2" front lift, along with the fancy American Racing Chrome rims :] ). Anyways, replacing the door speakers isn't all that big of a job. Pop the grilles and lower panels off and have at it. The dash speakers are another matter, as you can't really get replacements for them, especially the one on the drivers side. Hatchsub has put this up on the Board before, so I hope I'm not stepping on toes by doing this. Here's his website, http://www.cardomain.com/ride/724118/3 He tells how to go about upgrading the front speakers. Looks pretty darn good to me... If you do go with an aftermarket head unit, you'll need to run new speaker wires, stock wiring is common ground for speakers and the new stuff don't like that......

I too, updated my post an added a link to pics......

'86 BRAT GL Big dent between DS "B" pillar and wheel arch, DS door hard to close due to above dent, PS door bottom rusting out, DS door bottom rusting out, Both fender wells in bed rusting away, Big bend in rollpan under tailgate area, No tailgate due to above bashment, Rear bumper is bent, not orginal bumper either, Rear DS axle outer joint boot missing, Custom "Redneck" exhaust from Y-pipe back, complete with custom coathanger supports, Cracked dash, Crack in windshield behind rearview mirror, from a stone hit, Rear brake adjusters are way rust frozen, Missing grille and headlight trim, Leading edge of hood bent, along with PS fender from Deer strike, No real heat from heater when driving above 40 MPH and temps are below 20*, (all associated parts are new) Have an irritating chrip from steering column when using the high beams, 4 different colored rims, Need new tires, Different keys for doors and ignition, Oil leak on front of engine, gets on exhaust when stopped and smell comes in thru heater system, "A" Pillar rusting out on DS at windshield lower edge, DS seat has holes in the covering, Has older solid lifter motor, mileage unknown, Can't trust gas gauge, it'll read oddly at times. Like full when it's 1/4 tank or 1/2 max after I just filled it, Wiper blades miss windshield on upstroke when going over 50 MPH Pics; http://s29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/White%2086%20BRAT/Damage/ But there ain't nothing wrong with the radio!!!!!!! (Aaron Tippens song)

Empty your inbox... I can't reply to your questions until you do......

Thank You........

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/82%20BRAT/bratbelt2.jpg Pic of how alt was done on my '82 BRAT with EA-82 engine. Belt is a GoodYear 15411 Gatorback (11AV1030). Compressor bracket was still on engine, and I did manage to get a proper length bolt for the front most hole to better secure the upper bracket, some time after that pic was taken.

Very good slide show..... Don't think I could sell one of mine after putting in as much time and effort as you did to yours.. Cheers!!

It could very well be the vacuum booster for the brakes has popped it's diaphram. Pull the checkvalve out of booster, tape over the end of it real good with some electrical tape, Start engine and check reading on the vac gauge. If it reads better vac, and engine performs better, the diaphram is shot. Time for a new booster....

Welcome to the Board.

Thank you Skip, I keep forgetting about that... Wires leading to it are old, and they can short out or break. If that happens, you have no fuel delivery for idle.

Ditto with the '86 BRAT... 4 year old radiator, new heater core, new Subaru T-stat. Around town, good heat and just below 1/2 mark on gauge. Get out on the road at 50 MPH + and gauge drops below the 1/4 mark, heater is blowing luke warm.... I can watch the T-stat open/close while driving down the road and looking at the temp gauge. It'll rise then fall, then rise again, repeat... This is on a 32 mile trip one-way to work, coming home it'll do better in the temp department. Seems the cold morning air is cause, but I'll find out this weekend as temps are to be less than 10* for high temp around here and I have to work this weekend...

Probally was enough of a jolt to knock a piece of junk loose and it is clogging the idle jet(s). Seen it happen on a few vehicles and/or equipment. Carb rebuild or replacement is in order. May get lucky and blow it out using some air directed at the various passages and jets, but........??

Mostly rain for the overnight down at this end of the State. Turned to freezing rain/sleet during the day. Sometime after 2:30 PM, it switched to heavy wet snow. Had around 3" of that, on top of the ice covering the roads. Was a long,, slow,,, drive home in Son's '93 GMC Sonoma ST. 4.3L V6, MPFI, 3 speed w/OD, Posi-trac..... This truck will do doughnuts if you spit in front if it,,,, it don't do slick roads at all. It will chirp the rear tires on dry pavement shifting from park into any gear, at factory idle speed mind you... I used to own the truck, and I have roasted the rear tires for a city block, just cause someone said it wouldn't do it.............. YES IT WILL!!!!! It is "not",,, a winter vehicle... The ST decal on it stands for,,, Spins Tires, not Sport Truck. I should've drove the BRAT, but didn't think we'd get any real nasty stuff out of that storm..... Boy was I wrong.. Would've much prefered all snow rather than the stuff we got..... edit; As they say, 3rd times a charm. Took me 3 different tries at posting this since thread 1st posted. When I hit the submit button, I'd get "page not found" and couldn't get back onto site. All other sites I tried worked, so,,, "what up with that"?????

That would be a fitting end for my XT6....... To bad it's so far away. I'd have to trailer the 6 there, if I could get it to run again....... Not sure for the won't start issue, but the body is shot, so point is moot....... Would be interesting though. Connie, I would be willing to let you be 1st or 2nd driver if I could get it there. Rocky would have to be there though, just so he can see what he's in for if he don't straighten his act up.... Hell, I'd even be willing to do a quicky paint job on it, to really make mine look like Rocky's twin....

Yep, sure sounds like the freeze plug(s) popped. They are located in the head, under the valve cover. You'll have to remove the one that popped and replace it with a new one. Haven't had to do this on a Subaru, so can't tell how easy it is. But you'll have to pull both valve covers to find the bad one. Remove it and install new one. You'll need to flush the oil system out after you get the repairs done. Rislone makes a good engine flush, but I just use a quart of fresh oil, new filter, and 2 quarts of kerosene, run engine until it gets warm, drain. Do proper oil/filter change.

I think there is one more screw on the lower part of the driver's side. It's been awhile since I pulled mine out, so I could be wrong. Fragile doesn't even come close to discribing that trim piece. Mine was broke when I got the 6. I pulled it in hopes of fixing it somehow. (I worked in a Plastic Injection Mold Plant at the time and had access to different adhesives for plastics). I had the 2 pieces hanging on nails out in the garage until I could do/attempt repairs. It basically crumbled in my hands as I tried working with it. It's now in about 20 pieces......

My money is on a bad alt. The "Christmas tree dash" isn't the only sign of one being bad. They have other ways of failing, like the voltage regulator can fail causing a drain on the battery.

Just to add to what Nug wrote... 1st step is to rotate engine to TDC #1 cylinder and check that all of the timing marks align. There's a rubber plug in the belt cover for checking the cam position. All marks should be at their position and disty pointing to #1. It's been a long time since I've done one of these engines. I'm not real sure on how you see the marks for the auxilary shaft, and the book doesn't say. Remove the spark plugs to make it easier to rotate the engine, and never turn one of them backwards as that can cause belt to slip. If the belt has slipped, get a new one. Never use one that has jumped as it won't hold and will do it again.

Wondering if that flexhose isn't getting somewhat pinched when hood is closed. Ifso, the pinch could be causing some of your issue. Also may have just enough flex left to be pulled closed more at the pinch when you go WOT. Just a thought....

Holey casting defect, Batman!!!!! Never would've guessed that to happen. I was thinking of the crack the EA-82 heads get up there near the divider between the ports.

Scot (subarubrat) had the 4 speed behind his built ER-27 (XT6 engine) running over 200 HP. He fragged reverse trying to rock the BRAT out of a hang-up, do belive he replaced it with another 4 speed though