TomRhere

Not sure me self, but thinking someone is wanting some "up-skirt Subby porn".

Drop the Mustache Bar down from the outer mount points. Either at the end mounting eyes, or drop the brackets from the frame. Rear diff will pivot down enought to clear tank for removal.

I don't know the 1st Gen's that well, so I can't give you specifics. But your fuel pump is only powered when the altenator is charging, FP is controlled thru the voltage regulator, (could be other things also, I don't know). The set-up relies on gas still being in the float bowl to start engine. If your float bowl is empty, you can either rig a temporary power source to fuel pump, or dribble some fuel into the float bowl of carb. I have an old turkey baster for just such needs. Once the engine is running and there's output from alt, the pump should run.

WOW!! Nice pics there Archemitis !!!!! That is a huge difference in exhaust port size between the two. I can see why the EA-81 has issues with to large of a header pipe now. Small port dumping into large pipe equals way to much turbulance. Exhaust gas flow should be smooth for best results.

Very nice looking BRAT.

I agree that your heater core is suspect. Drain the system and pull both hoses going to heater core and flow some water thru both hoses. Get you some "Mac's Radiator Cleanser" from NAPA, and run it in the system. Directions say for 20 minutes, but you can run it longer if you feel the need to. It's the best system flush out there and it works great. Will it clean every clogged core? Probally not,, but it's worth the time and money spent to try it, vs new core and pulling dash to replace core.

Yep.. The body side of the wiring to the O2 sensor is shielded from it's connector to ECU connector. You should be able to splice new connector onto the body side with no problem, other than making sure you do not have any of the shield wire mixed in with the signal wire. Note: Just so you know.. There are a few "shielded wire" circuits in the harness for any ECU system on these Subarus. All of the shields are centrally grounded within the wiring loom. Therefore, even if you have all of the connectors of the loom unplugged, you will still read continuity to ground on the shield wire of any such circuit.

Welcome to the Board.

Welcome back....

Man, I miss my '73 Pinto 2.3L 4speed, bought 2 of them for $100.00 in '84, made one good one out of both, (sigh). But yeah, driving my '86 BRAT 64+ miles everyday is not really the best for it. Thinking of a newer ride, Wife even thinks so, just not sure on what to get. All of the BRATs will stay, just want "newer" ride, definetly a Subaru, something '02 or newer...

I'll throw out a WAG and say it's fuel injected. So,,, with that assumption. I'll say it's probally related to the CTS or it's wiring, more than likely it's the wiring.

That's the way my BRATs are plumbed. When I 1st got the current '86 BRAT, it would drag the right rear until the clutch was fully released, if I stopped on a hill. Little bit of adjusting, and it's all better now.

Still though, that can just be from condensation... Only way to know for sure if there is water in the oil is to drain it..... IF, you do find water(coolant mixture) in there, you need to flush the oil system out with some Rislone Engine Flush and re-do oil change. Or just do as I do, 1 quart of kerosene with a couple quarts of cheap oil as a flush, then change oil/filter. Anti-freeze itself messes with engine bearings, you need to get that stuff out of there.

Welcome aboard. I have family in Texas. Mom's in Waco area, baby sister is in Pasadena.

Don't assume water in oil just because there's milky looking stuff on the oil fill cap. That stuff will be there mainly due to no real heat or air circulation in the tube to help any condensation to evaporate. You'll find that stuff on just about any vehicle that has a long oil fill tube. Check the dip-stick or drain the oil pan.

Out of the 5 'Rus I've owned, all worked. The old '86 BRAT leaked some, current '86 BRAT worked to good when I 1st got it. I have a couple extra HH valves here, one EA-81, one EA-82. Not sure of differences between them, but if someone should want one, send me a PM.

Your pump may be gummed up from sitting. Try tapping on it, not "beating" on it, while assistant turns key to "on" a few times. That may free it up. Also, check to see if you have power to the pump, check at it's connector. Should have battery voltage at pump for about 2-3 seconds when key is 1st turned to "on".

I've read on here of people taking them apart and re-greasing them. I haven't so no clue as to how much of a job it is. As for a new one, $35.00 and up to maybe $55.00 depending on vehiclemake/model is what I've spent in the past.

Yeah, Crutchfield sells both the wiring and installation adapters. They can also be found at most places that sell automotive sound systems. Not everyone does a neet job of installing them either. "It's outta sight, so why should I care" is what most do. Then they wonder why they have problems later.....

Bowl vent solenoid allows the fumes from the float bowl to be drawn into the vapor canister to be burned by the engine. Shouldn't effect driving at all. Anti-deisel valve will effect driving. Engine won't run if valve doesn't open. Valve shuts off fuel flow with key "off" to keep engine from running on, "deiseling". Check the wiring on the carb for any cracked insulation, that stuff gets brittle with heat and age. No idea what the ohm reading of either should be. But you can check them with a multimeter for dead shorts.

Thanks Skip.... Did about a 5 mile drive in it Sunday, all appeared to be normal. Got real brave and drove it the 64 mile round trip to work yesterday. Seems all is good with repair. Looked back thru the repair log I have on this here BRAT. It's been a shade over 2 years since I did the manifold/Weber swap. So. it made it for awhile before the screws backed out. I'll be digging up another intake and doing some mods to it, then swapping it onto the engine. As I said earlier in this thread, "I really don't want to go thru that again"..

For that 90* hose from waterpump to heater supply line, a Gates 28466 hose will work, just trim to fit. http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/7b2961db.jpg The old hose in that pic is from an EA-81. But I checked new hose against an EA-82 engine here and it'll work on them also.

Two things that come to mind is; Dirt in the carb, Vacuum leak. Either one would cause a mis-fire or backfire due to the fuel mixture being lean.

You don't really "bend" the line, atleast I didn't have to. Just twist the end of it so it points up somewhat, and then the flex line off the caliper attaches to it.

It's not an absolute requirement to use a bottoming tap, but it's advisable to do so. Reason being is the hole isn't really all that deep, so use of bottoming tap will allow for a couple more threads to be cut in the hole. As long as one doesn't over-torque the fastener, it really won't be a problem if one uses a starter tap, (tapered point). Myself, I use both. Starter tap to start the threads, bottom tap to finish cutting them. Starting a bottoming tap by itself in a blank hole is not always the easiest thing to do, especially lying on your back working overhead.