TomRhere

You got some positive and negative going as far as fuel economy. The 4.11 will let engine respond to throttle input faster than the 3.70 will, that's a positive. The 4.11 will off-set some of the power loss of turning those larger tires, that's a positive. As Jerry said, your engine will run at higher RPM with the 4.11 for the same speed as it would with the 3.70, that's a negative. Up to a point, a larger than stock tire can slightly increase mileage, but after you cross that point, a to large of tire decreases mileage. Some positive, some negative there. You may not actually see any change in your fuel mileage under some driving conditions. But on others, like a long highway trip, it may drop. It's all in the positive/negaive and how it all adds up at that time.

It will chew the belt eventually.... If your A/C compressor was mounted to the outside of the altenator, you need water pump for a Non-A/C engine. Compressor mounted inboard of altenator is factory equipped A/C, and takes the longer pump. Longer pump has studs for mounting pulley and fan, shorter pump uses bolts.

I was thinking it would be a dealer only item, but didn't see it listed on the two dealer sites I tried. I just may take you up on the offer to pull one. After posting the start of this thread, I thought of that ureathane motor mount repair, thinking maybe I will try that first, just to see. If it works, it'll save both of us some grunt work. I did have a u-joint go bad, but that was just recently and I haven't drove BRAT much since the 242 mile drive home at purchase time, got about 500 on it now with longest drive being about 65 miles. No vibration/noises on the drive home, but now I have them. Did a rear disc swap when I couldn't get the adjusters freed up. Now, there's a cyclic rumble from somewhere, I can't pin-point it. It's not in time with tire rotation, and it has it's own beat, if you will. I have double-checked rear brakes for anything out of order, nothing rubbing that I can find. Rear axle nuts were not to torque when I removed them, basically finger tight, so I'm thinking the bearings might be damaged. New ones on the way... Purchased and installed new u-joints Friday last, that's when I found the bushing shot. Drove BRAT about 50 miles afterwards, developed a major vibration and deemed it to be from the driveshaft for what ever reason. Pulled a couple u-joints from spare driveshafts and cleaned/re-greased them. Put them in and swapped shaft again, way less vibration. But,,, these u-joints are much looser than the new ones, so maybe it was that the bushing being shot is culprit for vibration before with the new ones. Wife has decreed that "HER" BRAT will be 100% before she drives it. So I'm replacing stuff. Have ball-joints, inner/outer tie-rods on order. PS inner tie-rod has a bit of play, so I'm just replacing all of it. New front bearings and seals are here. New tires are on the list also, got two different brands on it, not good...

The one above the rear diff on the '85 BRAT is shot, as in nothing left to the rubber. Anybody know of a replacement bushing? I haven't found one listed anywhere I've looked on-line.

And it's not always just the sensor. The connector and/or it's wiring can get corroded and that leads to false reading to the ECU.

Yeah, that's what I wanted to do, remove dain plug and flush system. Drain plug "did not" want to be removed, so I opted just to use garden hose and flush system out thru heater supply lines, also used hose to flush heater core. I plan on trying to remove the plug(s) on the '85 BRAT today, we shall see. It's next on the "Winterization List". Got some Prestone system flush in it now, mainly cause it's a new to me vehicle and I don't have much history on it. Wife's '93 Pontiac Sunbird SE convertable is also on the list. Hate doing that one as there's no easy way of flushing system.

Just for gits and shiggles....... Run a new ground wire from engine to battery -, Put a length of wire onto coil + leaving other end free', Start engine normally, Hook free end of the wire you put on coil + to the battery +, See if conditions still occur...... If so,,,, you have an electrical problem. Yeah I know, you didn't mess with that much wiring, but it's "old" wiring, don't take much sometimes......

You can use the MM, a Digital one would be better. You should read battery voltage + - .5 volts when checking circuits. Take a reading of the battery first, then start checking wiring system. With engine running, you should be reading around 13 to 14 volts. A small brad or paper clip is very usefull for probing the connectors. A length of wire with aligator clips on both ends is also usefull for a ground wire on the (D)MM lead. Helps you get around the vehicle a bit easier. Pull the fusible link box from it's mounting and check the connections under it. I have found issues there due to corrosion on a couple vehicles.

Just tried those yesterday on the '86 BRAT. They be 14mm, and they don't like to break loose real easy. DS one is pain to get to....

The one under the hood is a vapor seperator, not really a filter though it does filter the fuel. The one you replaced it with is the fuel filter, which is located just in front of the DS rear wheel. Lots of Parts Stores will give you the fuel filter when you ask for the seperator. They just don't know our Subarus that well, and most of their info is wrong, especially for the years that the EA81 and EA82 were built together. Around here they keep trying to sell me EA82 parts for the '85 and '86 BRATs and act like I don't know what I'm talking about when I correct them. I have managed to convince a couple of the counter people that I do know what I want, regardless of what the listing says it should be. Really hate it when there's a "new guy" behind the counter.....

Does tend to keep the skeeters away for a bit, don't it?

Now there's a LAW I can live with.........

To add to what GD has said; You'll need to lengthen the wires from coil to disty. I would do so on the EA82 disty wires leaving the EA81 wires as is. Coil lead to disty will have to be longer also.. If the EA82 engine has a waterpump mounted fan, I would remove it and not put it back on. Fan blades sit real close to radiator if it is put on, not to my liking... You need to swap the sending unit for coolant temp gauge, and possibly the oil pressure gauge. (Mine didn't have oil gauge sender when I got it, I installed one for the BRAT) My '82 BRAT was purchased with an EA82 engine in it, had the EA81 D/R-4spd behind it using the EA81 flywheel & clutch setup. Frame was not notched, but it was tight in there, about 3/8" on either side, engine to framerail. Definetly had to raise engine to pull valve covers.... Only problem with EA81 flywheel on EA-82 engine is ignition timing marks are in different location on the flywheels and no T-belt marks on EA81 flywheel. One can transfer the timing marks by bolting the flywheels together, crank side of one to clutch side of other. Be sure that you have the crank mount holes properly aligned...... Then mark edge flywheel with a chisel. No need to get carried away with hammer blows, just need a notch at proper location(s). I pulled the engine for a re-seal and found it easier to re-install engine if I loosened the motor mount to engine bolts a bit. Helped to get mount studs thru engine cradle... Be sure to re-tighten those bolts if you opt to loosen them. Also be sure engine is centered between frame rails before tightening the lower nuts on the mount studs. That's about the jist of it...

If it was my car, (or one I was working on), I would replace a ball-joint that had any visable movement in it, period...

By slop, he's refering to an excessive amount of backlash in things like tranny gears, drive axles, and what nots... As for the hessitation, mine does something simular. One particular corner I take on my way to work is usually the only time it does it. If I have to downshift into 2nd due to traffic, it doesn't do it when I hit the gas and take corner. If I take corner while still in 3rd, it'll complain about it, usually just a quick cough if you will. Then again, it may not do it. Thinking it's more to do with actual engine RPM's than anything else. Mine's Webered also.

I'm leaning towards the stuck valve(s) theory myself. When #1 is on it's intake stroke #3 is doing it's exaust stroke. Possible the engine sat in that particular spot of valve timing and a slight amount of rust formed on valve stem, just enough to cause valves to hang a bit. An intake valve stuck at full open position can give you no compression. Exhaust valve may have been just slightly open, hence the low reading on #3. My .02

I have the timing on my Webered '86 set at 9*, seems to like it there. Some of us with Webers had to install a Fuel Pressure Regulator in the supply line to the carb. I did, set at the 3.5 mark. You can get a FPR for $20.00 at most Parts stores. May or may not help... The "Stop Lamp" indicator on the dash has nothing to do with brake fluid level. It's telling you that a brake light is out, or something is amiss in the wiring for the brake lights. Out of the 5 BRATs I've owned, the '82 is the only one that the dash idicator didn't atleast blink at me when hitting the brakes. It is possible the check relay for the brake lights went bad, but I would insure the wiring and bulbs are all in order first before heading for the relay. The relay is located on the rear wall of the cab, behing the trim panel where that small bump-out is, right above the tunnel area of floor. Pulling all of those plastic trim buttons out for panel removale isn't a fun job..... Atleast I don't think so........

The bearing in that idler is replacable. I'll see if I can find the number for it and post back. You might have some "fun" getting the inner race off of the spacer though.

Haven't seen the area of where the nut would be, so take this as just an idea. I have used a length of 1/4" x 1" flat stock, one end drilled and tapped to proper thread, to use where a weld-nut should've been, (or where one broke loose), in different auto bodies to (re)attach items. Steel would need to be long enough to reach bolt hole from nearest opening in body metal. Maybe it would work in the case.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/xt6pic1-1.jpg Not the best pic of them, but those are the 205/60-14 tires you mentioned on my XT-6. It's been converted to coil type suspension. They're Perelli tires. old worn, weather checked, what have you, but they grip good still, or did....

I recall reading a simular thread awhile back. Seems it was something to do with the Range selector/linkage. Got knocked into a "between gears position" during install, lever "looked" right. IIRC....

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49964 This method works well. Beats having to pull entire dash out.

http://subarubrat.com/ Now there's a built BRAT.... Thinking I'd do the EJ engine swap, (if I had engine) rather than the ER swap, but still.........

Check your motor and tranny mounts, pitch stopper bushings also. Sounds very simular to what my '82 BRAT was doing. Slight noise taking off going straight, more noise if taking off and turning either direction. I swapped axles, knuckles, hubs, installed new wheel bearings, ball-joints, tie-rod ends, ect.. Nothing seemed to make a difference. BRAT is now up on jack stands under going major surgery. But when I pulled engine and tranny, the mounts were way soft and squishy feeling. So maybe that was cause, don't know for sure.

According to this pic, http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/gallery/rxbuild/tensioneradjust.jpg it's the idler pulley. Maybe bad bearing, maybe bolt failed or backed out.