TomRhere

I've had that happen on a couple vehicles. I found the cause to be ignition related for the most part. Your muffler looks like a slight grin compared to what the '92 Dakota did to it's muffler. When I say it blew the muffler, I mean it "BLEW" the muffler.....

You'll be better off with the gaskets you ordered, you'll have them quicker. Mailing from Michigan, it would be the weekend before you got them from me. Was a bad day yesterday, so I didn't look for gaskets. I wrecked the Wife's '93 Sunbird convertable. So,,, all bets are off until I beat it back into shape.....

Thanks for the info Turbone & GD. I know only to well how pick-ups like to have the rear bumper out front when you brake hard. BTDT!! Now to locate one.. Wish I had the knowledge of this valve awhile back. I scrapped an '86 Sedan, didn't know of valve. Darn it!

Where would I find this valve on an EA-82 vehicle. Might as well do the job right.

Been 2 weeks now trying to get the rear drum adjusters freed up on the '85 BRAT I just bought. Found no happiness there, even after giving them a shot of penitrant twice daily during that time. No joy, period..... Had way iffy brakes with low pedal, couldn't improve them any by bleeding, but I do have fresh fluid thru system now. Had parts to do the conversion, but rotors were worn and calipers didn't look to appealing. Got better rotors and calipers from john in KY. Yea!!!!! Pulled drum stuff off, put disc stuff on, re-bled system. Gots a good brake pedal now. Did a road test after insuring that things were good to go. Doing 55 MPH and nailing brake pedal pulls her down to a crawl very quickly. I be liking that. BRAT stops with no pull to either side and minimal squeal from tires. Repeated the "panic stop" 3 times with same results. I be a happy camper now. Wife be happy too, as she can now drive "HER" BRAT.

"quote" So nobody in the world can get me a mani-to-turbo gasket seeing as the old one has less than 1/4 left of it on. hahah So THATS why it was slow...was part of the warped head/bad HG problem. "end quote" I may have the turbo gaskets out in the garage. I know I have one of them, I'll dig thru the "stash o' stuff" and see what I can find. I don't have a turbo'd 'Ru, so no use for gaskets. Will be much later today before I get to it though.

Pull the hose barb out of the T-stat housing on the manifold, then drill and tap hole to fit a 1/8" pipe plug. You can then put other hose from heater line onto hose barb on PS of engine block.

O2 lives in the front converter, between where the 2 pipes from the engine attach to it. As far as new vac and PCV lines. You won't find any of the formed hoses, so you'll have to improvise. 5/8" heater hose will work for the PCV hoses. Any Parts Store should be able to match the smaller vac lines as far as size goes.

The wires for the injectors continue out thru the firewall. I'd check the connector for the wire loom under the hood. There's 2 of them there, and I can't recall what color the one you need is, but it'll be the one that the engine wiring loom plugs into.

The BRAT has a shade over 111,000 on the ticker. And yeah, I've always wanted one in better body condition then the ones I've found so far. This one is the ticket!!!!! Spent yesterday wrenching on it. Found reason for clutch issue, the cable was routed wrong. So, I pulled it and installed a new cable. Pulled the seats out, (easier for this one to fit under dash), cleaned the carpet and installed some EA-82 seats I had. They're Blue, but look good against the Tan interior. Rear brake adjusters are froze up, so they're soaking in PB Blaster. I did bleed out the system, and got some air out of both rear lines. Pedal feels a whole lot better now. Didn't feel up to doing the dash swap yesterday, so that still needs doing. I have a pristene Tan dash to go in, need to get some Armor-All on it though. Got a Brown slant-mount radio panel that I'm going to put in, along with a CD head unit. Hey,,, anyone have the Brown shifter and E-brake console they want to sell? Need to replace all of the speakers also. Thinking of not using the dash speakers, just the door ones with some boxed speakers behind the seats. We'll see.... Got the belts for the Fun-Seats soaking in PB-Blaster also. When Jim (86subaru) pulled the belts out of a BRAT in a junk yard, the weld-nuts ripped right out of the floor, so I gotta get the bolts out of those mounting plates.. Yea for road salt....... I did install the headreast though. I need to do some work on the seat mount before it gets welded back in. Also, while doing the clutch cable, I noticed the bolts for the engine x-member weren't the stock ones, Hmmmm????. Reason being,,,, there's a 2" lift under the front-end. Bonus!!!!! Didn't notice it when I peaked under there before. Still need to give her a good bath-n-wax and over-all cleaning. Get 4 new "matching" tires as it's got 2 different brands front/rear, not a good thing... Need to repair the paint from where the topper seal has damaged it. Thinking of stripping the paint in the bed and doing a Rhino-Liner job, this after getting seat frame welded in. Re-install the front skid plate and those side shields. Put the side trim back on on the rear quarters. I did install a gas door, the original one broke off at the hinge pin. Found that the exhaust is custom bent from Y-pipe to muffler, but it has the stock muffler under there. I had only looked under the BRAT from the rear before. Saw a new exhaust system, but didn't really "look" at it. Think I'll swap a freer flowing one in, not sure what yet. I'll get more pics up after I get her looking all purty.......

+1 Also there's craigslist, autotrader, http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/thegreatsubarubratclub/ just to name a few more.

Check the ground for the DS as mentioned, starting with the connectors for that rear light assembly and the assembly itself. The 12 volt W/common ground lighting system can/will cause some very strange lighting functions when ground is lost. Seeing as you removed the lights, I would look at those connections 1st. Even a slight amount of corrosion in the bulb(s) socket will cause issues. Your Hazzard switch is most likely good. Front turn/hazzards won't "flash" do to rears not working. Odd lighting in the rear assembly is due to the wayward ground issue. System is finding it's own ground thru whatever circuit it can.

:slobber: :slobber: :slobber: :slobber:

I'll get more pics in the next few days. But the dash is cracked, and both seats have tears in them, so you can pretty much imagine what it looks like. I have extra seats, and a good Tan dash to swap in. I need to weld the Fun seats back in, along with installing the belts and headreasts. A good wash-n-wax wouldn't hurt either. But yeah, it's a good looking BRAT.

My oldest Son, Robby, and I drove up to Traverse City today so I could drive the BRAT back home. 484 mile round trip. Rained most of the way up, down right heavy at times too. Full-bore sunshine on return trip. Can you say, HOT? No problems on the trip. I do need to adjust the clutch and the rear brakes. But it ran down the road at 65 mph with no problems. Did have a shimmy occur on a couple different sections of highway, but I'm thinking that's more road itself as it wasn't a continuous problem. A couple pics of the BRAT up State, and 1 sitting in my driveway. http://s29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/85%20BRAT/

Looks good........

2 things I haven't seen mentioned of being removed yet; 1. engine pitch stopper. 2. steering shaft flex joint section. Both of those have to be extended when a lift kit is installed. When removing a lift kit, they need to be replaced with stock units. Could be cause of things not wanting to play nice.

Probally bent the radius rod also.

Have you inspected the rear brakes, or are you just going by the noise they are making? Reason for asking is, mine sound like they are metal-metal when they reach the point of needing adjusting.

:clap: :burnout:

Yeah, but us that "sit a little taller in the saddle" need that extra inch or two of clear window.......

Re-torque the axle nut to start with, 145 ft lbs or more. Check your motor and tranny mounts, they could be bad especially the tranny mounts, (bad design from factory). Check for play in both front axles. Only movement should be in/out along the length of axle shaft from wheel to tranny. Some wobble at tranny stub axle is normal.. (from what I've read on here)..

Hmmm.... I run a 17" blade on mine, it's what's listed for the '86 BRAT no matter which parts place I get them from. Ran an 18" snow blade thru last winter. On low or intermitant speed, blade is just about straight up at the top of the swing. On high speed, blade just touches the seal at the "A" pillar, and comes close to the seal on the down swing. Been awhile since I've drove any of the other BRATs I own(ed), but seems to be how those wipers worked also, IIRC....

I have 2 original BRATs, and 1/2 another one in the "parts shed". Owned another Original BRAT too, but traded it for an XT6, not fully original though, as it was swapped to struts VS air-ride. Sucks I can't drive it no more, damned road cancer.........

Follow the wires from the PS fan motor, you'll find a connector. There should be another "simular" connector in that area with wires leading back to the AC relay. Un-plug both of those connectors, and switch positions of connectors. In other words; Un-plug the connector on the wires coming from fan motor, then plug that connector into the one coming from the "main" wiring harness of the vehicle where the wires from the AC relay plugs in. That should get the stock fan working. And yes, you can wire both fans to run at the same time. Although, I would do the PS fan as stock, and the DS fan on a seperate switch, to be used "as needed". I've owned 4 BRATs and never had temp problems running just one fan. With that said, having a "back-up" fan coulndn't hurt.