legacy92ej22t

It looks like it's going to be on Saturday August 21st. We're probably going to meet for breakfast in Lewisburg PA and then head over to Beaver Springs Dragway for some 1/4 mile fun. We are hoping to rent the track if we can get enough people to commit to coming. The cost will be $30 to race but spectators are free as far as I know. I will know for sure soon. We're hoping to have a couple different brackets depending apon how many come to race and the types of Subaru's they're driving. It's all in fun and I want to keep it light but I want it to be fair and close too. So if enough cars show up it will be something like this. Old Gen. Subarus: F/I (turbo) class. This will include DL-T's, GL-T's, XT-T, ect.. N/A class. This will include all O.G. carbureted and fuel injected engines. New Gen. Subarus: 2.2 N/A. This will include all Legacy and Impreza models with the EJ22 2.5 N/A. This will include all Legacy, Impreza and Forester models with the EJ25 2.0 F/I. This will include the USDM WRX and EJ20T conversions and any JDM 2.0 F/I engine. Any Impreza RS-T 2.5 F/I conversions will be in this class as well. 2.2 F/I. This will include the 91-94 Legacy turbo and any other model running an EJ22T as well as any EJ22 F/I conversions. 2.5 F/I This will include the Forester XT, the Baja XT, the new Legacy 2.5GT and any non-STI EJ257 conversions. F/I unlimited. This will include the USDM STI and any heavily modded (280+ CHP) EJ20T, EJ22T or EJ257. This is best case scenario if a lot of people show. Most likely it will end up being a F/I class and a N/A class. So far I think we have 1 EJ18T car, 2 EJ20T cars, 7 EJ22T cars, 2 STI EJ257 cars , 3 EJ22 cars and 2 EJ25 cars. We will have a couple of non-Subaru's present as well. My friend is bringing his Evo 8 and Boostjunkie, who recently crashed (he was forced of the road by another driver) his 300 chp '91 Legacy SS, gets to bring his Celica GT-S. It also looks like we may be getting at least one vendor setting up a booth too. Motor Sport Resources Inc. ( www.msr-usa.com ) is probably going to have a booth and a raffle for some CES Racing goodies like a CES upipe and crosspipe! I'm hoping this grows into a nice sized event so come out and have a great time.

Yes, they are pretty fast and very fun....just not built as well as most older Subarus.

Ya, are you sure it's not 2 cats and a resonator?

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=16072&start=0

Check out http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=14152&start=0 There are a couple of pics of my setup here.

Subiegal said I was REAL close but not quite right so now it's really driving me nuts

There are pretty much 4 main options all of which will require custom compressor to i/c piping(5 if you go FMIC). 1 Get a water to air TMIC from a Liberty/ Legacy RS which you can get either from someone in the states or order from over seas. A few guys are running them and like them a lot. This route will require moving and adding some things. Cost (i'm guessing) around $300-500 total. 2 Get a TMIC off a 93-96 STI. A couple are running these too and really like them. You don't see to many of these sold in the states but you can order them from over seas (mainly N.Z. or Aus.) Easier to install, less stuff to move. Cost ( again guessing) around $300-400 total. 3 Put in a OEM WRX TMIC. Once again a couple of guys are running these and like them. They seem to be a little bit of a bitch to get in but it can be done. They require moving a few things too and guys seem to have a little trouble with the outlet to i/c piping. They can be had fairly cheap on ebay $50-150 so (again guessing) total cost might be $80-200. 4 Put in a Saab 900 TMIC. Now this is probably the easiest, cheapest and most used option. It is not as good as any of the above but good enough for most peoples needs. You don't have to move much and the i/c itself can be had on ebay from $20-80. This is the route I took and it works really well. Total cost about $45-125. I hope this helps. Legacy Central is back up so come check it out. Also check in the parts shed because I think someone was selling their V2 STI TMIC if you're interested.

:boohoo: Ok thanks.

mthomasbarnes@suscom.net =)

Was I right? It's really bugging me.

If you don't have a chain wrench use a strap wrench. Worked for me.

Right on, well I hope whatever you decide to do ( rebuild or new engine) that it goes well. TTYL

hehe I've got dejavous.=) Hey Mang, how you doing? IIRC you don't need to remove the actual units but you do need to remove the belts and one of the tensioners. You'll have to take the radiator fans out too. Take off the crank pulley ect.. If you have a Haynes manual it walks you through it pretty good. If you don't have a Haynes manual I suggest getting one( they're cheap and handy). If you're going to go through the trouble of getting in there to do the belt I suggest replacing the front seals and water pump too and maybe even the oil pump. How's the rebuild coming? Did your heads check out ok?

Ahhh, ok

Just don't change brands of oil. Different Brands use different detergents. When you switch the brand the new detergents can strip the coating on the seals and you can get oil leaks until the new brand can build back up. I personally wouldn't switch back and forth between synth. and dyno though either.

The EJ22T is closed deck and the EJ20G is closed deck, however the EJ22 n/a is open deck and went into production in 1989 IIRC. I think what subyluvr was saying is that the EJ25 is basically a bored and stroked EJ22 which is true. Subaru stopped making a closed deck 2.2 in 94. IIRC the EJ20G lasted a bit longer in the V1 and V2 sti. That may be the engine you're thinking was stopped in 1997? Aren't the new gen Subaru turbo engines, EJ20T and the sti 2.5T (can't remember the engine code), semi closed deck?

IIRC the EJ20G does have the squirters too.

I think a 2 seat spider would be pretty cool. I read an article in Motor Trend about 7-8 months ago that said it was a done deal that a 450 hp F6 TT Legacy STI was coming to the US That would be amazing. I don't trust Motor Trend though.

I actually just did my crank seal, both cam seals and timing belt this past weekend and it was an interesting job. I had to drill mine out. Make sure you have a good strap wrench for the cam sprockets before you start. I skipped the water pump but you really should replace it too if you're going to go through the trouble of getting in there.