SuBrat84

FOR THE WIN!!!! :banana: :banana: :banana: I wasn't sure which one exactly it was. So I unplugged all 4 or five that went up into that area and NO CONTINUITY! Yay!!!!! I am just going to change the whole steering column with this one out of an 86 turbo coupe! BRAAAAAAAAAP!

No.. would it matter? wouldn't the coil still spark even if it was? Or does it spark because of the CAS or something?

You are correct in assuming I am doing it correctly. I have not tried unplugged the ignition switch.. you mean the one in the steering column, right? all this is getting continuity with the solenoid signal wire disconnected and not touching anything as well as a bunch of other things... I hope its a bad ignition.. that would make this whole fiasco so pleasant. (By all the way across.. I meant all 4 terminals.)

There is two wires on the starter. The one from the positive lead of the battery and the one from the key. I call it the starter relay because i don't know what stuff is called. Edit: By the way... I have torn all kinds of wiring apart now and disconnected a multitude of stuff. I am still getting all kinds of crazy ohms readings all the way across the fusable link box.. it's never less than 10 ohms and sometimes in the M ohms range. So... I just don't know what I'm going to do with it now. Edit Edit: Ground wires are always 0 if not very close to 0 ohms. Stuff I think should be no continuity gets mad ohms reading usualy in the hundreds or thousands.

When the multimeter is not touching anything it reads 0.0L. That means there is NO continuity. If I touch the two prongs together on the multimeter it reads 00.0000 with no L. That is perfect continuity, no resistance. The starter is NOT the problem. It reads 0.0L not 0. It is 100% disconnected. Should I be getting ohms all across the fuseable link box like this? Edit: I wasn't measuring the pins on the ecu. I was measuring the wires that GO TO the ecu. (Ecu disconnected completely.)

Okay.. I haven't replace the starter.. but since I don't know what else to do I will do that and see if it makes a lick of difference. The positive terminal on the starter is the only place it seems that does not get continuity to the ground. However, the starter RELAY does. But even with that disconnect i still continuity everywhere else. 1/3 to 1/2 of all the stuff running to the ecu is getting continuity through a ground. I used a seat bolt as my ground. I don't think that much if anything from the ecu should be getting continuity to ground. I tested like this with the ecu unplugged. Battery unplugged. Made sure anything anywhere that seemed like it would matter was not touching anything. Edit: How long would it take me to blow this motor up if i used it as a long block for my RX?

The starter is not what is shorting out. But I will replace it will the loyale one just to be safe. When I ohms tested the started was ZERO L that means NOTHING. When I ohms tested the wires going to the fuseables they were all getting 11 ohms through the ground.. there is a short somewhere and I bet it's under the dash.. I'm going to go dig into it right now.

Nah just some guy on Craigs list. Said he replace everything twice except the fuel pump, which was also bad by the time I got the car. Had a pump laying around. Pumps fuel just fine.. put new gas in it.. hope i get it going before the gas goes stale. I'm just going to tear into the dash tomarrow when I get home from work. I found some wires that had been smashed under something.. so there is potential for a group of wires to be all cut somewhere. I don't suppose you have a link for pin-outs so I can start testing for ..... arrg this sounds tedious. Good night.

With the negative terminal connected, put common in that. No cont on + cable to start. ~11 ohms on all 4 FLs. The last yokul did everything he could think of. I think his original transitor is toast because I can't get a reading off of it. the other two trans are reading over 200k ohms.. the one in my xt6 is reading both ways 26k and 33k the other way.. the xt6 runs. EDIT: It says H ... how could it be an 86 if its man 07/87?

07/87 makes it an 88 right? Oh well I'm giving up. I'll probably just part it out I guess.

I had the cables hooked up to the battery terminals (not the battery ones, but the cars one) and nothing else.. no battery (well, the one in the running car) coil not plugged in disty not plugged in alt not plugged in starter relay not plugged in. none of those shorting out, key off... Only thing hooked up was power to starter, power to fl box, and ground. Starter was getting hot.

With nothing else hooked up except 13.5v from a running car the Starter gets very hot. Is there... what the... oh my... I'm so confused. Please help before I just junk this thing.

At least we're learning something. This problem has nothing to do with the Disty or the way it hooks up. BOTH wires going to the amp thingy are 12v+.. is that right? seems wrong? the only way I can get these coils to spark is because it's allowing 12v+ to flow through it from the amp.. it's shorting out... this is a nightmare. Three of four of a cluster of solenoids under the dash were very hot too... i guess i need to track down this short.

the connector was never wrong. It is in there just how you said it should be. I think the PO took the wire harness off the old disty and put in the new disty to make it be okay... turns out ones of the wires to the amp was starting to break.. it finally broke and I think i will be functional. pending.................

Green/yellow wire = ?????????? Green/Black wire = ????????? Black wire = ??????? Black/white wire = ???????? That is what I need to know. if the harnesses were the same I would be okay because someone DID switch the green and white on the loyale to make that disty work.

The one I just pulled out of a 91 loyale SPFI and it worked in there just fine... the connecters were different though so i swapped the connector from the old disty into the one from the loyale...

These are the wires on the car side of the connect... on the disty side they are solids red, white, green, black

I THINK I understand what you're saying. Even the metal bracket that holds the coil to the body is getting 12v so i think it makes sense.. i hope i hope *crosses fingers*

changed out disty made no difference.. battery started dying so i hook it up to a running vehicle... the coil and starter got HOT. Like don't touch hot. That means it's a short somewhere or what? I got it spark a little bit too.. but stuff started getting hot so fast it scared me. It was sparking through the coil wire.. but more like shorting and not a strong spark. I was getting 12v+ through the coil to disty wire.. is that normal? Edit: PN on the two disty I have are both D4P86-03

Well supposedly it has a brand new disty in it.. but I will mess with it. I pulled every single fuse and they all look good. I will start testing if they all are getting voltage. So I'm going to try disty, ecu, then wiring... I guess. Still open to suggestions and opinions. Thanks again guys.

I hooked up the two connectors under the hood (green and white) turned the key on.. 6 flashes. Turned off. Unhooked. Now am having 11, 13, 34. 11 and 13 are the same? Crank angle sensor or circuit. and 34 is EGR Solenoid or circuit. Does this give anymore clues? Still no spark, tried 3 different coil/amplifier sets in there. Ohms are between 10-11 in the coils.. is that normal? I have a craftsman dmm but I don't know what you mean to test the amplifier? the wiring to the amplifier is getting 12v+. It is actually about a half a volt weaker than at the battery. Would the ecu from a 91 loyale be the same? I am ready to just start swapping parts/wiring from the loyale because it ran but had a clakity motor.

I would highly recommend affording a set of craftsman bolt out tools. They are WONDERFUL. Specifically designed for your exact problem.. they bite into the metal as you loosen the nut/bolt.

1988 FWD SPFI GL I picked up on the cheap because it wont start. Got the fuel flowing. No spark. Code 23. Can't figure it out. Code 23 (Air Flow Meter) shouldn't shut down the spark? How to a voltage test the coil properly? With the key on and the common on a ground.. i get 12v+ on both sides of the coil. Shouldn't one side of that coil be ground and the other side be positive? I.E. I should be able to put common on neg terminal of coil and lead on pos terminal of coil and get 12v+.. right? Doing some reading I think I may have a short situation inside of the wiring somewhere. I can't go look at it right now and after a long time of searching I'm getting too tired. I want some opinions from you guys! Thanks a bunch. Let me know if you need more info I might have left something out.

It's for a '99 Legacy.. it has the outback struts but the legacy springs are worn out. outback springs would bring it up to outback stock height.. but more lift is desired for harsh desert monsoons. renick motorsports is being unresponsive saying it's on back order and they don't know when they will be able to provide it. --MAKE SURE You order the springs for a 99 LEGACY OUTBACK, as that is the struts you have on it now. Does anyone know anywhere BESIDES renick to order the scorpion springs?

I made that mistake one time diagnosing an ignition problem and didnt look at it again until i had half the dash apart.. now i always take them out and "pull" test them I figure checking the f-link is the best first step in tracking it down. If the link is okay then I will go on to test voltage, clean pump, replace brushes, power controller, etc, etc.