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Everything posted by SuBrat84
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Will EA82 Axles Mate With EA81s?
SuBrat84 replied to carfreak85's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I am putting ea82t inner and outter DOJ's on an ea81 shaft, is that what you mean? Because I put a 5 speed w/ rear lsd and 4 wheel disc brakes in my brat. I have to have them made still but I am told they will work just fine. -
southwest meet now in april
SuBrat84 replied to Rooinater's topic in Meet n' Greet. Your USMB Welcome Center
I might have to go in a Jeep if I can't get my axles and driveshaft done for the brat before then.... but I think I could use some good primitive camping. -
EA82- disconnect rear axles for better MPG?
SuBrat84 replied to Andy FitzGibbon's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I think he is more concerned with "drag" than the weight (probably would keep the axles in the back?) I seriously doubt take the rear axles out would reduce your gas mileage. If it did it would be nominal. The differentials would still be spinning... the motor still has to turn just as much crap. Probably would be a waste of time. -
For those of you who remember it...
SuBrat84 replied to WJM's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I could be wrong but didn't he put an EJ22 in there? -
I like it. Now it can do more things that a Subaru was meant to do. Now it just needs some nice on/off road tires!!
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Okay, Having the wheels on there and trying to fully bolt down the suspension I am definately going to need the shorter ea81 shafts with the ea82t DOJs. Hopefully MWE is still offering board member discounts, because I want to have my XT6 axles done too. I think I will bring the driveshafts down to a local driveshaft shop and explain to them what I am doing and just have them make me one that is the same overall length as the two piece shaft. I'm sure the clutch stuff will go alright.. hopefully I can get away with just buying a throwout bearing. The wiring I'm refering to is a few different wires on some sensors on the tranny that come into one white plug.. I just haven't checked if it plugs into the old one from the 4spd or what have you. Jerry told me how much I needed to lengthen the 4wd selector but I totally spaced it. I can cut and weld at my cousins house.. so I just need to know how many inces or cm to add there. On another note.. since I am using suspension components from a turbo hatch I would be able to bolt up the rear sway bar.. however the rear wheel width is a few inches more narrow now. Is it okay to cut and weld on sway bars.. or should I just leave it off since it didn't really have that sway bar to begin with? Same thing on the front.. but there is no body points to bolt the bushings to. Any thoughts? No need for extra anti-sway, huh? I think that covers it
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Thanks.. it's a good checklist.. but I am looking for more specific answers. Good write up here by TheSubaruJunkie.. I didn't need any brake info.. I was just bragging! Thanks for the bump!
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I swear I had some thread or isn't there a write-up on this somewhere?.. and I can't for the life of me find it. I need some clarifications on some things. I know you guys have numbers for me. I just got my tranny all mounted up, thanks Jerry. Here's what I want clarified: Driveshaft length. I know I can use the two piece, but I don't want to weld crap up. I also think a one piece is a better idea. Do I need the part that goes into the transmission from the ea82 driveshaft.. or will the one from the ea81 driveshaft work as well? I need to have it lengthened "x" amount of inches? So it will be a total of "x" amount of inches when complete? (Tubing? Overall? Etc.) 4wd selector length. I got the shifter stuff all hooked up good.. there was actually a bolt there on my 84 brat for the shifter bushing to bolt up to. No drilling required. It is a little tight in the rubber.. but seems to be fine. It looks like I am going to use the stock ea81 4wd selector so I need to lengthen it, I know which part. How many inches? Thanks. Axle Length. Because I am using a 5spd from a turbo I have (25?) spline axles. I believe all ea82 axles are a couple inches longer anyway? I have the axles in now and it seems to be pushing it a little off camber? Should I have the custom "ea81 length" axles made up? Steering Arm Length. Manual steering.. I don't think they are long enough to be properly aligned. How can I remedy this? Cut and weld? Add an inch on each side? Clutch. From what I gather I want to use my ea81 4wd flywheel and pressure plate? And then the clutch and throwout bearing from the ea82t? Is it possible to buy these parts individually from the stealership? (I usually just buy the autozone clutch kit...) I may have everything I need.. but it wouldn't hurt to have a new pp, t/o bearing, and clutch disc. Wiring. I'm sure I'll figure it out.. but does the plug that's on the 5spd plug into the plug that was for the 4spd.. or does it need editing? Starter. Ea81 or Ea82? P.S. I am using the 4-wheel disc brakes and rear LSD from the turbo as well. In your face nay sayers! THANKS EVERYONE!
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Another Abomination Of Our Jumpseats
SuBrat84 replied to Durania's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
LMAO. ahhh hahahaha Seriously that thing looks like death on wheels. -
I love it when they have a check point on the interstate because the upcoming pass has several inches of snow stuck to the roadway (I-5 northern cali) and the officier doesn't say anything to you except "Nice Subaru, drive safe."(98 legacy gt) and you proceed through the pass at 40mph drifting around the noobs going 15mph with their "one-wheeled wonder" and snow chains. Not to mention the trucks... weee haaa:headbang:
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That's too bad to hear you didn't like Tucson. We've been having great weather here too. I don't know what you're talking about those streets.. Tucson is really easy to get around once you've been here for a week or two. It's mostly laid out on a grid except around the military and train yards and the outskirts.. But yeah the roads could use some... repair... Hit me up next time you're down here. I would've at least helped you fix your brakes man! -Eli-
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You may not get a chance to get on here, but either way, if you need any help when you get here or if you get close and need a tow you can call me. I'm in Tucson and would be willing to go as far as Phoenix if you would re-imburse me for gas. I have a subaru compatable tow bar and access to an auto hauler trailer if need be. Best of luck and hope you enjoy the drive. -Eli- 520 891 6828
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It makes sense to me and the way everything works there. The only part I have a problem with is this: My '98 GT had torque bind. Sometimes it will go away as easily as getting the tranny fluid flushed. If that doesn't do it.. it is time to replace seals and solenoids. Prevention includes an aftermarket transmission cooler and frequent (15,000mi) tranny fluid changes..
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It's a pretty easy change. I wouldn't expect a shop to charge you more than 1-2 hrs. for labor. At my local dealership that would be ~$200 ($95/hr) and then they always add "extra" for the parts so.. maybe $250 total to have tranny mounts done at the dealership. Any more than that I would start to be scared. I would do it for $40 + you buy the parts if you were anywhere near me.
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Does a fuse go in the FWD box??
SuBrat84 replied to tlake's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
FWD (putting the fuse in) is used for diagnostics and smog testing. Most smog testing places don't even both though. -
Junk yard 'whole car' policies, WTH?
SuBrat84 replied to SakoTGrimes's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
You'll like Tucson. Money talks and BS walks. I rescued an 89 xt6 that the only thing wrong was the fuel pump and air suspension. Of course it cost me over $400.. but still not a bad deal for a good ER27 and FT4WD s/r w/ diff lock. Sometimes they are having titling issues and they don't actually own the car yet. I don't know about everywhere else, but in Arizona you have to have a dealer license if you sell more than 5 cars a year. Regardless of what condition they are in. Some people just don't want to go out of their way to do something that is "not in their job description." And those people will make up whatever BS to get you to leave. -
I can't believe I just read through this whole thread and no one even SUGGESTED or MENTIONED anyone even LOOKING at their motor / tranny mounts. The tranny mounts are CHEAP. (by cheap I mean they SUCK.) I would guess 90% of you have some rubber going bad. Transmission mounts on a 99 Leg cost like $35 at the dealership. You could probably find after market ones that are better and still reasonably priced. Engines vibrate. The only reason we're not supposed to feel it are those nice thick chunks of rubber. If that rubber is crapped out.. it is going to transfer vibration into parts of the car that you're not used to noticing it. You will first start noticing these symptoms in a forward gear with the brake applied. MAN That sounds a lot like what you all are describing. Give a look at your motor mounts (there should be two) and also at your transmission mounts (Differs by model but usually two as well, plus a wierd extra shifter bushing thingy sometimes too.) Look for cracking in the rubber.. loose bolts/nuts.. missing rubber.. etc. If I was trying to make vibrating go away, and my car wasn't throwing any codes or idling wierd I would start with replacing transmission mounts, followed by motor mounts. If that doesn't solve it I would start looking at crossmembers, CVs, brakes, brake booster, steering components. Remember people.. rubbers don't do anything if they are old and stale!
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Arizona emmisions laws and DMV crap
SuBrat84 replied to SakoTGrimes's topic in Meet n' Greet. Your USMB Welcome Center
Emissions are only required if you live in a city. You will need to establish residence to get your vehicle resgistered. Definately get a 7 day or 30 day trip permit from the oregon DMV. Depending on the status of the title you have.. (maybe you can do title only in Oregon? it is $4 here.) You may be required to have an "out of state" vehicle inspection.. which consists of making sure your lights, signals, etc, is all in working order. Emissions is basically a gas cap test ( to make sure your gas cap is not leaking or w/e) and a hydrocarbon test, and a carbon monoxide test. They recommend you bring the car in warm. (drive it at least 15 minutes before going to emissions.) The standards are fairly lax.. but if your timing is off or a cylinder is misfiring they will hit you for that.. and you gotta have a catalytic converter most likely.. Emissions is ~$12 and if you fail you get like 30 days to try again. 30 day trip permits are pretty cheap here. -
How long has that been going on? And how come I didn't know about it when I lived up there?
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You're very welcome!