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Everything posted by SuBrat84
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New Brat w/ EGR &ECS trouble
SuBrat84 replied to YellowSub's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Sounds good.. I actually just found a motor for the brat... I've been incredibly busy. Probably will call you this weekend. -
Everything looks good.. it's all freshly installed.. I'm leaning towards the coil pack.. i tested for spark right at the pack and it was very weak and intermintant. I unpluged it and stuck my multimeter in the plug.. the one spot that was 12.5 with the key in the on position would drop below 10 while cranking the motor.. (with a live car hooked up for extra juice.) I don't know what kind of single that connector is sending into the coil pack.. but it seems to be okay.. This car was running before I Did that swap.. could the coil pack go bad from sitting for a week? It was supposedly replaced 15 months ago but ~10,000 miles.. so the car had been sitting a lot.
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I like where this topic is going though. Especially brown recluse, which is much like a rattle snake.. their venom has a metallic element that causes necrosis. Thus, the elctro shock. (High voltage, low amperage nuetralizes the necrosis.) However, I have seen penicillin do wonders for dogs that have been bitten by BR.
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Alright everything is in and whatnot.. brand "new" 2.2 from CCR. Everything is hooked up etc... It cranks.. it pumps fuel.. it doesn't start. I popped the wires off of the coil pack and it sparks very intermintently... not like consistant like it should. Would that be a sign of a bad coil pack? Computer not telling it to spark because something else is wrong? Bad computer? Bad sesnor somewhere? CCR put the timing belts on wrong?? I dunno but I've been told.. if I keep on wrenching I'll never grow old. Hey.. I'm delirious. Can you guys please point me in the right direction? Tomarrow I'm going to tear it down enough to get a look at those timing belts.. if that's not the problem.. I will be getting a new coil pack... if that's not the problem...???? Thanks everybody.
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Hey, the struts went good once I realized i had to disconnect the sway bar. Everything is hooked up and looks good. Nice and tall. Courtney is happy with it. It is a little off camber but she is going to take it to a shop for alignment. Motor is in and everything but I'm having problems.. starting a new thread about that. Thanks for the advice. The first BR bite I had was a cpl years ago on my back. I didn't know that's what it was until it was already healed.. it was a month or so before it was pink scar tissue. This one was much more severe and spreading dangerously fast around my knee. On the 7 or 8 day after getting bitten it was the size of a half dollar and just rotting away. I tried the electro shock treatment because I am too poor to go to the hospital. It looks great, I'm sleeping good, barely any pain.. and it's healing VERY quickly. I know it seems kinda loony.. but we used a 1 mile electrical fence box to zap it. You have to do it once right in the middle.. with one lead on the "Back side" of the limb or w/e you got bit. So, one lead in the back of my knee.. one zap to the center of the bite.. 5 more zaps around the perimiter... right as rain.. the pain went away with-in 10 minutes.. with-in 24 hours my body rejected 99% of the dead flesh and now i can already see new flesh growing in the GAPING hole that was left behind.
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New Brat w/ EGR &ECS trouble
SuBrat84 replied to YellowSub's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Good work Marisa!! I was considering getting that one too. Do you have an extra ea81 laying around that is good? -
Depends what motor.. and how much you can find it for. If you get a rebuilt motor from CCR and plan on installing it yourself.. like $3,000... If you can find a good junkyard motor/etc and DIY under $1000.
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Ohh thanks everybody!! Note the part about me being delerious from a brown recluse bite... I hadn't undone the sway bars... i read andyjos (i think) write-up about it.. and found out. Smooth sailing now, all 4 corners are now OB'd. Anyway.. So do I need to order new endlinks? new sway bars? just leave the sway bars disconnected? Cram it on there with the car on the ground? Thanks so much everybody. sorry for being a
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Alright.. well here I am admitting defeat. I can't get the rear struts in.. and haven't got to try the fronts. I took the old one out no problem.. switch the spring no problem.. got the OB strut back in.. it was kinda.. tough.. but now I can't re-assemble the stuff I had to take off to get the strut in.. if I put a jack under and compress the strut enough to where everything should line up the strut pushes the hub away from the "arms" or w/e they are called that the 8" bolt holds everything together. wont line up. Do I need more than just the Strut to do this? Does anyone on here know what they are talking about? (yes, they do.) This was supposed to be a straightforward swap..
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Welcome! There's a few of us in Tucson. There is a thread around here somewhere that we're trying to do a SW meet with some of the Cali/AZ guys.
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I always place my parking brake before releasing my normal brake when putting an auto tranny in park. It keeps the cars from rolling that little bit and putting tension on the park gear. I would rather have my brakes holding my car in place than the park gear. On steep hills I have had friends that their car was stuck in park because they did not set the brake. I'm sorry for those of you who can't see the beauty of being able to control where your RPMS are at going certain speeds. Unless you can show us documented proof that it causes undo stress and damage to your transmission.. I say "It's Okay!" for teh win.
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Priv selling price 91 Loyale Loyale Wagon ?
SuBrat84 replied to guidop70's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I'm confused.. are you looking at one to buy.. or are you trying to sell this one and asking us what we think it may be worth? -
You know damn well I'm downshifting my auto tranny in a curvey road.. I want my rpms up for better control. If I'm lazy around town I'm leaving it in 3 so the computer will still shift it.. but not shift to 4 and bog down around 1200 rpms doing 40mph. If you are responsible with your gears, there is absolutely no problem shifting an auto tranny. You know, no downshifting at 4000+ rpms (resulting in ~6000 rpms in the lower gear)... Even though it is protected by the computer to not let you go above redline it can still be harsh to your engine and tranny, just like a manual. The computer tries to "learn" your driving habits and auto shift patterns. Shifting the auto tranny basically ignores the computer but causes no problems to mechanical components, unless abused.
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Mileage? It could be motor/tranny mounts/bushings, warped rotors, etc.. check for loose strut bolts, loose castle nuts, axle pin missing, etc. As far as the headers drying out the boot.. it is a possibility. On RX's the turbo down pipe goes right by the inner passsenger cv boot.. and without the heat shielding and stuff that's supposed to be there it kills boots pretty quick. You may need to figure out a way to put a heat shield between the headers and the boots.
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Honda 1100 Shadow in Brat bed
SuBrat84 replied to bratman2's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I had a CR250 on the back with lots of room to spare.. and all kinds of junk piled in around it.. you should be okay aas long as you know how to tie down a bike! -
I like that idea! It's a win win situation, in my opinion. I read something the other day that made me more stupid.. thinking that springs wouldn't help lift the car. Do you guys think with the KYB-GR2 OB Struts and Scorpion Springs that the camber will still be okay? Then for even more clearance just put taller tires under it. I know it's more work, but I would like to see how much lift the OB struts add with the stock Legacy springs and then put the Scorpion springs on and measure again to see how much those add. Just for reference.. BTW, thanks for mentioning the Scorpion springs.. I forgot about those..