SuBrat84

Not only will you be putting undue strain on your tranny.. I'm told you should ABSOLUTELY NOT tow something that is more than (50% ?) of the weight of your vehicle. I.E. 2000lbs counting trailer should not be pulled (or rather, attempted to be stopped) by a vehicle that weighs less than 4000lbs. I could be wrong.. but that is the way I understand it.

I'm sorry for the attitude everyone. It's just that I was really really frustrated that day.. and having people telling me "All it's worth is $2600" was NOT helping me any. The WTF stuff was directed more at SVX net where I was getting told even more rudely that I shouldn't expect more than $2600 for my SVX purely on the fact alone that it has 207k miles. Who cares it is rust free with a nearly perfect exterior/interior very well maintained etc etc. How would you like it if someone told you your car was worth half what it should be? And then further insulted you by saying "You should feel lucky they aren't trying to tell you $1500!" Good luck finding an SVX in as good a shape as mine was regardless of miles for $5000. And the reason I'm so upset about it all is I still owe $4300 on it.. The insurance company should at least be willing to pay of my lien. I didn't elect the Gap because my car appraised at $7000 when I bought it for $5000. I can't believe it depriciated 4500 dollars in 22,000 miles of driving.

Yeah, it's an LSi.

Yeah I'm on SVX net.. getting about the same response.. which is funny.. because.. when I bought it in Sep '05 with 185k on it the bank and KBB was perfectly happy with it being valued at 3,775/6,625 (1,225 depriciation for mileage) and my bank and KBB is perfectly happy backing me up that with 207,000 miles my car is worth 3,625/6,475 (1,375 dep. for mileage) that being wholesale/retail ... now the insurance company is saying WITH $1000 depriciation for mileage they only want to give me 2,600. ??????????????????????????????? Dead center of wholesale/retail WITH 207,000 miles is 5,050. SO WTF YOU GOT TO SAY NOW!

So... it's official. The SVX is totaled They are trying to give me ONLY $2600 for it!!!! I mean, granted it has 200k on the odo.. but that is what I would expect to hear if it was a LEGACY or something common!!! PLEASE Help me prove "market value" to my insurance company!!! They are saying it has to be with-in 100 miles of where I live too!!!! I'm soo frustrated by this! PLEASE HELP!!!

Yeah, I've used that to break some tough axle nuts before. The problem I found in the forester was that the lower knuckle bolt was kind of awkward to get a wrench on.. It's all about getting the right angles and then just applying a ton of pressure!

I just did some rears on a Forester.. I have compressors similar to the ones pictured.. but two teeth on one end and just one tooth on the other end. They were just fine. It was pretty easy and only took me about 2.5 hours (pulling up to his house, and then leaving his house) A couple of those nuts that are torqued over 100lbs are a little tough to break..

What about when your ambient air temp is ~115 degrees? It seems to me that would be like saying a Cold Air Intake is just a waste of time? Isn't colder air more beneficial? I don't know how effective an intercooler is.. but it seems to me like if I could drop my air temp 20 or 30 degrees before it hits my throttle body that would be good?

I don't think this is hi-jacking.. but I've been meaning to ask this of the board: Since everyone keeps asking "Can we make that fake scoop on the GT functional?" ... Would it be possible and have any point to stick an intercooler in there.. and install a short ram and have your intake intercooled even though you don't have a turbo?? or would that create some sort of lag?? I don't have my GT anymore so I can't test it out.:-\

I removed the "dummy panel" (Which is actually designed to allow a small amount of air through a couple channels that keep water, etc, off of your throttle body. I had a 98 GT and took the panel out and replaced with expanded steel (see stucco supplies, home depot) allowing a lot more air flow into my engine bay. The expanded steel was there to keep major debris etc out of there. It kept it a few degrees cooler. I'm sure if you were going to use a short ram intake or something (filter very close to the TB) that it would be beneficial to remove the panel. . Sorry, couldn't find any pics of it

Why not use a 360? (If you could find one.) And a GSXR 1000 or RR1000 or something REALLY fast?

I can't answer all of your questions.. but they were available some as FWD and the others AWD (which is full-time unless you put in the FWD Fuse for diagnostics)

Lookin' good.

There is no such place as "inaccessible" in a car if you start taking out stuff... seats are usually only 4 bolts to remove

Loyale: Just like a GL Wagon from the late 80's. 1.8l. FWD/4WD (Not sure if Loyale was available in D/R (Dual Range 4wd)? It is an easy car to work on and very reliable. Legacy: The "new" look for the 90's 2.2l FWD or AWD. Also easy to work on. Also extremely reliable. I prefer the Legacy, I think it looks a lot nicer and also has more space for cargo. I Believe that it being the "new" design also contributes to the safety and better reliability. Probably a 93-94 would be best, but don't limit yourself. Stay away from the auto trannies unless you like spending money at tranny shops:clap:

I would say it depends how good of condition what you have is in? Out there on the east coast you will be more likely to find cars with rust etc.. I'm not sure where Langley is.. Mapquest is telling me there is two in VA. But if I were you, I would see what is on craigslist and autotrader etc for the area you are going to be.. kind of get a feel for the market..

Are you looking to replace the "frame" of the seats that is welded down to the bed? or just the arms (handles)? You *should* be able to get someone to make you new arms and weld them up to the exsisting frame. I don't know how hard it would be to find the whole frame for that.. but it may be kind of tough to re-weld to the bed of the brat, depending on rust etc?

I agree.

This is for sale on Tucson Craigslist.. but I thought maybe it could go in transplants.. http://tucson.craigslist.org/rvs/179847125.html

I don't think it's your amps. It sounds more like it is coming from before the amps.. so maybe the preamp on the deck is going bad.. or perhaps the RCA's are going bad. Are all your ground wires the same size or larger than the power wires? Not more than 2ft long? What size power cable are you using? Fuse rating for the power wire? How good of RCA's are they? Are the outputs on the deck loose at all? Try hook up just one speaker and see if it still hums? Try hook it up to different spots on the amp.. different amp.. How is your capacitor hooked up? Power to cap, power from cap to amps, cap grounded with 2ft or less of 2ga? amps grounded with 2ga?

Does the hum change pitch at all or is constant? Does it get louder if you turn the volume up?

This is the best I can do: (click to enlarge) I took this for someone who was asking about the distance between the front tow hooks.. or something.. I think it's 36 1/2 " .. Anyway, It is how we towed our 1984 Brat from San Diego, CA to Tucson, AZ. The people we bought the brat from used it as a tow-behind vehicle for their RV. I have used this bar to tow a 91 Loyale, 86 Turbo coupe, and even a 1970 VW Bug. Hope that helps any.

Do you have both amps grounded to the same spot? Try grounding them to different spots. How much wattage are you pushing? Have you thought of investing in a capacitor?

Correct me if I'm wrong.. but they are asking about using taller tires, right? So does anyone know if they could use like a 195/70? 80? 90? How tall can it go before it starts rubbing? It will affect the speedo a little though.

I think that the diesel would probably break everything up enough to get it through the screen. That's the point right? To get the build up out of where it shouldn't be?