SuBrat84

I do see the logic behind it. Diesel being kinda oily as it is.. It would definately clean out a lot of built up sludge going on in there. However, I WOULD be worried about the diesel fuel accelerating the wear (deteriorating) of any rubber parts and/or gaskets that it comes in contact with. It seems to me like a couple of our gaskets are cork / cardboard? and sometimes kind of weak. If the stuff that holds our motors together wouldn't get ruined I, for one, would use diesel at a rare oil change.

Uhm.. when's the last time the car had a tune-up? It sounds like you may need new spark plugs / spark plug wires. Air filter? PCV Valve?

You probably have a thread on this somewhere.. but what struts / coils did you use in the front / rear?

Brian

Sounds like you *may* have bent the 4wd shift linkage...

It's either an exhaust problem or a transmission problem. I think it has to do with catalytic converters. But I have heard some jingling noises come from a bad auto tranny before....

I don't think he actually has a 2 PSI drop. He is just worried about where to route that hose INCASE there is a pressure drop caused by the intercooler. And from what I can gather most of you are saying there isn't and if there is it isn't more than .5 psi. Would there be any negative effects of him routing the pressure sensor in post-intercooler to prevent ANY drop in boost?

Do you have a voltmeter or multimeter? Do you know what and where your fusable links are? My preferred method for testing my fusables is to put my common anywhere that is grounded and my positive on one side of the link then the other side of the link to make sure it is 12v+ on both sides of the link. Should be 12.5 with the key in the "on" position.. and somewhere around 13.5 or 14 with the car running. If you don't have a multimeter you can "pull" test the fusable. Even if they look good they can be blown. Take the fusable link out and pull on both ends to see if it comes apart or is still solid. Edit: Check grounds: Check all the wires coming off the negative terminal of your battery. Usually a ground wire is any BLACK wire the ends up attaching to the body (frame) of the car, or the negative terminal of your battery.

That's where it pays off to have a cousin with a mig welder and oxycetalyn(sp?) torches. I can go to his house and braze my own crap. He wont let me use the mig yet though To me it doesn't seem outrageous what you got charged. It sounds like they charged you ~1hr shop time, which is reasonable in that situation. Do you know if they just brazed it up without taking the time to actually remove the exhaust? or did they actually have to take that section of the exhaust out to work on it? If they took it out, that also means they had to replace (hopefully) the gasket there to. Thus, making the work a little more extensive. Even if it was only 15 minutes. The real question here is: Do YOU feel like it was worth that money to have your car fixed up and not leaking exhaust pre-muffler?

You've got my vote for putting in an EJ22. I don't know a lot of the specifics of the differences though. The issues with the EJ25 being bad would be taken care of if you rebuilt the motor. The issue being a poor gasket design that has been since remedy and you can get the upgraded gaskets in there. Do some searching on here, there is a lot of literature about the Ej25 head gasket problems. You would have a very reliable motor if properly rebuilt. Just my .02.

my svx fuse box says to use a 10. I usually go 15 though.. because that's what my Legacy said it was.

I found some pretty nice wheelin' up on St. Helens. it was when they had a pass closed due to snow.. so some good snow wheeling.. deepest mud/water/ice i've ever been through and made it was up there.. good times were had by all.

I think the word you're looking for is CRUMBLED .. but they are both words.

Wow... "Subarus" in space.

Speaker size is measured by the diameter of the cone i believe. If the "frame" diameter is about 4 1/2" then your speaker is probably a 4" speaker. But 6 - 6 1/2" should fit in there just fine. Edit: Duh, you measured the guard, not the frame. I'm going to go with your front speakers likely being 4" .. but could be 6" ..

Geez Brian, I hope you didn't keep everyone at that creek for TOO long! Just kidding, that looked pretty rough. Your hatchy will do even better, eh?

and it never hurts to use some ultra copper on the gasket when you put it back in.

DONT FORCE THE NUTS OFF THE MANIFOLD STUDS! I have had so many studs get stripped, heads get stripped, bolts come out of the head, blah blah blah... if those nuts dont break loose right away and turn easily, you need probably an impact gun or something.(Edit: don't use an impact gun on your aluminum.) The head studs ARE replacable if the nuts are stuck (rusted in place) .. you just have to be very careful about taking them out of the block, because the studs are hardened and the head is aluminum. I can see where the shop guy wouldn't do it, because he is a wuss and is afraid of stipping out your heads. I don't blame him though... messin' up an exhaust job and having to buy and replace someones heads is way expensive.

I was under the impression they "fixed" that problem 6 or 7 years ago.

Well, hello. First things first. Engine codes are as follows: EA81 - 1.8l early 80's OHV EA82 - 1.8l late 80's OHC EJ series; 18, 20, 22, 25 <-- 1.8l, 2.0l, 2.2l, 2.5l 90's and current. ER27 - 2.7 (6 cyl) late 80's early 90's XT6 motor EZ30 - 3.0 (6 cyl) used in outbacks/tribeca etc EG33 - 3.3 (6 cyl) mid 90's SVX motor I'm sure there is more Subaru motor codes.. yeah like ea71 and ea61 and stuff.. but you get the idea. Some of these are also available in Turbo editions. The 96-99 I believe the EJ25 was notorious for having a head gasket issue. Generally if the headgasket has been properly replaced they are good to go. Otherwise they start going bad around 50k depending on driving style and care. I have heard of EJ25's of that time period making it 200k with no problems. It's all about how you treat your car. If it was me.. I would try to find a 97-99 w/ a 2.2 and then just get the "GT" (for legacy) or "RS" (for impreza) body kit. and then if I'm rich enough I would get an EJ25T(turbo motor) and driveline out of an '06 STI. Edit: Some common issues include torque bind cause by failing couplers or clutch plate (in autos) which is caused by uneven tires (air pressure, tread depth, size, etc) or poorly lubricated stuff. Fluid changes are important in Subarus. I think if you want a 2.5 RS you should try getting an '01 or newer SOHC.

How often do you change your oil? It could be your lifters getting sticky. It could also be that you are developing an exhaust leak. Just a couple ideas for you.

RockAuto .. you're likely to get some "cheap" and/or "generic" Maybe you guys have had some success with them.. but IMO rockauto SUCKS.

I don't think they could EVER make brat jump seats illegal. That would be like making 360's illegal to drive around because they are two-stroke. There's factory seat belts back there.. so it only gets illegal as "no seatbelt" violation. They always have been and always will be legal passenger seating, no matter how much he rubs it in at court

Looks good B! Let's go run over some trees!!

Sounds like the River would be a good place for a SW meet.