SuBrat84

I was going to say it kinda sounds like it is not firing on one cylinder.. or firing out of order. It could also be a radiator fan going south.. I have had radiator fans that shook the living hell out my cars. If you would like me to take a look at it and see if we can narrow it down a little bit, I don't mind. ( elijafir@cox.net ) -Eli-

lol. We don't know about any clubs or anything. But my fiancee and I love Subarus!! We drive a 94 svx and have a few other projects... We always like meeting Subaru people around here.. it's kinda rare!

The hill-holder is probably more trouble that it's worth.. but If you're into that kind of thing.. you will need the hill holder cables and stuff too..

Sounds like your brakes are getting low.. probably the rear pads but you should change all four. As for the rattling it kind of sounds like you may have gotten your catalytic converter or reasonator pipe hot enough to get some stuff starting to go loose in there. That kind of noise needs to be tracked down better to determine where it is coming from.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=45000 There's a little info here on this exact swap that I did. You don't need the driveline, because you're doing a FWD swap. You don't need the instrument cluster if you don't care about having your old auto indicators up there still. Everything else you need. By shifter linkage they mean just actual gear shift lever and everything that attaches it to the transmission and body and stuff. Like it says in my post, I got everything I needed (including a back-up cpu, which I didn't use, for $150 at my local u-pull-it) I used: Tranny, Flywheel, Clutch, Pressure plate, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, starter, pedal assembly, speed-o cable, cross-member.. basically everything ATTACHED to the tranny (save for the motor of course) and the pedal assembly and shifter stuff. It's fairly straight forward... I was doing this completely by myself and spent about 12 hours total. If you go to a pull a part.. when you walk up to the counter with all the parts.. be like "What kind of deal can you guys give me on all this stuff?" ... tell them something like "My buddy got all this exact same stuff from a different yard for like $120." I told the guys at my yard "This is how much I can afford to spend, sorry." When I started to walk away without the pile of parts they didnt know what car it came off of they dropped from $200 to $150 like it was chump change. Anyway, good luck. -Eli-

Hey.. I know exactly what your problem is. I had it happen in my 6 disc changer. There is little plastic gears in there.. that inevitably break. I took mine apart to investigate.. and when I saw the broken gears I just gave up. I would imagine a small electronics repair shop maybe could fix it. I don't know how common the inner parts are however. I forget what brand the stuff is.. but try to find a stereo repair shop that would be familiar with that brand of equipment.

Well, the way I understand it.. a manual steering rack is a little easier to control than a power steering rack that has failed. My power steering is working on its way out. My SVX has 207k on it. I have always prefered manual steering over power anyway. To me it feels more precise. Sure power steering is nice and easy.. blah blah.. but if you know how to use it, manual steering is way better. Besides, I never have to parallel park in Tucson. When I get the RX going again.. I wanted to take out the Power Steering and AC, and some other weight reduction stuff.. gonna try to make it a rally racer.

I have heard a few stories of "less than satisfied" mechanics purposely leaving tools or weird crap in some weird spot to make an annoying noise like that. Probably not what you have going on.. but you never know. Get a passenger.. go to a road you know it will make the noise.. and get your passenger to start trying to pinpoint the noise.. start pushing on things to see if it's loose stuff.. maybe bring a long screwdriver or something to use as a stethescope(sp?) .. or perhaps if you have a stethescope. Good luck pinning down your annoying noise.

I would definately be interested in this. Power steering is a waste of power. and fluid.. and weight.. maybe?

From what I understand on the subject, you will also need to use the xt6 (or maybe an RX) transmission to be able to withstand the added hp. I'm not sure about an 85 wagon.. but in a brat you have to relocate the radiator. There will be some fabricating involved.. and possibly some cutting. You'll need ecu, wiring, etc. It's really all about time and money. People have put those motors into Brats, Loyales, etc. So you should be able to get it into your wagon. Let's see pics and a write-up if you go for it!

Don't worry. Passenger was taking the picture.

Get your title and registration out... it should say on there. If not on there, there is definately some proof you can find that the Brat with jumpseats was imported as a 4 passenger vehicle and it is completely legal to have passengers back there. Maybe try getting a hold of SOA (Subaru of America) and see if they can send you some paperwork proving your case. Just remember to submit all of your evidence with-in the proper time periods. (Though, you probably haven't even been to pre-trial yet.) Definately NOT GUILTY on this one!

Do you have the ea82t / d/r tranny car? You'll definately want a donor car for this swap, as I'm sure you'll need the ecu, wiring, etc. I know if people can put an er27 (xt6 motor) into a brat.. that an ea82t shouldn't be that hard. I say, if you got a brat shell and a donor car.. go for it. If you run into any hang ups.. come here and start asking specific questions!

if you got the time and money yeah.. from what I understand it takes some fabricating to make a new spot for the tranny mount... I think there has been a couple people here done it.. try searching..

Or perhaps a different ECU?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_360 Subaru 360 From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Jump to: navigation, search Subaru 360 Subaru 360 Convertible as shown in Pokémon The Subaru 360 was the first automobile mass produced by Fuji Heavy Industries' Subaru division. The 360 was produced from 1958 to 1971. The 360 featured an air-cooled, 2-stroke 356 cc engine mounted transversely at the rear. The engine was designed with a capacity of less than 360 cc so that the Subaru 360 would qualify for Japan's keicar class. The body was of monocoque construction and featured a fiberglass roof panel, which was considered very advanced in 1958. When introduced in 1958, the 360's engine turned out 16 hp and Subaru claimed 66 mpg fuel economy; by the end of production, power had increased to 25 hp with a 36 hp twin-carbureted engine as an option.

Sounds like you have a speed limiter in there. My mom had a '95 honda accord with a limiter that was set at 114. My dads '00 Silverado wont go triple digits.. you can hit the speed limiter in 2nd gear. (99mph) In his truck it cuts and will slow down to 96mph before u can "give it gas" again.

Is that MAF stock or did you get the Z (32?) MAF and chip?

lol.. the speedo always worked fine after that.. I've had it pointed nearly straight down, before my fiancee totaled the car. Always worked just fine.. with-in 2-3 mph of what those cop speedo boxes said.

Me likey. Let me just add that to my "To do sometime in my life" list.

What transmission is in it? Is the 96 GT a 2.2? I had a 98 2.5 GT that would do well over 112 (Like 140) all stock except for rear sway bar upgrade and a rear strut brace. It was a 4spd auto. Anyway.. what I'm getting at is.. what RPMs in what gear is it doing this at?

I had a homie that had his car "professionaly" (Audio Express) dynamatted for his system. It rocks to eliminate rattles and improve sound quality. I always wonder how it is on weight? Those 12 pieces you used.. do you know how much each one weighs? or the total of all 12? (I always thought it was Dynomat) lol

Yeah.. driving around on different size tires for a while will probably mess some things up. If we could get a couple more opinions on what specifically, we'll go from there. So everybody, what part of the AWD system gets damaged when you drive around on wrong sized tires?

Hey, I noticed you're in Tucson. If you would like a second opinion about what is wrong with it, I would be happy to look at it for you. I am fairly familiar with the torque bind issue as I had it in my 98 GT (auto) and am now getting in my 94 svx. Typically 5spd doesn't get a torque bind.. and sometimes is fixed as easily as putting new differential fluid (gear oil) in. However, if it is too severe it would require something along the lines of a new rear differential, or coupling unit, or insert part here, etc. If it needs a new transmission or a transmission rebuild you could be looking at anywhere from 800-3000 dollars.

I was in my green '94 SVX turning into my driveway on Lee St at 8am this morning. You were going west in the light blue XT.. or XT turbo but i didn't see any decals for that. Wanted to chat, but it's early and I'm tired and didn't know if you were in a hurry somewhere. Just wanted to say nice car and see if this person is a member on here. Anyone know who it might belong to? Well that's it. jess