SuBrat84

The two "live" wires need to be on "opposite" ends of the switch. So when you flip your switch to "4wd on" it sends the "on" signal (sorry i dont know which color is on) down the wire that has no power (white?) and when you switch to "4wd off" it sends the "off" signal down the wire.. sorry if that doesnt make a lot of sense.. my hands hurt

Yes. My 94 is horrible. It got worse after i ran 100 octane in it. now it does it at idle and anything below ~2500 rpms. It used to do it just under 4k rpms.. I'm not 100% on this.. but I think what it is, in the cat converters and / or resonator pipes there is stuff coming loose.. so it's kinda like a metal rattling noise that is affected by how much exhaust pressure there is. i intend to gut my cats and resonators to see if this fixes it. Another slightly more expensive option would be new exhaust. Again, I am not POSITIVE this is the problem... it could have something to do with exhaust valves or ????

Hey, this has nothing to do with my skills as a cook! Actually, I cook bacon and eggs quite well. What happened was.. I was doing a clutch job.. and one of the turbo-downpipe bolts snapped when I was trying to loosen it.. So, I had a small turbo exhaust leak there.. We were visiting in Phoenix for the weekend of Jessica's Great-Grandmothers birthday. I got a call from a friend who was stuck out in the desert and injured.. We were going to fix the exhaust that morning.. but instead I took off to go "save" my friend.. well the 100+ degree weather and me doing about 115 down the freeway just couldn't take it. It never seemed to over heat.. the gauge got a little hot.. a little above half way.. then went back down.. maybe a sensor busted or something. Anyway.. it got hot enough that a few hoses and the timing covers literally caught on fire. Lucky I had a 5 gallon water jug full of ice water to throw on there So I saved it from burning.. I'll try whackin those springs and whatnot to see If I can get them moving.. but if I can't.. I'm just probably going to wait until I can afford a rebuild and put on my td04 and intercooler etc...

Timing. I assume you had the timing belts, etc. off to do this job?

I'll get in on it. I have Six now. 94 SVX runs... needs some minor work.. damn expensive 91 Loyale Freebie.. somethings wrong with it, but it runs and drives... but not for long if the problem doesn't get fixed.. it's down on the list a little bit. 89 XT6 runs strong.. causes back injury to drive. (no air in the air susp) 88 RX ran great until I caught it on fire.. workin' on it though. 86 T-Coupe (RX without the body kit or Full-time. still D/R w/ rear LSD tho) Freebie, drastic engine problems... water comes out of everywhere. Might end up using tranny etc on --- 84 Brat kinda runs but is leaking water into the passenger side valve area.. which in turn becomes steam and steam in the system is bad, mmmkay? May use 86 as donor "beef up the Brat" project.

By lifters you mean.. the thingies that the top part of the rocker set on? They are all sticking out the same.. it is definately the springs that is the problem. I think I'm just going to have to wait until I can afford to tear it down and rebuild it good. It is still rebuildable, right?

Yeah I caught this motor on fire. It seized the cam on the 1-3 side. That spring I believe is the valve spring.. the one the rocker pushes "Compressed" when the cam lobe pushes the rocker. The front one on both sides is "Compressed" so when the lobe is not pushing it the rocker just falls out. Also.. on the 1-3 side.. the next one in from the front makes a very loud clack when the spring gets compressed. Im doomed..

You can check for spark by pulling the wire off of the coil and seeing if the coil is making a spark if you hold a plastic or rubber handled screw driver near it. If you have a multimeter you should turn your key to on.. hold the common on your ground wire or negative terminal and test each side of the fusable links with dc voltage should be about 12.5V.... check all of your fuses under the dash too..

in my 94 svx the low fuel light used to come on around ~5-6 gallons left (if you can believe that!) It has an 18 gallon tank.. and when the needle hits "E" I have 4 gallons left. Then for a while the light was on ALL the time unless I was almost out then it would go OFF. Now it doesn't work at all but the gauge still works fine. I know it just adds to your mystery.. but there ya go.

Sorry to start a new thread about this.. but I need help, like now, before I set the RX on fire... ea82 Turbo MPFI 5spd etc etc So I managed to get my cam towers back on and stuff.. well the spring (on both sides) CLOSEST to the FRONT of the car are staying compressed and allowing the rockers to just fall out.. Why would it do this? How do I fix it? I had the motor running for about 3 seconds (mmm oil sprays EVERYWHERE when you start it with the cam cover removed.) Anyway.. not even having it running uncompressed those two springs.. I'm getting to the point where I'm just going to leave those two rockers out and drive it til blows up. a big WTF? on this one.

Not that it matters anymore. If those front springs are staying compress does that mean my engine is f'ed and I'm going to have rebuild.. or what?! ARRgg this is getting frustrating. Just to clarify things... when you put the timing belt on.. is it Flywheel in the center of the three lines (not the timing degrees) and passenger side timing dot down drivers side timing dot up? or is passenger side up and drivers side down? or does it matter just as long as they are 180 opposite? Maybe getting some spark on there and getting it to fire a couple times will push that spring out?? Edit: Disregard any timing belt questions, I just read a write-up on it.

For the win! Thanks Shawn. I guess you're not familiar with desert heat, or you would have told me to throw the rockers and vaseline in the freezer for 5 minutes before I did it... That stuff is SLICK when it's hot! One more questions.. the spring closest to the front of the car on both sides is compressed.. I had to turn both cams with the dot to the right so the cam lobe holds the rocker in place.. if i move the cam the rocker tries to fall off.. at what point of putting this back together will I be able to get that spring to uncompress so I can move the cams to up and down to put the timing belts on. On another note.. I set the crank/flywheel to the center of the 3 lines.. left side up, right side down, which way do I point the distributor when I put it in? Thanks guys!

Do you know where the motor stamp is? Anyway.. you should be able to use any tranny out of an EJ20, EJ22, EJ25, EZ30, or EG33. You wouldn't want one off of an EG33 though.. those SVX trannies were prone to failure. Pretty much any transmission newer than 97 or 98 should bolt right on. It would take a little extra work to do a 5 speed swap. If I'm wrong on any of this someone please correct me!

Mmmmm grease.. I didn't know if that would be okay to be putting grease in there. Thanks for the terminology

Okay so.. I'm really starting to think you have to have the motor out for this job. I got some "Right Stuff" gasket maker.. and am trying to put my cam towers back on.. but I can't for the life of me figure out how to get those rockers to stay in place. Anyway.. near as I can tell... it would be a good idea to have the motor out, and tip it sideways so the cam towers go on horizontally, thus gravity holding the rockers in place? Tips, Tricks, Suggestions? Edit: 88 RX DOHC 1.8 MPFI Turbo FT4WD DR 5 Speed

Makes me wish I had a machine shop.

I'm glad everyone is okay. No offense to Mike, but he should have gassed it. In the video it looks like he thought he was going too fast and hit the brakes...(notice She says "You were on the brakes, weren't you?") Good looking crash.. amazing it didn't actually roll over. It does look like he came into that corner a little hot though. Is that guy in the orange shirt 'Jimmy' from "Yes, Dear"

too bad the smallest ones for "trucks" add 1300 pounds to your vehicle. The "Litefoot" for atvs would be nice to adapt to a Subaru, I think. With a weight of ~100 pounds per track, they wouldn't be too heavy. However, with a Recommended Max. GVW of 2,500 pounds.. it might not be strong enough, unless you use some weight reduction techniques? And with a ~max speed of 40 mph.. you could probably crawl just about anywhere in low range. I can see pros and cons.. definately a lot more beneficial if you lived in snow etc.. Edit: You know you wish you could drive up a 22" curb or over a 12" round log (telephone pole) Edit #2: I had to do this... You know you love it:

Fincastle is just north of Roanoke..

Of course! And to anyone else that may be interested in working something out.. I wouldn't expect you to pay for my food. I have a cooler and know how to shop.. food is cheap.. and if I get anywhere near WV I can hit my parents up for food too. I would hate to see this one go to a yard.

Well I'm not planning on it... and it would be a bonus to be able to take my girl with me, but not a requirement:cool: .. how far out of the way would West Virginia(my parents) be? I would LOVE to do something like that... I just can't really justify spending any of MY money on it.... (sending pm)

If you paid $150 for it.. how much do you think it would cost to get it reliable enough to make the drive out there? How much gas would it take? Would you buy me a train ticket home? Just a thought

the woman of the house said "We're not getting anymore Subarus that have to be TOWED" Awww man.

find out where? that is so very tempting. I could at least go look at get more pics.

I'd never paid that much attention that a computer converts to DC. That is cool. I have an extra power supply sitting out in my yard.. I like the idea of it being a component tester. I just thought it would be kind of a bonus if something like that plug i could use as a free battery charger or in a "home" - "car stereo" system like they do in the stores that sell the junk. Thanks for the input thus far. Very informative. INPUT!!!