SuBrat84

Most the literature I've seen on it says 15A fuse.. which works just fine. 20A would not hurt it though. Just pop it in there and when you start your car there should be a "FWD" light on your dash that comes on.

I had the same exact problem in my 88 RX when I was running an amp and some subs w/ a blaupunkt deck.. cutting out.. like it was over heating or something... I installed it all in the honda wagon and it works like a champ never distorts or cuts out or anything. I am 99.99% sure it is the "remote" wire. Instead of trying to wire it to whatever.. try wiring your "remote" into the wire that runs 12vdc to the stereo when the key is turned on. (not the hot wire that is always on! you don't want your amp on if your car is off) I think it's the Yellow one? or maybe Red? if you have a multimeter you can test to see which one is the hot and which one is the ign. Hope this helps.

Tested it: 0.150 amps if it matters.

???????????????? It's an over-ride relay. There is no fuse in it. Putting a fuse in it activates the circuit and as I understand it provides 100% power to the Duty C Solenoid thereby disabling AWD and making your car FWD for diagnostics purposes. This is only on AUTO trannies. (I think.) It is usually located near the firewall in the engine bay passengers side like pictured above. Or as mentioned in newer models has been moved into the fuse box. So, check your fuse box areas and all along your firewall (inside the engine bay, nearest to the cabin area) maybe the little black cap that says "FWD" came off or something? Look for a place where a fuse could go that's not in a fuse box.. and this is probably your FWD activator. Putting it on a switch would have made people think it is an option to be in fwd rather than a diagnostic.

Yeah.. what ever happened with this car? I know I'm curious!

Okay.. So. I have this AC to DC adapter that the cable company gave me as part of a set-up in an attempt to "Boost" my signal power or something because they don't know why my highspeed connection is a POS. Well I took the thing off and it didn't make any difference. If anything it works better without the thing. Anyway. It plugs into your standard 120 plug in your home. Then a standard Coaxial cable plugs into it, then the other end plugs into this little box that is the "booster" .. Well After pulling it through my block wall the box end popped off. (Yes, I unscrewed it off the box. Just the little "Nut" popped off.) I was looking at it and the "transformer" said Input: 120 Output: 12v DC .. DC? Like Cars.... So I put my multimeter on it and it is putting out a very steady 20.3VDC. What I'm getting at here is.. would it be okay to splice the coaxial cable onto a set of jumper cables and use it as a battery charger? Would it be dangerous without some kind of regulator? Can a car battery get "too full" or will it just stop taking a charge once it's "full" ? Would I be able to use this theory to install a car stereo in my home? Thoughts? Ideas? Complaints? Rants? Let's hear what you have for me!

the standard ea82 trannies are a little weaker, but will bolt up. Since you're going turbo you want a tranny off a turbo (rx) or from an xt6, but I don't think the xt's got dual range.. Try to get an RX tranny and rear diff.. I think this would probably be best for what it sounds like you're trying to do.

What size H6? If it's the 2.7l you're going to want a full-time 4wd d/r w/ rear lsd off of an RX type.

I made this same mistake in my 98 GT. I later discovered one of the plug wires had a "weak spot" in it and was grounding out on the intake manifold.. (I got shocked by it.) It was an auto though, so it didn't buck like you are describing... more like stuttered.. but same symptoms.. Find a multimeter, or goto autozone, take your wires out and test them. I don't remember what the ohms should be at.. But they should all be with-in the same range. Check your differential fluids... and maybe tranny mounts... Edit: (this was at about 60-65k miles on the original wires...)

You're not talking about the rubber vibration dampeners are you?

REALLY? Hmm.. My friend who drove my stock SVX w/ 200k+ miles said it pulled harder than the Tribeca he rented. (I got to ride in it.. ) Maybe it's a weight thing.. Anyway, back on topic... sounds like it would be a bit better to go with the 3.0 in this case.. for parts and probably tuning as well.. and definately for fitting it in there. It takes me 1/2 hour just to change the plugs in my svx

I think it would be a pain in the arse to try and cram that motor into that engine bay. Probably some cutting required.

You definately have a something rubbing something that it shouldn't be issue.. I have put those shims in wrong and makes a noise like what you're describing. It could be a tiny part of a shim or possibly the backing plate that was mentioned rubbing on your rotor. Can you properly support the car off of the ground and let all the wheels turn to try and pin down the noise? Or even better, let the hubs turn with the wheels off. Don't try this unless you can PROPERLY support your car. It might give you more clues if the noise goes away with the weight of the car not being on the suspension, etc. I would think you could probably make the drive, if you can put up with the grinding.

The wires is a real good suggestion. My first impression was injectors. Good luck.

I picked up an xt6 that had a "pin-hole" leak in one of the return lines near the tank so it was real hard to find but I was loosing fuel pressure right there (not to mention fuel!!!) Check your fuel return lines to see if maybe there is a problem.

Do they have little refridgerators that you can plug into your cigarette lighter? If not I better be getting some $$$ for this idea!!!

I ran a tank of 100 Octane from 76 (BP Racing Fuels) in my SVX. It ran a little smoother, more quiet, and a little cooler (noticable on the temp gauge) I didn't notice any effect on my gas mileage or performance however. It was not worth the $5.50 per gallon that it cost (in December) but also I wasn't paying for it. Edit: The noise my exhaust makes is now any thing below 2k rpms instead of up around 4k rpms... may or may not be related to the gasoline. More likely related to my driving habits.

Sounds like maybe you're having a clogging up pcv system. i would replace the pcv valve and check associated hoses for gumming up oil deposits and build up. Also it would be a good idea to be check for maybe a vacuum leak.

aww man... they never do anything like that down here. I wish it wasn't a 15 hour drive up there or I would go for SURE.

Oh man. I should have asked that question along time ago. I have the cam towers off of the RX because I seized one. I have since purchased new to me cam tower assemblies.. and have not put them in yet because I was going to order the whole gasket kit and do the headgaskets and everything because I am putting td04 into it... ANYWAY... I didn't know I could just seal it all up with Ultra Grey like that!!! I don't think the HGs are bad in the rx... mmmmmmm rx....... i can just put it back together stock and see how it runs... mmm ultra grey.... mmmmm rx.... loyale.. what loyale?

Am I allowed to do that with cam TOWERS too? Or do I need to get the gaskets for those bad boys?

In addition, the oil pressure was real low at idle (~15 psi) but would increase with the rpms up to ~45 around 4500rpms. I'm guessing this being the problem. Should I do the intake manifold gasket as a part of this job? I think maybe I would like to do the cam cover gaskets as well as the pcv valve. and a good tune up.. replacing bad hoses etc also. INPUT!!!!!! (Thanks!)

Okay. After it cooled down I started it back up and it was idling okay for about 10 minutes. The hotter it got the higher the idle got until it hit about 1200 rpms then it seemed to level off. Obviously it gets hotter from driving it, as after I drove it was idling at 1500rpms. I was spraying the car off.. and when I went to spray the engine bay it choked and died. I think it sucked water somewhere? I was able to start it back up and let it continue idling. The electric fan was not turning even with the AC on. I need to test the circuit/fan etc. Will the elec fan always come on with the AC in the Loyale?

Tabs? Do you mean Tags? Hell.. I live in Tucson man.. I could be driving around in a cloud of smoke and not get pulled over. This place is almost Mexico! Plus, in my quiet little neighborhood there is never any cops. I'm not driving it on any major streets or anything.. just around a normal neighborhood block where the streets are like 1/8 or 1/10 of a mile apart. Of course once it gets running I will have no problem spending the 12 dollars for emission and the 17 dollars or whatever it will cost to register and license it.

I was going to ask if you have a roof rack.. and suggest that may possibly be the source of the noise?