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SuBrat84

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Everything posted by SuBrat84

  1. Well... the best I could do was add one quart of 10w40 to top it off and use water as coolant. I got it going.. had to use a different radiator and alternator. Both were bad. Rad had several core holes. Alt no charge. But I got it idling and let idle for a while.. though rather poorly @ 200-300 rpms. With the idle that low I had to very carefully feather the gas to get it to pick up without dying. But once it goes above 1000 rpms it is sweet. It seemed to be where I wanted it to test drive it. So we took it around the block twice. Well it got a little hotter than I thought it should be (about 1/2 way up gauge) so we came home and parked it. After driving it the idle stayed above 1500 rpms no matter what I did. It also SLOWLY was getting hotter. I shut it off when it was about 3/4 of the way up the gauge. Input everybody? Thanks. Brian- I had it up at operating temp and took the cap off to check for bubbles... but when I started it up all it did was start chugging mass amounts of water out of the radiator. Is that bad? Oh yeah.. Power Steering needs some serious work on this one.. :-\
  2. Thanks for the input guys. I can tell the belts are not original as they are a really new looking Goodyear belts. I think the guy tried to do a timing belt job on it.. got it one tooth off and decided it had a blown head gasket? It definately did not look like there was any kind of slippage though. Here's a good question: Can the tension of your timing belts affect how your engine runs.. or does it just have to be on the right teeth and "tight enough" ???
  3. :cool: So I got this 92 Loyale... for free ... and they said it had a blown headgasket.. and they had taken off the radiator and stuff. Anyway, I have all the parts.. and I was looking at it.. and the timing belt covers were looking kind of odd to me. So, I pop those bad boys off there. And sure enough.. looks to me like it's a tooth off. Slide it one tooth over and stick a battery in it. test fire. (no water in the oil or anything).. Well it fired right up! I only ran it like this for about 30 seconds (to get some of the cobwebs out, so to speak) and then I shut it off. It sounds exactly like an EA82 is supposed to sound IMO.. Do people commonly mistake that as a bad headgasket? Tomarrow I'm going to put everything back together and see how it runs w/ coolant and everything.. maybe take it for a test drive. Without knowing a history on this car except "it has a bad head gasket" and being unable to afford a tune-up; what should I look out for before I take it around the block? Thanks for the wealth of knowledge everybody. I don't know what I would do without you guys!
  4. You need a punch. 3/8 I think. There is a pin holding the half axle onto the transmission. then it just slides off (pending being disconnected from the rotor/steering knuckle stuff)
  5. I don't know how the price is on them.. but I have heard good things about the Goodyear Assurance Triple Tread.. that was going to be the next tire I put on my GT before it got totaled.
  6. All I have to say is "All hummer 3's come with a FIVE CYLINDER engine." Get the F out of here. I drove an H3 from Tucson to Phx and back and it is a gutless drifty wind pushin it around POS. Sure the Sat radio and Sat TV was nice... but with $$ u can do that to anything. I like the Tribeca better than the H3 and I think the Tribeca is a POS. (Drove one of those too. No nose clearance at all.) I was very impressed by the Tahoe. However, that 100mph limiter has got to go. A little tuning and tightening would do it wonders. It did pretty good offroad, a little heavy in the silty river beds though. I'd still take a new Outback over any of them though.
  7. Do a search on here about pulling cv joints (half axles) .. A little patience goes a long ways when working on a Subaru. They are really easy once you get to know your way around it. Take a look here, maybe this will help?: http://www.haynes.com.au/category51_1.htm
  8. lol... if anything it's just a little too rocky... rofl
  9. You don't want air pockets in your coolant system because they create a nice little pocket of heat for your HG (headgasket) to begin its first trip to hell.
  10. It is a little cramped for working space in there. A proper deep socket and a 4" extension is a big help. And while you're in there just keep thinking to yourself..: "At least it's not an SVX, where there is 2 more cylinders cramed even farther back in there."
  11. Light blue exterior with grey cloth and black leather interior.. but the interior has been pretty abused. That is what you meant, right?
  12. The FWD fuse holder is located in the engine bay, near the firewall by the passenger side.. all by itself. If your torque bind issue has not gotten too serious having your transmission and differential fluid clean and your tire TREAD DEPTH must be equal (as well as tire size) and PRESSURE must be per subaru's requirements (Should be on the drivers door jam tag.) 90% of the time this fixes torque bind. If it has gotten too severe you will need 600-1500 dollars worth of transmission work. It is better to be having it in AWD. The FWD fuse is for temporary use for diagnostics etc. It will not affect your gas mileage to any noticable amount. Put the FWD fuse in to see if your problems stop. If they do, you have torque bind. If you have torque bind do the above mentioned steps. It is not recommended to drive w/ the FWD fuse in for extended periods of time. Good luck.
  13. Don't do that. That's your first mistake! I'd definately check and probably replace the air filter first. From there I would pull out the spark plugs and see what they look like to try to get a "read" of what the engine is burning like. While I had my plugs out I would do an ohms test on the spark plug wires.. I forget what range they are supposed to be in.. but you could probably find it by searching on here. If all that checks out or gets replaced and it's still doing it then I would move on to replacing the fuel filter and pcv valve. Good look. I'll put my money on plugs/wires or air filter though. -Eli- Edit: How many miles are on it?
  14. Would blown intake gasket let water flow through that quickly? I pulled the oil pan bolt and after ~2 gallons of water drained out about 2 quarts of milkshake followed it... the water runs through there just as fast as I pour it in... right from the radiator and on out the oil pan... Thanks for all the input guys.. looks like this one is getting a rebuild too, huh?
  15. Okay... so... uhm... what does it mean if I'm pouring water into the radiator and it is coming out of the cam cover ports? both sides too... I removed the hoses.. and that is the lowest spot for the water to escape... it comes out of both sides with pretty equal force as they are fairly level with each other. WTF? Gonna go remove cam covers.. *sigh*
  16. I used an entire whiteline rear sway / strut set-up on my 98 legacy GT. It took some smashing to get the actual sway bar; and cutting to get the strut bar mounts to fit... but yes, the endlinks and bushings will fit. I still have the strut and sway set up for sale if you're interested Edit: This stuff was originally used on a WRX WAGON, then an '02 Impreza 2.5 Sedan, then a 98 2.5 GT, Total miles approx: 20k
  17. The build date says 11/'85. What do you mean by the connectors on the distributor? Do you mean the coil? I'll have to wait til daylight to check now. Thanks for all the input. Any tips for fixing code 11?
  18. Compression results: (with engine cold) #1 - 133 , #2 - 133 , #3 - 115 , #4 - 125 I don't have the time to check that stuff right now.. and I don't know what white elephant means...
  19. But it's an 86... unless it is different codes because it's turbo?
  20. Codes 33 (Coolant Sensor or Circuit) and 11 (Ignition Pulse) Unless I am mistaken.. but that would make sense right? It flashed in this order: 11, 33, 11, 33, 11, 11, 11, 11, i think you get the point. So let's get some input on that... and later today I'll get some compression results.
  21. Passenger side rear for "Rx style" hatch? How much u want for it?
  22. Yeah.. I let what I thought was all of it blow out.. then i put about 3 quarts of water in the radiator... and a bunch more but slightly more watery started coming out... *sigh* I'm doomed. I think you may be right about the computer being hosed... Does anyone have any concerns about me using the computer out of my 88 RX to test this theory? Could it result in damage to my good computer?
  23. Thanks for the Input guys. I'm definately done for the night.. but tomarrow it's getting a compression test and I'm gonna try to pull any codes. I was just talking with Junkie (brian) and he was telling me the 86 turbo's are prone to cracking on the 1-3 side. Which made my gut drop of course. I hope you guys are right though.. if the gaskets are gonna need replacing anyway it sucks to have a cracked head too. Everybody hope for me that I don't need to rebuild this one too!!!
  24. '86 EA82T 3dr Hatch (not RX.. but almost) 5spd FWD, Dual 4wd, 3.7 LSD Rear-end. AND I GOT IT FOR FREE AAHHHAHAHAHAHAHA. Passenger rear window broken, fuel pump not pumping (no big deal got extra pumps, but it only pumps while the key is in the "start" position but not with it in the "on" position.) fuel injectors not getting power at all, ECS light is on when i "rig" it to run. Don't know how to pull codes out of this car. There is something else wrong with this car. It will run, it seems to be on all 4 cylinders. But that is with me just dropping gas right into the intake. (With the "TURBO" thing removed.) #4 was "hydro-locked" with "milkshake" but take the plug out allowed me to get blasted in the face by it. Replacing the spark plugs and dumping gas in there got it to fire and i got it running a little. But it is spitting milkshake under boost into what would be the post-turbo intake if I hadn't taken that "turbo" thing off. Also, the uhm.. PCV port? at the cam cover I think... from the 1-3 side.. spits up some milkshake into the pre-turbo intake.. So what I'm getting at here... is there oil and coolant mixing in or near the turbo somehow? Could any of what I mentioned here be the cause of the injectors not getting power? Is this motor going to need a rebuild to be drivable? Let's here from the EA82T guys!!!
  25. You were going south on Columbus near Broadway in a red ea82 wagon w/ a lift and some pretty tall lookin' tires. I was going North in my green SVX. Just wanted to give a shout out and say nice wagon!! (Anybody know the culprit? I didn't think there was any lifted wagons in Tucson!)
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