SuBrat84

Hey.. it was pretty easy I suppose. The hardest part IMO. Really you just gotta take the two trim piece out that proctects all the ecu and wiring under the dash... pop the ecu out.. pop the steering column out.. and then switch out the pedal boxes... The cable was fairly easy to find a decent hole in the firewall to use but is route a little strangly. Works fine though. I didn't go 4wd for a few reasons: #1, the main reason, It's not my car. #2, the rear driveline, differential, axles, etc etc would have cost a bunch of extra $$ #3, the car is going to Jessicas(my fiance') sister. She has two toddlers and no interest in ever needing 4wd. She just wanted something cheap and somewhat reliable. And hey, it beats the hell out of the civic hatchback of the same year that she wanted to buy for about the same price and have me replace a head. No thanks. I hate working on hondas. Besides.. a 4d will work out much better than some hatchback.. her kids are still carseat age. If we can get this car to last another 12 years I'll put a 4wd in it for her son!

I would be a little concerned if they towed a lot with it? Try and get 'em down to 13 or at least 13.5 Edit: Stress the fact you can tell it was a smokers car and that bothers you.

I can ask around a little. We have some family in the valley up there. It would help to know what kind of car ?

The Subject: A 1988 Subaru GL-10 FWD 3pd Auto. (Non-turbo) 3pd Auto took a big fat dump about 1/2 mile from getting it home in "one piece". Had to take a half axle out just to roll it home. Bought a 5spd fwd tranny out of an ea82 from the local u-pull-it with all the needed parts for ~$150. Then all the "tune-up" parts for ~$150. I didn't keep track of the exact hours but I put about three days in to it. Here's a good shot for all you digi-dash lovers: You'll notice it says it's in park... I wired it in "park" so it's able to start. The interior could use a little TLC.. like a shampoo or steam clean or..???: You might notice I forgot to grab the proper shift boot cover for the thingy there... so I Gotta try to find one. Here's a couple pics of the tranny all bolted up: It's pretty much plug and play.. As long as you have the crossmember and crossmember mounting hardware it all bolts right up. I used the starter from the 5mt that I got.. but I'm told the one from the auto would work as well??? Anyway, there you have it. My first auto to manual swap! (Practice for the SVX!!!)

Unfortunately pictures have to be hosted on another site and then you can link them onto here (copy/paste works)... I'm sure you'll find someone interested around here!

Are you looking to sell it as a whole or part it out? Pictures of the damage and a better description would be helpful in determining the value.. as a whole you could probably get somewhere between $500-$1500 depending on who wants it and how badly they want it.

If I wasn't in TUCSON I'd definately go. One of the few things I actually enjoy about the NW is Mt. Hood :cool:

Nope. But if we hurry up and find out.. we might be able to swap it with the one from the Legacy before they come take it away. BTW, did you know Jessica wrecked the Legacy and we got an SVX???

I took my 98 GT in some pretty deep water before... it kept getting deeper.. so i actually stopped, put it in reverse, and backed out. It was a flooded dirt road. Putting a manual switch to your radiator fans would be a very good idea. Basically.. if the water is below your rocker panels and the surface underneath the water is not slop you can drive in it all day long.. If the water is coming up past your headlights.. you better be just jumping through or you will loose momentum and stall out! This is Ryan (Ryker on the board) in his 88 GL Wagon.... And me in my 84 GL Brat going through the same spot but the other direction.. They are both bone stock. His is a 5spd, Mine is a 4spd. Both manual D/R 4wd. If you notice the ground is very firm, I had crappy 13" tires on. Maybe practice going through it in short spots first and go further each time? Also, do you have a manual or auto? Either way.. remember to keep it in a low gear and keep your rpms up!

Sounds like your transmission mounts may be bad and it's causing an awkward angle when you are on a hill. the 4wd light coming on has to do with a sensor in the center consol beneath the 4wd shift lever i believe. .. probably just needs a little adjustment... or you can just learn to ignore it

And get a punch... you gotta have a punch to get the axle pin out to pull the shaft away from the tranny.. What is it.. a 3/8 punch?

I've got all that.. the flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate are already in place.. shift linkage is in place.. just gotta swap the pedal assemblies, figure out how the wires go (I have the entire harness from the 5spd manual tranny) .. I even have the computer from the 5spd.. but it isn't a gl-10 computer.. so I'm hoping I can just keep the computer that's in it... Then I gotta put the tranny in.. I've got the starter that was with the 5spd tranny.. so I'll be using that one.. BTW.. are auto/manual starters compatible?? I seem to remember hearing of people having problems with the car not starting because of the "park" sensor.. i would like to avoid that problem as well...

Sure ya can!!! Okay.. so I'm callin' it a night.. because the next part is going to be a bit of a challenge.. and that is switching out the pedal assemblies and wiring in the manual tranny... I was hoping someone that has done this swap before could give me some tips on what stuff I need to switch to be effecient and get this working good! Thanks!

Here you see the timing hole with the torque converter flywheel thingy removed.. but there is the access to the bolts you have to remove to get the thing off. Here is the plate that the flywheel thingy attaches to inside the bell housing. This is the motor side of the "auto flywheel" ... see the 4 bolt holes? Tranny side of this heavy POS... do you see why I was confused about how to remove this thing??? Nothing like a manual... Can I have permission to slap the guy that invented the automatic transmission?? (More Questions to come in this process I'm sure.)

yeah the torque converter flex plate or whatever the hell... you have to get it from through the timing hole.. there is 4 bolts you have to take off.. you dont need a pry anything if you have a 12mm deep socket they just pop right off when you rotate to the edge of the timing hole.. so once you get those 4 bolts out the thingy just falls off.. then you remove the normal bolts to get the flywheel ready to put in.. I'll go take a pic.

Well.. I just dropped this auto tranny.. getting ready to put a 5spd FWD into this 88 GL-10 that was a 3pd AUTO FWD. Not turbo.. but has all the luxury options. Anyway, I can't see anyway to get this flywheel or whatever this thing is? off of the motor... and I can't find my books. TIA -Eli-

Don't quote me here but I think they only started giving the Legacy a 2.5 turbo in '05 in America. I think I would trust the 2.5 more than 3.0h6.. i hear a lot of the 3.0 not being that good.

Proper maintenance and good driving habits can prevent that.. the 94 I just bought has all original one owner 180k on the ticker and the tranny is smoother than the one on my 98 2.5gt w/ only 80k was.

As long as it is an "ea82" gl wagon the stuff will be interchangable..

Yeah... 73 or something in a 45.. i dunno.. you don't notice how fast you are going... cop wrote "55mph in a 45mph zone, detected by radar @ 73mph" ... so .... yeah

Aerodynamics.. structural integrity.. and yeah.. you can have all the windows down and wind doesn't hit you in the face! (Makes for a nice 80-90mph with the windows down!) And yeah.. parts for this thing are kinda spendy... ($160 to rebuild the alternator.. $60 for front brake pads $50 for rear brake pads.) And it takes PREMIUM Gasoline. It's SOOO worth it though!!!

too late.

Yeah, I got a clutch kit from AUTOZONE! for an XT6! to put in my 88 RX.. You shouldn't have too much trouble finding a clutch kit for exactly what you said "A 1984 Subaru GL 4WD 1800 (ea81)" The parts shop guys don't know what an ea81 is though.. that's your engine code. It sounds like what your saying is the pedal is stuck to the floor and wont come up? That's what happened when I shattered the clutch in the RX.. except I could pull the pedal back up. Had to start it in gear and rev match to shift... I've changed a lot of axles... so I prefer to drop the transmission for a clutch job.. it'd be a lot easier with a proper tranny jack though. Make sure you do a good job lining everything up before you tighten it down all the way or it's impossible to get the tranny back in. (Clutch alignment tool comes with most clutch kits.) Edit: Check the clutch fork on the top of your transmission (near the back of the engine bay) Make sure the cable is properly connected to it.. it should have just a little bit of freeplay.. and if the clutch is bad you could probably move it around pretty freely. if it is STUCK and WONT move.. the cable is probably too tight or you have some kind of meltdown inside that thing

Well, this is how they were when I bought it.. I would imagine that the goodyear guys put them on that way... it looks like they are supposed to spin that way... is there a reason or a purpose for the way they are supposed to go? Catches wind? More durable? Makes your wheels look like they are spinning backwards?

SVX Wheels are side specific??? Anyone else agree with kevin?