SuBrat84

How much do you charge for body work??

Okay so.. to avoid any confusion and stupidity on my part.. what are the 1600 pistons?? You're not talking about pistons out of any ea71 right?

I got it.. but I don't really understand it...

It's either 19mm or 22mm I think (unless torx is uhm.. not a regular bolt? )... I forget which is which with the tranny vs the differential plug.. The filler hole is on the passenger side of the tranny.. it is the same hole as the dipstick for it. It's kinda a trick to get to.. it's near the firewall on the passenger side of the tranny. Have fun... Get a good long funnel with a nice narrow tip....

Bump?

I can't get the currency converter because my stupid pop-up blocker I don't know how to disable... how much is the lift for the Brat (Brumby?)

I'm not sure about the OBW... but shouldn't you be somewhere in the 32-33 PSI range??

Okay.. so haha... I totally forgot that I had an EA81 w/ a good y-pipe-back except for a muffler... any way... I'm doing a complete tear down and I was wondering if anyone has good cleaning tips that wont f-up the aluminum. There is some minor rust on some bolts etc... any tips?? I think I want to split the block and clean all that up too. at the very least I need to do a cylinder hone and ring set... I have to split it to do that right? Does anyone know where to get a good re-build kit of all the gaskets and stuff? And, of course. What can I do for PERFORMANCE? Local machine shop bore each cylinder out .5 liter? Make it a 2 liter ea81?? Pistons to match of course.. Valve upgrades? Thoughts? Suggestions? I want our brat to have triple digit horse power!

Yeah.. mostly because they weren't imported to the U.S. with intentions of being a "street" vehicle. Also I believe part of it is that it's a 2-stroke? You can get 360's street legal.. just has to be one of the OLD OLD ones that was imported here and was street legal at the time... Kinda like if you're vehicle was not required to have seat belts at the time it was created and those were the standards of the day, you are NOT REQUIRED to have seat belts. At least here anyway!

Good thread I agree that if those little mirrors are a distraction that you should not have them. I adjust my side mirrors so i can see the edge of my car out. and my center so I can see out the whole back window evenly... It gives me plenty, plenty of visibility... but I would recommend ALWAYS ALWAYS checking your blind spot. Even with little convex mirrors on your mirrors!!! It really takes a fraction of a second to turn your a head a little and make sure there is no one BESIDE YOU. (I'm amazed the vehicles that can hide right there!) It's not like you need to turn so far to look behind you. Use your mirrors for that. Pay attention you aren't TOO CLOSE to the person in FRONT of you when you check your blind spot! Easy to avoid rear-ending someone! Just don't try to make the lane change if you are that close to someone! ALSO, PLEASE FOLKS, PLEASE... PAY ATTENTION TO YOUR MIRRORS! A slight glance up or over... you should look at each mirror AT LEAST twice every minute. It takes a fraction of second to do each one. Now, I say pay attention to your mirros because.. you can tell when that guy is coming up on you kinda quick and it's NOT SAFE to make a lane change. Patience and Politeness would make our roads a lot more safe to be driving on. Thanks for reading my opinion. BE SAFE. BE COURTEOUS. BE AWARE!!! -Eli-

Is that photoshop or real???

Seems like it just started doing this after I drained and filled my tranny fluid. When I start the car the "AT OIL TEMP" light comes on for maybe 10 seconds. Never blinks or anything.. it's the only time it comes on while the car is running... and my torque bind went away and the car seems to shift great... fluid level seems good... any thoughts or suggestions???

Sounds like torque bind the way you describe.. but I'm only familiar with it happening in Auto trannies... check to see what your gear oil looks like... maybe someone that is familiar with torque bind on a 5speed could help you out more.

I think the '01 is SOHC.. I'm not positive though... I know the '02 is

I pulled an ea81 by myself once... but I wasn't trying to be nice to the car it was coming out of... they're not that heavy at all.. once it was out.. I could pick it up and carry it around by myself... I couldn't have got it myself If I was trying to save the car it was coming out of.. but two people shouldn't have a problem.

Can you e-mail them to me? Or are they too big?? I mIRC and Yahoo if we can figure out how to do file transfers on there... (elijafir@yahoo.com)

First thing I'd do is replace the fuel filter. See how that acts after that.

Well you didn't mention what kind of car you have .. but on my 98 legacy it's 1.2... liters? in front and 0.8 in the rear.. but I have an auto tranny... 2 bottles is enough for front and rear... I don't think you need to change your diff fluid for quite a while though... like 60 or 90k or something...

I'd definately go with a new EA81 (stock) motor if yours is really truely unrepairable... have someone from your area come take a look at her... it may be something more simple than you think. Yes it's true that 2.5 TURBO block can handle 500+ hp. The NA ones can't though. There is some company I can't think of their name right now that builds a 2.5 Turbo they bore it and beef it and design it to go on a sand rail pushing 600+... so yeah.. if you got the money.. you can get the speed.. You could probably get a "new" used stock motor for your car for a couple hundred bucks... and I bet there is a board member up there that you could pay:brow: to do the swap for you... unless you want to learn to do it yourself... it's easy. Good luck. SWEET WAGON BTW! If you don't want it.. I DO! *Dreaming*

Yup just as easy on the new ones as the old ones... not a lot has changed. $300?!?! That's outrageous. Even 100 + Parts.. sheesh.. I'd never pay that for a brake job. If they got the $$$ though go for it.

Stretched steel. It's the stuff they use to help hold plaster to houses (not chicken wire though...) I don't know where you can buy it... I just found a plasterer at some new track housing and asked him for a 4' x 4' piece of it.. then cut it to fit. Sorry I don't have pics.. but it looks good!

How about: It's there so when I do a WRX or STI swap I don't have to cut in a hood scoop!

Hey! Welcome to Subaru! I don't think you mentioned if your wagon is a manual or auto tranny or if it has 4wd or not?? We own the cars in our signature and a 91 Honda Accord LX SW... I despise working on the honda compared to any of the Subaru's. Everything is so much harder to get to on the honda. (That's why it's not in the signature.) I think you will really enjoy the switch to Subaru's.. and get the hang of it in no time. Welcome and Enjoy! Eli and Jessica.

You should be able to just disconnect the battery for a few minutes... turn on the headlights or something AFTER the battery is disconnected to drain any latent energy... this should reset your ecu and make the CEL go away.. if it comes back it's probably not the gas cap.

Wow... That definately sounds like oil is not where it should be sometimes... I bought my 98 GT w/ 45k on it and it sounded kind of like what you are describing... 25 miles later of nice hard driving it threw a rod out of the block and exploded the water pump... One time that ticking noise is there... take the car up to redline in every gear you can safely... works great if you have a few miles of open freeway... try to blow the motor up.. if you succeed.. you get a new car. (In my case I got a new short block put in all for free.. love my GT...)