SuBrat84

I bought an aftermarket radiator for the 84 brat and it had AT Cooling hook-ups.. it might be aftermarket...

Well here's the engine in my 1989 Xt6 Full-time 4wd w/ Diff Lock w/ 101k miles on it that I got for $420 dollars from a U-Pull. According to Carfax, the odometer, and the tags.. this car hasn't been driving in 6 years... Problem: the fuel pump is dead. Also needs a tune-up and tires. So I set this up with a fuel pump from an EA82: The old fuel filter is in that setup, you just can't see it. Anyway, I got thirsty so I decied to drink some it: EWWWW Not Really!!! Decided it would be a good idea to use a 5 gallon bucket.. not knowing how much was in her...: There ended up being about two and a half gallons of this: Is that even gas? Didn't smell like it. Terpeuntine?(sp?) Anyway.. After I got all the old gas out of the tank I went and got a gallon of new 91 octane... and made this setup with the same stuff: After I ran the gas through the lines about 3 times the fuel filter was clogged.. so I reversed the lines and sucked clean gas through the pump and pushed a ton of GUNK out of the filter into an empty bucket.. put the lines back the "right" way and ran the "clean" gas through 3 more times. Anyway.. I know everything I need to get her running again.. I just had a couple quick questions... First.. would the ea82 fuel pump even supply enough fuel for the ER27?.. it seemed like it pumped pretty damn good to me... I'm probably gonna try it anyway and see if it seems like it's starved for fuel or not... and I was hoping someone could help me out with a picture or diagram of this area: So that I know how to route my fuel lines properly when I put it back how it goes. Thanks for reading the long post.. I hope you enjoyed my little fuel "purging" journey. Can't wait to drive this baby!

that's a nice write up.. thanks for the link.. my windows got the streakies too

Busted exhaust valve... burnt.. unless the pieces burned so hotly that they disentegrated(sp?) into exhaust.. they are probably trapped in the exhaust system... most likely in the catalytic converter... I had something similar to this happen on a Yamaha Blaster... the top of the piston started coming apart like that.. and a pretty decent pebble size chunk made it into the "big" part of the exhaust and wont come out either direction.. so it's just in there rattling.. dont feel like cutting and welding

Well I guess you'd want a Forester or an Outback as they come with a slighty higher suspension package than the other models... though I'm not sure how they compare to the Baja... As far as lifting it goes.. I don't know how makes them.. but there is people lifting 'em. Im sure someone here has some info on it. Good luck and welcome.

I gotta throw it in for us desert rock crawlers... bashing your undercarriage on a big rock at stock height.. and then dragging all accross that rock.. and then bashing it again on your way out... just plain SUCKS...

haha.. I always spray my rump roast with the gas... unplug the lines.. plug 'em into the new filter.. there ya go.. maybe a rag or something to reduce spraying

Well I don't do a LOT of snow driving or anything.. but I tend to slide more with an automatic than with a stick... just me i guess.. each to their own... You can find legacies and outbacks with 2.2's also... Go with the 5 speed... these AT's aren't worth the metal they're made out of IMO. I don't know how inclined to mechanics you are.. but the first clutch job I ever did took me 2 half-days (sat & sun) ... dropped the tranny and did it all with relative ease.. worst part of it was having the pilot bearing/clutch alignment thingy a hair off and not being able to get the tranny in and needing to re-adjust the thingy.. wasted like 2 or 3 hours on that. ... Anyway... yup.. manual's the thing to do with these cars.

Not too bad looking! Especially for $100!!! When you are writing a post you can add a picture by clicking the little icon that looks like a little mountain? You click that and then type in or paste the url that belongs to where the pic is.... or if you know html i think you can <a href> pics in too.. not sure though cuz i think it's easier just pushing the button

This looks a whole lot like the 14's on my XT6... Listed in the 13's as motion alloys... or is this a 4-lug list??

FedEx or their insurance company should be writing you a check for about $1200-1500 dollars, and you should exercise the buy back if you have a place to keep the car for spare parts, or to repair. Their insurance company will also pay for you to get looked at by doctors and chiropractors to make sure you are okay. MAKE SURE YOU ARE OKAY. YOU CAN HAVE LATENT SYMPTOMS FROM AUTOMOBILE ACCIDENTS AND YOU MIGHT NOT KNOW YOU ARE HURT UNTIL YOU END UP PAYING FOR IT YOURSELF.

I've got a tow bar for my 84 brat that was used as a flat tow behind a motorhome for many years... It's in storage, so I can't get to it tonight.. but tomarrow I will measure and take pictures for you.

Can i come work for you?

make SURE SURE you use that clutch alignment tool to be very very centered with that pilot bearing or you will have an impossible time trying to put that tranny back in!

So I got torque bind.. F ME. got my tires done with a four wheel alignment a couple weeks.. and now i got torque bind.. first thing I check is tire pressure.. god damn idiots at the tire shop had 40+ psi in my front left and 40+ in my rear right.. other two are perfect at 32psi... well I get them to proper psi and still torque bind.. so i change my oil, front and rear diff fluid, and ATF. STILL torque bind... so I put in FWD Fuse.. no torque bind... read this here... www.legacycentral.org/library/torquebind.htm Definately torque bind. Do I need to get a new rear housing or whatever and replace a bunch of thingies on there?? Or is there a re-build kit I can get that fix the bushings or seals or whatever has gone bad in there?? Can I get Big-O tires to pick up the tab for improperly inflating my tires or is there just no way to pin it on them?? BTW, it's running GREAT with the tires at proper pressure, and all the fluids changed... I've read a few of the debates.. so I'll bring it up again.. what's gonna hurt my car more?? Driving it around in FWD or driving it around with torque bind?? 98 Legacy GT 2.5 4EAT. TIA- Eli

I think he's saying with a MBC how high can you boost before you blow the engine? That i don't know..

If you know what you're doing you can pull a rear e-brake at 45mph on dry pavement do a fatty 180 spin and dump it goin the other way.. i love doin it w/ awd because there is less of a burnout when you change direction that hard. I was actually thinkin it would be cool to have FOUR e-brakes!! One for each tire!!! This could be very handy for off-roading! finding room for 4 with good functionality may be a challenge though.

My gen 2 brat does that.. pads move around when i drive.. annoying isn't it?

Wish I could.. how long will this be available? I understand the different thickness gaskets affect your compression ratio? Do you know how much of a difference there is between the two and which is better for NA and which is better for Boost?

The rx does have a tranny crossmember... and you probably don't have a computer:brow:

I dont know if that is considered sweating or not... seems like it's squirting out of there pretty good... As far as the valve adjust thingy.. check the pic again, I changed it.. Is that the valve adjuster? and is there supposed to be no gap between that and the valve at any time during its stroke? There is a least one that has a small gap in it......

Okay well here's what I found: Can YOU find the leak? I tried to get a best of a pic as I could of the coolant coming out through that nut right there.... Btw compression is all between 115 and 150.. 115 being #4 and 150 being #2... #1 was about 125 and #3 was about 140... This leak is on the 1-3 side.. 2-4 doesn't seems to be doing it... So.. what am I looking at here?

Thanks for all the good info.. I said "Piston Slap" because it sounds exactly what my Yamaha Blaster was like when the rings came apart and the piston busted a small chunk off the top part of it. Piston slap is probably something besides the piston slapping violently against the cylinder walls though.. I will check compression and pull the valve covers and keep you updated.

So after sitting for a week or two I finally got a new used radiator.. clean it up real good installed all good with good hoses and everything.. Was burpin the lines and revvin' it up a little bit from inside the engine bay when *STICK* goes the throttle. OH ************! ASAP I jump in and shut her off... too late... now at idle I'm getting this mad metal on metal squeeking noise and a wicked loss of power w/ a piston slap kind of noise trying to drive... I'm thinking it toasted a ring or two. gaskets maybe? Arrg... I guess I'm doing a re-build. Thoughts?

I'm not sure if this should go here.. but I figured If I ever bought a ej20T set-up that it would be for a swap... but anyway i found this site that has JDM ej20T "Ready to Swap" set-up for $3500 for Ver 4, $4000 for Ver 5, and $4500 for ver 6. From what I can tell it comes with everything including the computer, wiring harness, tranny and intercooler! What's the difference for the Version? Does this seem like a good price? Anything fishy here? http://www.osakajdmmotors.com/introsubaru.htm