SuBrat84

looks like I'm off to the junk'em yard.

Sorry for the assumption. You know what they say about when you rump roastume something.

These are engine seris labels and how we recognize what types of motors/parts we have. There is EA71(1.6l), EA81(1.8l), EA81T (1.8l Turbo), EA82 (1.8l), EA82T (1.8l Turbo); Then there is your EJ seris (newer) I think there is 18 (1.8l), 20 (2.0l), 22(2.2l), 25(2.5l).. maybe A 15 and 16 too?.... anyway.. There is also like the ER27 (6 cyl 2.7l) and there is a 3.0 and 3.3 liter 6 cyl.. and im pretty sure you can get all ej's with turbo too.. and the EJ22 seris engine just happens to be one of the most reliable well built economical engines ever built.

2.2l you're good at 90k.. You'd probably make 120k or more on the original timing belt.. it's just preventative maintenance you know.. wait for 90k if you get it done at a subaru dealer... if you're a do it yourself kinda guy do it every 75k! The 2.2 is a great motor and generally problem free. Just don't neglect it and it'll last for ever!

do it!

Is that the 2.2l or 2.5l? Routine maint. timing belts every 60-80k.. should be good to go for 300-400k miles. Nice pick btw!

So I got a "new to me" radiator from Ryker. Thank you Ryker! Well he brought it with an extra fan and fan shroud.. I was gonna go dual fans on my radiator but The fan shroud wont fit in between the water pump pulley and radiator.. is my front end crushed up too close or is this normal?? Do i need a special kind of fan? Mechanical instead of electrical doesnt seem worth it?? Is there a thinner pulley I can stick right there?? Thinner Electric fan? Suggestions??

You gonna install hill holder too?

I think to answer your questions... We don't have free-wheeling hubs because getting out to lock and unlock your hubs and drive forward and backward and crap is a PITA. Subes don't need freewheeling hubs because we have a lever or button that engages or disengages our rear-driveline. Right? IMO this is a much better design and less likely to CRAP OUT like freewheeling hubs.

- Front right stabilizer rod (or something like that) - not gone yet but close: $116 - Probably not a bad idea to have something like that done at a stealership as long as they offer a good warranty on their work. - Rotors (rusted) and pads for all 4 wheels: $600 - If your rotors are warped because they are rusted then you should do it. Stealership SOLD me a 98 Legacy with rusty rotos.. said it's fine. If you do your rotors.. find a good trustworthy brake shop or DIY it's a pretty easy repair if you got a little patience and a repair manual. Probably half that 600 is labor. - Y pipe (part of the exhaust sytem; rusting out): $1,280 - WHAAAAT???? NO WAY. Find a good "Owner Operated" exhaust shop.. He can probably build you one with a brand new catalytic converter for like $200-$300.. unless that SVX takes a special something.. but I doubt it. If your cat is okay and you just need some pipes cut and new ones fit in and welded properly.. it'd be even cheaper. Anyone know how much the SVX "Y w/ cat" costs? - Leaking oil pan: $280 - I would imagine this is $85/hour labor because they probably are required to pull the motor to change the oil pan gasket. Are you losing more than a quart between oil changes? If no, don't worry about it. IF yes, you should probably get it done.. I haven't wrenched on an SVX ... YET... but it IS a subaru.. so MOST of my info should be correct.

You're not allowed to count reverse when you say "speed" .. like the ea81 4 speed (12 spd w/ fwd, 4hi, 4lo) .. or like the ea82t 5 speed (10 spd, awd hi, awd low)

If your front tires are STRAPPED down to a dolly that pivots... don't you think that your tires would need to be able to turn with the pivoting action? Anyway. As long as your tires are strapped to the dolly properly you don't need your wheel locked and it's preferred you have it unlocked. This will help your vehicle to track better. You don't need your parking brake on either. I know it will help you feel better.. but it wont make a difference.

1992... sounds like you have a "Brumby" which is the same thing as a "Brat" except "Brat" went out of production in the late 80's... and "Brumby" was in production for Australia, New Zealand?, and some other places apparently? until 1992? Pics would be awesome. Sorry I don't know about the Power Steering.

This is common when towing soobies... towed an 84 Brat from San Diego to Tucson on a tow bar.. We couldn't make a 90 degree turn without that happening. What you want to do is make SURE you're in 2wd, nuetral, and the steering wheel is free. NOT LOCKED. Your tires are tracking to the opposite side because your hitch is too high or your tires are under-inflated. If you can get a bigger "drop" hitch (we had a 6" drop and that still wasn't enough.. lifted turbo diesel...) That would be your best bet. and make Sure your front tires are as close to 33psi as you can. The tow bar should be as level as possible.. or possibly even lower at your hitch than on the soobie! Good luck.

No rust and good mechanical working condition you're looking at least 2,000 anyway.. I love the "passing lamp" or "third eye" they were only used in 82. so yeah it is kinda rare.. If I had the extra 2k.. I'd buy it!

A rubber mallet might help too

Haha.. you get the wrong parts half the time because parts store guys aren't too good with Subaru parts... you'll get used to it.

That would be the coolest limo EVER! But you gotta do the 500+hp STI swap!

You got my vote for CO.

1. As far as I know the "head gasket plague" is any pre-2000 2.5L DOHC. "EJ25 DOHC". I have a 98 Phase 1 EJ25 DOHC and I like it.. very torquey. If you're going used.. anything pre-98 I would go with the 2.2 "EJ22" if I were you. 2. The 2.2l is notoriously more reliable than the pre-2000 2.5l .. 3. With proper basic maintenance I would expect 250,000 at least out of ANY soobie. 4. As long as all four tires are the SAME size and treadwear you will be okay.. going outside the "recommended" tire size is okay. 5. If it is a 2.2l Legacy and the price is fair I would go for it. Do a good tune-up and change the timing belts and you should be good for another 100k without much of a problem! In my personal experiance a Subaru is way more reliable than any Honda and just as easy to work on as any VW.. I have an 84 brat with 240k miles on it that has less problems than our 91 accord sw with 190k miles on it.. Good luck, and welcome to the board!

The guy from Sierra Vista should be putting in for somewhere between 3500-4000 round-trip when he gets home! Texas would have him beat though...

I was at the junkyard today and it looks like hatches and maybe some dl's have smaller axles... im sure someone has some better info on it

No I had to get a radiator cap for it. EA81 is 13 PSI right? I got a 13 PSI cap. I know it's good.

Glad no one got hurt.

So the radiator in the 84 Brat burst a core? the thing the fins are attached to that connects to the tank.. yeah.. it burst right where it connects to the tank.. I took it into the parts store to get it replace under the "lifetime" warranty.. the radiator is 4 months old.. brand new. Well apparently I overlooked the fact that the tanks are also expanded. APPARENTLY the fact that the tanks have expanded makes the warranty void.. because THEY pressure test their radiators up to 30psi .. and the fact that the tanks have expanded means that my 13psi radiator cap is defective.. and that my coolant system in my brat is defective.. and who cares about the burst core because I had too much pressure in the system... seems like a load of BS to me.. the pressure cap was working just fine.. temp gauge working just fine.. everything work just fine.. and BURST goes the radiator.. my fault?? I think not.. So now I have to contact the company directly?? Guy at the parts store seems to think they will tell me the same thing he did. Jerk. Seems like BS to me.. Any thoughts?