SuBrat84

I checked the cable.. and it was loose... and I tightened it.. and took it for a drive. It wont really shift into gear unless the motor is off... so it's like... turn it off, shift into reverse.. start it up.. back up... turn it off.. shift into 1st.. start it up... drive down the street.. turn it off.. start it up.. clutch isn't disengaging now... drive it back.. turn it off... the clutch is definately toasted. Hey Marisa, did you decide about when your getting that clutch?

Get them hooked on the Subaru's early. Bring them.

Hey now... lets not get carried away.. the legacy only does 35 in first gear redlined. that's why i was like "wtf?" I was getting it up to about 5500 rpms speedo SAID 55mph.. then shifting into second and hitting "70"mph at like 4500-5000 rpms... So what's a more realistic speed that I was going? like 35-40 at shift and then 50-55 in 2nd?

So, as some of you may know YellowSub got an 88 RX. It needs a clutch. It only shifts into gear with the motor off.. it's got just enough that if you catch it just right you can get into 2nd gear.. but it's not "drivable".. I was testing it out to make sure it was indeed the clutch.. Unless the speed-o is reading WRONG .. I got up to 55mph in FIRST gear.. shifted into 2nd and hit 70mph like it was nothing. It didn't feel that fast.. but I've never driven or ridden in an RX so I don't know what to expect for the feel of it. That little stock turbo PULLS!

That's funny... I've been living in apartments for the last 2 years and haven't had a problem. Half the time I forget to lock my ride. When I got busted into I was out hiking. In hawaii. I do so hate apartment living though and can't wait to get my own house.

Damn amatuers wrecked your stuff man. I'm sorry. I got hit once but they slim jimmed me and took my deck and all my discs. It was clean.. Will your insurance cover any of that damage or is it just not worth paying the deductible?

WHOA.. WHOA WHOA WHOA! If you can ever get a decent no rust subaru for ~$200 or less you gotta do that!! Get what's wrong with it fixed and sell it to someone on the board!!!

Looks good to me.. I'd see what the RX guys think.. Let me know (call or pm me) if you want to schedule a time for me to come work on it.. Gar isn't going to hire me.. and apparently he sold Japanese Unlimited to someone else. So I'm pretty much always available.. I might be out of town for a couple days this week though. :-\

Hey. I'll work on it for you if you let me drive it!!! Btw, sorry I haven't been over to see the XT6 in a little while.. Im at the buying parts stage and very broke... Soon though... sooon... then we can RACE! Old Sooby Style. 89 XT6 vs 88 RX!!

Yeah what they said. I ALWAYS use my clutch switching between 2-4hi-4lo. Wheels straight. NEVER pavement unless it has ice or snow. Never had a problem with it. Light 'em up!

Yes, I was going to say cap, rotor, timing.. see what the spark plugs look like.. check for vacuum hoses that may have came off or gotten a hole.

Compression is easy to check. You just need a compression tester gauge... it's just a little gauge with a hose and a threaded end with a rubber o ring on it that screws right into where the spark plug goes.. then you gotta crank the engine. the preferrable way to do this is by using a starter bypass and leaving your key in the OFF position, to prevent the vehicle from starting.

I just deal with my vibration.. Part of it is because of the anti lock brakes.. the other part might be a very slight warp in the rotor. When I can afford to replace the rotors I'm going to do all four at once.. preferrably with performance rotors.. and do all the pads too.. and make sure everything fits like it's supposed to.. like if you need any little weird clips to hold the pad in place.. gel it up.. and see if it goes away... if it doesn't.. I'm gonna blame it on the anti locks...

Sounds like brake problems. I didn't think it was at first, either, but it was. Good luck tracking it down.

I think at least more time.. really we need more people. The end of June may not be the best time to do it.. might work better if we try to plan a couple months ahead? Like for August or somethin? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=37619

I forsee you getting a 2006 Legacy Outback Turbo Wagon. If you're worried about body roll.. get bigger sways and maybe even strut braces. I don't think you'll be scraping her on the driveway at your daughters. I forsee you being madly in love with your turbo outback!

Yeah really.. I got like a dozen or so spare lug nuts if you need some?? Big O tires down here keeps them in stock brand new if you want to pay for some shiny ones??

It's the first US 2.5 Legacy Turbo... they had turbo legacies.. what 91-94? As far as what model to get of the 2.5T or the 3.0.. I'd definately go with the 2.5T ... it sounds like the handling issues you're talking about have to do with engine weight for the extra cylinders and a stiffer suspension on the turbo model. Maybe the turbo has bigger sways? I don't know your intents and purposes with the car.. but It sounds like you would like the 2.5 Legacy Outback Turbo.. or the 2.5 Legacy GT Sedan Turbo.. Compare the price difference of these with how much a new Audi of similar stature would cost... then spend the difference on mods for your Subaru.. You'll be impressed.

I think you need to put .5"-1" spacer on the front. But it looks sweet w/ those wheels.

Hey.. mine does this too. I'm poor so I run out of gas all the time.. the light will come on brighter the lower you get. It's coming on and then turning off because as you drive around the gas moves around.. and the float is moving.. I'm pretty sure if you're going downhill or braking/corning the gas moves more to the front of the tank and shows less gas... and if you are accel or going uphill the gauge shows more gas... You'd really have to be stopped on pretty level ground for about 3-5 minutes to get a close to "accurate" reading off these cheesy float gauges.

Cool.. XSNRG has apparently has an xt parts car and is going to hook me up with the moulding if they can figure out how to remove it... i guess it couldnt hurt to have 2 if u dont wanna charge me very much for it...

I've seen the fuel needle on my 98 gt drop to almost "a quarter tank" BELOW the E line! It has like 2-3 gallons left when it hits the E line!

The brakes sound like rear warped rotors... more than likely caused by driving a short distance with the hand-brake engaged 1/2 - 3/4 of the way. As for the shifting issue.. I have had a similar problem where it wouldn't shift out of park.. but was due to a tail light fuse being bad. Edit: I would suggest some aftermarket high performance type rotors. Something with good airflow and better stopping capability. Then don't drive with the hand brake engaged.

My 98 GT is a 4AT (blah!) and it wont shift into second at 55 unless I do it myself... and it's very casual about gaining speed in third gear below 3500 rpms.. ESPECIALLY with the AC (defrost runs your ac)

it kind of sounds like you're not getting power to your rear wheels.. maybe your rear diff is frozen or something ??