SuBrat84

If you figure it out let me know.. mines does it too. I think it's a vacuum leak.

My 98 Legacy 2.5 has a ±16 gallon tank... the gas warning light comes with ±3 gallons left in the tank.

You got my vote for truck! I don't care what the import tax authorities think!

Subaru gave the Brat jump seats so they wouldn't have to pay import tax on a 4wd "truck" ... with the jump seats it's classified as a passenger car. (At least that is the information I found on it.)

Do you mean that no other Gen 1 subaru's had dual range? I am confused by your statement. :-\

Sure.. but the way I drive they probably will be fried.

I was just sayin if it's not the links then to get a meter

Most platinums plugs I know of are rated to last 100,000 miles under "normal" driving conditions. (Definately not the life of any SUBARU I've ever been in.) I can handle changing my plugs every 60k miles for 50 bux... That's not too bad to keep my car in good running condition.

Yup.. my 98 2.5 GT calls for NGK Platinum.. cheapeast I could find them was $11.95 ea. I wouldn't put anything less in my subaru.

There will be a stamp on the top of your motor somewheres... "EA81" or whatever...

I hope this helps.. I was just having this problem TODAY as a matter of fact.. here's a couple PICS: This is an 84 GL Brat............. and this one is an 82 GL. As you can see, I took the one out of the brat to use in the GL .. gonna have to get some more tomarrow. The red one in the middle there is for your ignition.. your car will not start if this thing is bad (sometimes you can't tell from the outside.. as was my problem, and why i tore the whole dash apart in the 82) but will run. A good test would be to take it out.. and find a short length of wire to connect the two prongs that are in there and try and start it (this is easier if you have a buddy, one person to hold the wire and one person to turn the key).. If it starts you have a bad FL.. if it doesnt... i suggest going to get a multi meter. ( http://gallery.usmb.net/album17 )

NP!!! I already had the thing apart by the time you suggested that! I just didnt know how to hot wire!

There is a box in your engine bay near your battery / coil / etc... and on top of the box it says "Green" "Red" "Green" or "Green" "Red" "Red" or something to that nature.. they are "Fusable Links" (FL) The one in the middle is the red FL and belongs to the ignition. It was blown but you couldn't tell because it didnt burn through the fiber that is wrapped around it.

Hey. We have a 98 legacy... the pinging noise shouldnt be serious.. (i cant hear it on your car though) They all do that.. it's the horizontally opposed design and our valve lifters get sticky. Frequent oil changes to prevent gummy build up will help. It's also good to change the oil hot if you can, or if a shop does it, let them know. I don't know what oil you're using... but 10w30 seems to help keep the noise down a little. Good Luck, and again, welcome!

Hey we have an 84 brat as well... it is very noisy also. The air suctions valves are the source of most of our noise. and some minor exhaust leaks.. You might want to check if your gaskets where your exhaust pipes connect to your motor are bad... You can kinda feel around under there to see if any exhaust is escaping... be careful not to actually touch the pipes though... it is harder to tell also if your cooling fan is running... Good Luck, and welcome!

yeah i wish i woulda checked it "Better" before i tore the whole dash apart Oh well.. it's all back together now and ready to go. Her Brights dont work.. and the gas pedal is really stiff... among other problems... needs a driver side axle... inner cv boot is TOAST. I could go on all night. But YaY I'm done

well.. didnt they make a few old soobs with REAR wheel drive? that would still be 2wd auto right?

Okay, I'm an IDIOT! "Green Red Green" mean anything to everybody? "Red" was broke but didn't show any external signs of being damaged.. DOH! Oh well.. learning learning learning.

Okay I haven't tried hot wiring it yet.. You know how a bypass works basically connecting the big wire (positive lead) to the little wire (12v?) on the starter motor? If i touch that sensor wire to the big one, positive lead, and use the bypass to crank the motor it WILL Start, and WILL run without the sensor wire touching the positive lead anymore. if i try to use the key to crank it (with the sensor wire touching the lead), it just goes *CLICK* (without that sesnor wire touching the lead it does NOTHING.) Going out right NOW to try the hot wire.

Inside the hood.. those wires that go to the tranny sensor.. there is ONE of those two that if it's getting power I can "bypass" the ignition (on the starter motor) to start the car.. I'll go try to find the hotwire on the ignition right now..

That makes sense.

Also.. when I give that wire power.. the voltage meter in the dash comes on too... (I dont have a multimeter or test light)

Okay how do I hot wire.. If I use an ignition bypass and give one of those wires, but not the other, a positive lead from the battery, it will start and run (that wire doesnt need the lead to stay running)... that's the only way i can figure out how to start it.

Which front half axles (cv's) from which soobs are compatible with which soobs? (Specifically 80's models...)

Okay that's what I thought.. I'm going to have to solder them to that sensor?? Is that sensor bad if it's not starting? With those wires touching that sensor the starter motor wont even *Click* ... it does NOTHING. Keep the suggestions flowing.