SuBrat84

the one for the oil pan is not concerning me at all because im pretty sure i have some of those laying around in my piles of old suby bolts.. the exhaust stud I can probably get locally as well.. it's the cam to head bolt that concerns me.. it seems like it is very specifically machined to keep the bracket from moving..

So I'm rebuilding this '97... STILL... and I need 3 bolts and no clue where to get them since the websites etc are for common parts.. I couldn't even find part numbers out from the "local" (100 miles) stealership. I need: 1 camshaft bracket bolt (holds the camshaft onto the head) 1 exhaust stud bolt and nut (holds the exhaust manifold onto the head) 1 oil pan bolt (holds the oil pan on the block) Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.

Do they slide good still? I am amazed they fit.. I thought they would be too wide. how hard was it to mount up? Was it a direct swap?

I have a 2.5 apart right now.. The clearance between where the coolant flows around the cylinder is very little.. I didn't measure but not more than an eighth of an inch of aluminum. When the pressure (heat) gets too much it blows the gasket and then allows ehxaust to seep through into the coolant.. then subsequent heating/cooling of the motor will expand the leak.

There is a thousand reasons your check engine light will come on in that car. Anything from a loose wire in a connector somewhere to a loose gas cap. Definately have the codes check at autozone, or if your husband is buying a reader that is even better.

Thanks. Oddly enough it does have the two piece which has caused me some frustration ordering parts because even the place i was ordering from said it was the one piece (by vin)... but sure enough when i opened it up it was the two piece.

I just got back from the local machine shop. He wants $150 per head to do the valve job and resurface. Does this seem... okay?

Here is a really great write up from Shawn for the SOHC EJ22... How about one for the DOHC EJ25? Keyway Down to avoid interference still? What about lining up cams? Thanks.

So I'm getting ready to take this engine apart it's finally been above freezing yesterday and today!! I just want to ask if I still need to locktite the screws on the back of the oil pump because we went ahead and got a new one anyway.. or if I can just leave it since it is new? my mom really wants this car to last.

I had to take my tank out and dump all the nasty piss yellow gas out into a bucket then I Took it to my local do it yourself spray carwash and pressure washed the living daylights out of it from every angle possible... Fixed my problem and I was able to drive the car 1,400 mi. without a hitch.

Before you get too carried away taking apart all your sensors and resistors and fuses and all that stuff check your fuel pressure... or at least see what the fuel sock in the pump looks like.. .my xt6 had so much residue in the tank I couldn't get it to run just like what you are saying I eventually had to take my fuel tank out and pressure wash it and replace a bunch of leaking fuel hoses under the car. Fuel pump is located on passenger side underbody near the rear tire.

I think if you pay really close attention you can tell the ones that are pulling the e-brake vs. the ones that are throttling by what their tires are doing.. IMO this kind of drifting is much more challenging than "drift racing"

Does it have AC? Is the AC coming on with the defrost? It's only the defrost setting that does this? Like if you put heat to the floor it goes back down? Does it go above "Half" on the gauge? One fan or two? Clutch fan or electric? If the gauge doesn't go above "half" then it's probably nothing to worry about. More details please!

Yeah.. but were you jumping you subaru over ski ramps etc etc?

Not only that, but one trip I got a speeding ticket. Another trip i got my rear corner window in my wagon smashed out. Another trip Jason lost his board and I spent the day boarding with a sock for a glove. Another trip my gf at the time left a bag full of gear outside of the car where I couldn't see it when we drove off. I could go on... Mt. Hood is jinxed.

I don't think I ever had a trip to Mt Hood where SOMETHING didn't go wrong.

X2 on that one. Way to F up the slopes, huh? that would be SO fun!

repost x5 but it's still cool

Sounds like mounts/bushings to me. How hard do you drive it? Harder shifting and accelerating/stopping will wear out bushing and mounts faster.

Thanks for the great pics! I knew the thermostats looked different.. is there some reason it makes some kind of difference other than they are 1 degree difference? So I need to buy this metal oil separator upgrade and should I just get a new oil pump then? I have a manual but it only goes up to 96.. I didn't think the manuals were out for 97 and up? Is it hard to explain what a valve job entails? I have to order parts because we're hundreds of miles from any Subaru dealer.

Oh yeah I'm 99.9% that it's a blown head gasket... everything I listed above is genuine subaru parts.. so... A valve job.. is that just cleaning/adjusting them? Or is there more to it? Where is the oil pump? Is it something I can change after I do the job or is it inside the motor? I have a new thermostat and hoses too they're the only thing that's not subaru parts.. rear seperator plate needs to be replaced with the metal one. <-- is that something I need to buy? Can I live without doing that? Not splitting the case... How important is it to do the ring seal? Thanks guys!

Other than "Don't do it, put in an EJ22." I already have all the parts and it's my mothers car. 1997 Legacy Outback EJ25 4EAT. I've done timing jobs and motor swaps and all of that before. I'm replacing: Drive Belts Timing Belt / Pulleys / Tensioner Radiator / Water Pump Oil Pan PCV Valve / Knock Sensor Air / Fuel / Oil filters Spark Plugs / Ignition Wires And I have an Overhaul Gasket Set to do the actual rebuild. 1. Does it seem like I forgot anything? 2. Is there anything I need to take care to not damage while I'm pulling this thing apart? Aside from the valve clearance thing with the timing. 3. Any specific pointers to make this job quicker/easier/more quality? 4. Can you turn up the heat in Nebraska? 5. I plan to do a write up with pictures and I will give credit where credit is due for any assistance. Thanks Guys!

You'd be better off buying one from Harbor Freight for $150-$200 and then selling it if you need the money. You'd make out better than renting one in my opinion. Wish I was there to help you out with this. IT's freakin cold up here.

I had mine hooked up to my radio 12v for a while... Okay, now with the car RUNNING get under there and get your multimeter out. Put the negative lead of your multimeter on ANY GOOD BODY GROUND and the positive lead of your multimeter can touch EITHER of the prongs on the connector now (bot not both at the same time!) One of them should be giving you voltage now. If it is, the GROUND WIRE in the plug is BAD. They do go bad if the shielding in them is messed up.. or something weird. You can still use the plug if you just attach an EXTRA ground wire from the pump terminal to ANY GOOD BODY GROUND.. leaving the old "bad" ground wire on there wont hurt anything. It never hurts to put extra grounds in. I do believe you said you are using an after market pump so make sure you have the polarity(+/-) on the terminals going the correct way.

What is happening is pressure is building up in the cooling system and forcing it out the cap into the overflow bottle. The causes for this in order of cost are as follows: 1.. Thermostat 2.. Water pump 3.. Radiator 4.. Headgaskets You have my vote for #4 as it is the most common cause for what you are describing.