SuBrat84

Okay which one of these is the yellow/white? Can I get voltages for these wires? Originally Posted by MorganM black/white from ECU to ignitor - correct yellow from ECU to ignitor - should be yellow/white black/white from ECU to + on coil - is actually coming from a ground point through some little resistor or w/e yellow from ECU to - on coil - correct black/white from ingitor to + on coil - correct blue from ignitor to - on coil - correct So you should have two black/white wires on + at coil - correct Yellow and blue on - at coil - correct

It's a no spark thread.. not a no start.. gas delivery is fine. Would how the fuel lines are hooked up affect whether or not I'm getting spark??

Okay I'm trying to test the disties for Volts AC without it plugged in right? I'm getting no reading for any ac volts coming out of the disties.

Now by CAS output you mean coming from the ECU? I did this test with the disty unplugged. Does that or should that make a difference? I tested the wiring side.. not the disty side.

I know the disty I took out of the SPFI loyale was good because that motor would run. It doesn't seem to make a difference.. I'll go test that on ac voltage then.. Both the 5v dc connections read 0.015 v ac while cranking. 12v dc stuff reads like 33v ac, 11v ac, 5v ac, 1.5v ac, nothing, then just repeats.. doesn't matter if I'm cranking.

Dude, yes, the belts are fine. I took the covers off i can see them moving just fine. Yes, the rotor turns.. those are some of the first things I checked right after fuses.

black / white - 5.10 volts dc black - ground green / yellow - 5.10 volts dc black / green - 12.50 volts dc so there never was a short right... the guys CAS went bad.. he bought a disty that was for the wrong year and it's just wired in wrong? so.. which wires go where.. any luck finding those fsms? Black / White (5v) | White Wire to Disty Black / Green (12v) | Red Wire to Disty Yellow / Green (5v) | Green Wire to Disty Black = Black = Ground It is a "circular" harness and the 5v connections are opposite whereas the 12v and ground are opposite. So should I just switch the 5v connections and see if that works?

oil.. maybe gear oil.. but some kind of oil

13Crank angle sensor or circuit now instead of 34....... maybe it is wired wrong or something?? *sigh*

34EGR solenoid valve stuck on or off Would this be contributing to this problem? Horn Works.

fuse 5 looks good. yes it's an 87 for sure. no power seatbelts. he had a brand new (reman) disty in there. Does it have to be bolted down for the disty to be grounded or something? I'm going insane.. this is my living now.. I need to fix this thing badly.

You guys wont even buy this. I helped tip the car back on its wheels. They are soo light. The fuzz wouldn't let us be under the car tipping it down.. so I hooked my engine hoist up to one of the tow hooks.. It was really painless to tip it back over. The pass. mirror was busted of course.. and some minor dents and scratches. The car wasn't broken into. We made the cops dust for prints anywhere we thought you would put your hands to try and tip a car. There was ONE PAIR of palm prints above the drivers door at the roofline. Fingers were too smudged to lift a clean print. My guess is what the guy did was just start rocking the car until it was up against the curb... and then just kept rocking it until it rolled over. It's possible there could have been two other people (at the wheel wells) but if there was they used gloves or something to not leave palm prints. the jerks!

3 of them.

yeah but... isn't the CAS built into the disty? or is it somewhere else?

Since you all are asking for an update.. nothing has changed. It still wont spark and I still can't find a short. What kind of sensors being broken would cause a no spark? (I dont think it's the CAS, because thats in the disty, right?) My theory on this now is to just keeping swaping parts/sensors until I get a damn spark to work properly. Also.. as far as testing wires I am going to unplugg EVERYTHING and just test the wires themselves from end to end and to ground. You guys don't think i should just use this block in my RX?

Okay. I know I'm a stubborn Lazy Aaaa Hole. But I've been sick ever since. THE STARTER: There is a positive terminal. There is a terminal that a wire from the igntion hooks on to. The IGNITION WIRE TERMINAL is getting perfect (0.000) continuity to the body of the starter. This is with the starter sitting on my counter, so not hooked up to anything. I know I keep saying I'm going to put a different starter in there I just want to run this by you guys and see if you think that sounds like my whole problem? Edit: Nevermind. I tested two others and they both do it too. Aurrrg.

unless your donor car is a turbo with the 3.7 rear end you dont need to swap rear ends.. they should both be 3.9. You really should get the tranny mount from bratsrus and then you will also need to have a custom shorter driveline or a custom mounting bracket for the two piece driveline. Besides the mounts everything is plug and play.

I used to wave a lot.. or if a window was down or stopped at an intersection I would throw out a "Nice Subaru!" There is just too many people in a city of 1,000,000+ to do that to everyone. I started getting too many wierd looks and stuff like I Was some kind of nut. Now I just waave or w/e to people who I can TELL understand what their Subaru is to them.

I am seriously if I cannot get this car running by this weekend I will use this block in my rx and blow the ************ out of it.

It was just a fuse. Everything is back together and doing the same exact thing. That makes it not the ignition. I am going to just start jacking parts off of the loyale until something changes... starter next i guess.

Okay, well. I put everything back together and it all seems to be testing out okay.. except I'm only getting 10% voltage to the coil. (1.3) where it should be ~13. Nothing else is getting hot except three of four resistors or transistor or whatever those little cylinders are under the dash. So, still no spark.

For the third or fourth time, I'm sure. THERE IS NO CONTINUITY ON THE STARTERS POSITIVE LEAD OR THE STARTERS BATTERY CABLE. I really do think now that it is/was the ignition.. and I already am half way done putting everything back together. I'm also fairly sure the starter, among all those other things, were getting hot because it was the easiest place for electricity to go without blowing fuses. Regardless if the ecu is fried or not I have 4 more of them. I don't think it is though.

I think it's going to be okay.. different column seemed to help. *Crosses Fingers* However, I had to use the loyale column because the turbo coupe aparently has different connectors. I'll start putting it all back together tomarrow after work. So, let's hear it!

This may not be over. Should the alternator be getting continuity through the battery terminal..? because my brat motor does it too.. and as far as i know that motor ran before i pulled it out. I haven't replaced the column or anything yet because now I'm not even sure that's the problem.. because when I tried hooking up the positive lead to the alt then i got continuity again... this is getting stressful. My dad is going to be here in 3 days I was hoping he could drive this car around. I feel like I'm chasing phantoms.. or like maybe I just don't know how to use a multimeter.. or how a cars electrical systems works.. or something.

Belts are fine.. they both turn and i can see that cam turning with the disty out.