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jonas

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Everything posted by jonas

  1. Fresh bed liner, repainted the roll bar, and got the seats in. http--,,--// http--,,--// Used all stainless hardware for ease of removal and to keep rust down.
  2. Yes, the 4 prong spade type. I've been thru my tow wiring and all looks good.
  3. well, I've crawled all thru the wagon, haven't found anything wrong. still popping fuse. I'm still having doubts about a faulty switch, but it's about all I'm left with. Anyone happen to have one?
  4. I would like to know this as well. Also where you had it done. Quotes I've gotten in my neck of the wood have been ridiculous.
  5. Thanks, i'll check out those possibilities. Signals work fine so I'm not really leaning in that direction. I've spent the last 2 days going over wiring and connectors and (un?) fortunately everything looks good. I'm gonna hook up the old signal housing I replaced and see what happens there. All I have left is switch I guess......
  6. Only things I've done is replaced turn signal housing and a running light plug. Been running fine for a couple weeks now. Was on my way to work, driving along minding my own business, I hear a "POP" and there go my dash and tail lights. Replaced fuse, it immediately popped again. I've checked all bulbs, pulled inst. cluster, rechecked the connections on the above mentioned things I've done, all looks good. Could it be the switch? Mine looks good. I've pulled a switch apart (not this one) and the are very simple which makes me think if it was the switch I'd lose all lights (every other light on car works). Fuse only pops when I turn on running (first click) lights. I'm at a loss here. I hate electrical spoob.
  7. 1: Yes on the weber. 2: No need for the EA82 intake. 3: You will still need the adaptor plate. 4: No idea on the rockauto radiator or using the EA82 radiator. Gloyale would know better than I would. That dude has forgotten more than i'll ever know about old subies.
  8. That manager is a "tool" and so wrong on so many levels.
  9. Can't have too many pics, but i'm gonna try! http--,,--// http--,,--// Oh yeah, I also Plasti-Dip the front and back bumpers.
  10. A few more http--,,--// http--,,--// Bra hasn't been on for awhile so the fit is a little off 'till it stretches out.
  11. All cleaned up. http--,,--// http--,,--// Recently replaced: ball joints tie rod ends brakes all 'round replaced broken Y pipe alignment and cleaned cleaned cleaned!
  12. ^ Hey you, the poster above this, yeah you. I think you have one of the coolest names on the board.
  13. Blue/yellow wired don't actually plug into the ignition except for the plastic bit sliding on the barrel cut out I mentioned. The other end hooks into a male/female connection under the dash, a little bigger around than a pencil. Wrong part is entirely possible as I've never heard of anyone coming across a NOS switch. his best bet is going to be a used one. There is an '83 wagon being parted out on this board that would work if the wagon has tilt collum.
  14. Those wouldn't come with the new assembly. Hope they still have the old ones, If not it won't affect anything. I never hooked mine ('85 Brat) back up as I find door chimes annoying.
  15. if it's what I'm thinking of, they should be attached to a black plastic piece with a U shaped piece of copper in it. There is a cut out on the bottom of the barrel that it slides into
  16. Maybe stick it down with some Liquid nails (that sploob is tough) then fill in the holes? I'm guessing you want a smooth one piece look?
  17. As far as your 1st. option, haven't heard of anyone having any luck with that. It would be a real shame to liner your trim if it is in nice shape. If it's beat to spoob, go for it. knock out as many dents/dings as you can. Maybe use some body filler to smooth it out and line away!
  18. As I was saying, Plasti-Dip is amazing. Use it on your bumpers, it holds up well.
  19. Didn't see any mention in your post, is the fan kicking on?
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