jonas

Hot!

sold for $700.00. a deal IMO...

i didn't need to pull the wheel..... yanked and put in when i changed my bulbs last weekend. '85 brat gl.

first time it took me all day as i was learning as i went. this time only took me about four hours or so. not hard tho, just alot of taking things apart/cleaning/putting back together.

yeah, i did think LED. but i figured the cost of swapping all those bulbs to LED, never mind finding compatible ones, or adapting, wasn't worth it. the regular bulbs are plenty bright for me, and cheap! now i am considering swapping the glove box and dome light to LED. i would like those oned to be brighter...

i've thought about blue but the guages have a yellow backing on them that, as far as i can tell, can't be removed, leaving red as my only option. on the other hand, blue bulbs may give you a nice blue/green. if i had a junk cluster i could experiment. i did take a Magic Marker (red) to the yellow backing to aid in the color change...

found some red bulbs. place i got them from only stocked two packs at a time, so it took several weeks get the necessary amount. when i did the wagon i didn't use colored bulbs. i used a Magic Marker to "paint" them red. what i found is that over time, the red from the MM faded leaving the color uneven.

did this to my wagon awhile back and liked the results. this go 'round came out better IMO.. changed the dome light too. from the outside. looks waayyyyyy cooler in person... very pleased with the results and myself. only lost one bulb into the bowels of the dash....

i wanna see that. McBrat has something like that.

i have those. both sides, riveted on. nice shape, no fading. you're on the other side of the country tho. you should be able to find something closer. i'd send you the cat, but you can find those EVERYWHERE!

sorry, sort of a hijack here but has anyone tried those non-toxic coolants? reason i ask is i have alot of animals and even tho i'm really carefull with my coolant changes i usually do manage to spill/slop some.

^ Haha!

i was just thinking about this. my lifted brat rears are softer than i like. i was thinking of airs w/ a small onboard tank for when i'm not around an air source.

Man, wish i could go. you guys will be going right thru Eugene....

i'll pm you my shipping info later......

Hey congrats! Another Cancer monkey!! My oldest boy turned 18 last May. Man the time goes fast!

very cool! :cool:

cool!!!!!!!!!!out of direct, or even partial sunlight of course! put some of those sillica packs in with it. you know, those little pillow packs that come with new shoes that say "DO NOT EAT." since when do new shoes come with a snack anyways? you do realize that since they have seen fit to put "DO NOT EAT" on those sillica packs only means someone has.......

well, my speedometer bounces all over the place. really want to replace the cable 'cause it bugs the ************ outta me. now if i can't get it to read accurate, why bother i'm wondering. is there a certain gear/cable i can get to compensate for the tire size?

well, i'm thinking about having it professionally done. i've never done it. not scared to, but there isn't much that looks worse than a bad tint job. i may be able to get a discount at the place my employer uses for all the glass/logo work on the fleet.

*FREE TIP* if your's is an aftermarket rack, use male/female connectors to the power and ground wires in the area i circled. you cant see mine because of the wire casing. that way if you need to remove your rack for any reason (selling car and want to keep rack, or waxing, for example) you can easily unclip at that point, leaving the lights wired up, connected to the rack. no cutting of wires, no muss, no fuss!

mine does the same thing. runs closer to the body the farther down it goes. i only used the wire casing about half way down the gutter. you should be able to use a flat head screwdriver to push the wires in along the tight part of the gutter. it's just a lip and should open up once you get past the tight part. at least on my EA81 wagon it's like that. don't see yours being much different. just saw your pic. a screwdriver should work fine. like i said, it should open up once it gets past the tight part. look down by where the gutter ends at the door/fender. you should be able to feel w/your finger if it is hollow.

any of you guys do it? been thinking about it on the brat, but not really sure if i would like it. i know my wagon is getting it someday. wagons look good w/tint! bring on the pics if you got 'em!

running 15's on my '85 brat. just wondering what you guys do to get the speedometer to read accurately, or do you even care? i'm fairly accurate (followed the woman around at various speeds, and just go with traffic) just guessing my speed, but i like things to be working correctly, needed or not. the little things tend to drive me nuts.

here's how i ran the wires on my '84 wagons Yakima rack. rack & lights. rear shot wires bundled together and ran down the rack tower to gutter. stuffed into gutter. never have had a problem of them comming out. wires all wrapped up and not one hole drilled. zip ties are your friend.