Legacy777

Thanks Chris!

Thanks guys, I appreciate you keeping your eyes out for it. Yeah, hopefully they'll find it in tact.

I don't know if this is the best spot to put this, but my brother's 1996 legacy wagon was stolen from the transit center in Northgate, just north of Seattle. It's a white second gen legacy wagon without hub caps. The license plate is AJT6707. Here are some pictures below. It no longer has the bra on the front. If you see it, please post and call the police as the car has been reported stolen. http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/96legacy If you all could keep your eyes out on craigslist or around, We'd greatly appreciate it! Thanks & happy 4th!

Glad to hear the tachometer problem was a simple fix.

You're very welcome! I hope the print outs help you out. In looking at the diagrams, see if you can determine where the ECU and tachometer/gauge cluster are grounded. Once you find that you can use a multi-meter to check the resistance between those points and the negative terminal of the battery and check the resistance of the ground wiring.

I can't say whether all the wiring diagrams will match up, but here you go The PDF's should be "searchable" so you can more easily find stuff. http://main.experiencetherave.com/kia/2000_Kia_Sephia_Service_Info.zip

Do you have a wiring diagram of the car? On the newer cars with ECU's the tachometer signal is coming directly from the ECU. If the car is running fine then the issue is either the wiring from the ECU/ground to the tachometer or something with the tachometer itself.

I've never replaced an oil pump on an EJ series motor, only disassembled and reassembled because everything looked good. The thing that happens on the EJ series motors is the screws on the backing plate can loosen, which can cause oil pressure to drop. When I reassemble the pump, I put a small dab of locktite on those screws to help prevent them from backing out in the future. So if the oil pump is a similar design to Subaru's you could remove the pump, inspect it and reinstall if everything looks good. To be on the safe side you could get a new pump if it's not too expensive and rebuild/clean the old one as a spare.

I did a quick search and for the North American markets it's suggested to replace the timing belt every 60k miles. Kia may do this for warranty purposes, but based on the miles you've put on it, I'd suggest replacing it whenever you have the appropriate funds. Regarding the oil pump, unless it's a known problem on those motors, it should be alright and not needed to be replaced. You may want to search online to see if others with the same engine/car have had oil pump issues. If not, I wouldn't bother replacing it.

Ok, thanks for the info on the video editing software, I appreciate it!

It's the black triangular piece just in front of the window. You can see it in this picture.

You were really revving that Kia motor What software did you use to make the video?

What does the other side look like? Can you give us dimensions or take another picture with it next to something of a known scale. Depending on the size, it's probably the black triangle trim piece on the inside of the car that goes where the mirror attaches to the door.

Again, great work and documentation of the swap!

Going to move this to the old gen forum; you should get some more comments there.

This diagram is rather busy and may not be of much help: http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/ACwiringdiag.jpg However, what Fairtax4me posted is correct for the older (early to mid 90's Subaru's). The HVAC panel AC output "request" actually goes to the ECU, and then the ECU has an AC clutch output that goes to the AC clutch on the compressor. This is done so the ECU can adjust idle speed when the AC is on and so it can cut the AC when throttle reaches 90-100%. Do you know what year/model the motor & wiring is from?

Again, great documentation and pictures. Glad to hear you got the dual-diaphragm booster installed and it sounds like it's working pretty good!

Glad to hear you at least figured out what the problem was. I don't know how the boosters are on the Kia's, but I personally am not a big fan of the tandem diaphragm boosters on the Subaru's. The pedal has a "dead" area near the top where nothing really happens with the braking, and then the pedal firms up. I have replaced my tandem diaphragm booster with a single diaphragm booster and much prefer the linear and firmer pedal feel. Keep us posted on how things go after the replacement.

What engine RPM did you notice the change in pedal feel? Was it at a lower RPM or a little bit higher? The reason I ask is because you did a bit of mountain driving and the ECU's typically have a barometric sensor that adjusts air-fuel-ratio based on atmospheric pressure. When you come back down to a lower elevation the AFR's should change, but the ECU has stored fuel trim information from running at higher elevations. This could in turn cause some lower rpms at idle and that can affect engine vacuum....which powers the brake booster. That's a shot in the dark, but if it continues, you may consider resetting the ECU.

Awesome pictures! Thanks for sharing.

Awesome work and research on the master cylinder! I think when you get the rear discs on the pedal travel will increase a very slight amount, but the braking performance should be more consistent. I ran across a similar issue over 10 years ago when I swapped WRX front calipers on my Legacy. The pedal travel increased and altered how the car stopped. I did a bunch of research and the SVX was the only othe Subaru that was non-abs and had the larger 1-1/16" bore master cylinder. I ended up swapping that in and it helped the pedal feel and travel. I have since swapped to a single diaphragm brake booster from early model Impreza and that has improved the pedal feel even more. Keep us posted when you swap the rear discs.

Good deal! Enjoy the car and take some pictures to post

Welcome to the USMB

Welcome to the USMB. I don't have any recommendations on the seat covers, but hopefully someone else will chime in.

Welcome to the USMB. I'm going to move your thread to the new gen forum.