Legacy777

Welcome to the USMB.

Welcome to the USMB. I'm going to move your thread to the new gen forum where it will get some more visibility. I also don't recommend AAMCO...I've heard too many horror stories.

The lights may not be hooked up to the alarm system. You would need to verify that they are hooked into the alarm and programmed to flash. Is this the factory alarm system or an aftermarket one?

Just an FYI, most people incorrectly read the tach on the dash. The small weighted hash mark just below 1,000 rpm is 750 rpm, while the darker hash just above 0 is 500 rpm. You can see what I'm talking about in this picture of my tach.

Ok, yeah then it should be relatively easy to fix. A shop with a lift can remove the center carrier bearing support which will allow them to pull the driveline out to replace the seal. If it's just the seal and you have a competant shop I really can't see it taking more than an hour, two hours tops. I'm sure there's got to be some Subaru shops in Austin. Cobb Tuning is based out of there, and while they focus on the performance market, they should be able to do something like this if you can't find anyone reasonable to do it. Additionally, you may want to ask for a decent shop in the Austin area on the TXIC forums. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=29

Welcome to the USMB It really depends on what you're looking for. The 2.5i is going to be more economical and spatious, but I'm sure the STi will be A LOT more fun to drive.

Welcome to the USMB. The idle fluctuation may be related to the air fuel ratio being off a little bit. The ECU does a lot of the air fuel calcs and look up table stuff from the reading it gets with the coolant temp sensor. If you have the original in the car, I'd suggest replacing it as preventative measures. They're not too much; around $25 USD.

Welcome to the USMB. You may want to post these questions in the old gen forum. It gets a little more traffic and I'm sure folks can provide with some things to look for.

Welcome to the USMB and hopefully we can help with your problems

Welcome to the USMB.

Welcome to the USMB.

Jimmy, Welcome to the USMB. It may just be that the seal is bad and needs to be replaced. If it's just the seal, it shouldn't be a major issue. The drive line would need to be removed, the old seal removed and the new seal put in. Just to clarify, you are talking about the rear drive line/shaft and not the CV axles?

There is a code reader in the ignition key lock assembly that reads the code. You have to use Subaru keys with the chip in it. You should be able to get a replacement key at the Subaru dealer and they will have to program the key to match your ignition.

The vacuum or hissing may be related to how the dual fuel setup works. I am not familar with them, so I'm not sure how much I can help. I guess check the fuel lines like you plan to.

Welcome to the USMB. What tank are you referring to, the gasoline tank or the pressurized LPG tank?

Do you smell fuel after cranking for a long time? I wouldn't discount the engine temp sensor. It plays a huge role in the air fuel ratio calcs and start-up/warm up enrichments. You could try unplugging the coolant temp sensor electrical connector and then try starting the car to see if that makes any difference. Additionally, the coolant temp sensors aren't that much, around $25 at one of the online subaru parts dealers.

Just because it hasn't been used much doesn't mean it won't be good. However, it wouldn't hurt to look over the car in person to make sure everything looks good and is in good working order. It sounds like you have a plan and if it's in good condition and your budget I'm sure it'd be an enjoyable car to drive.

Welcome to the USMB. Do you recall when you first noticed this problem? Are you able to correlate any maintenance or something that may have happened? Besides the work you've listed above, have you tried replacing anything else or done any other troubleshooting to diagnose the problem? Does it always crank and just not fire? Is this a MT or AT? If it's a MT, if you try and push the car and pop clutch will the engine start? Have you had your battery and alternator checked recently? Most autoparts stores will check them for free.

Welcome to the USMB. In general the turbo Subarus require a bit more maintenance so that's something to keep in mind if you're looking to get this car. Are there any service records or other information you've reviewed from the seller? What are the reasons you want to get this car and what are some of your general concerns? If you can provide any additional details/info that would be helpful in providing advice.

Welcome to the USMB! Nice looking Legacy! There are members from all over the world on the USMB, but the majority are probably in North America. Again, welcome!

Welcome to the USMB!

Ok, no worries.

If it came from a 98 2.5 RS, it should be 4.444 Here is the info from the FSM. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/1998_impreza_rear_diff_info.pdf

Moved

Welcome to the USMB. I'm going to move your post to the new gen forum where it may get some more views. So what parts did you reuse and which did you get new? What brand of parts did you use for anything that you replaced?