Legacy777

You will need to plug in the wastegate solenoid or you can use an AT dropping resistor in place of it. http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=48079 The ECU can be cranky sometimes with the canister purge solenoid code. If you have a spare you can plug in just to keep the ECU happy, I'd recommend it. What are you doing now to control idle speed, and are you using the ej22t manifold so you could use the IAC valve? Did you perform the active code check with the green diagnostic connectors? I have a hunch that you may get a speed sensor code after the car has driven for a little bit. That's what happened with me. I would clear the code, and it eventually came back, but not right away.

There may be something out there you can use to flush the radiator, but I'm not really sure of anything. My suggestion, and you probably won't want to hear this is to have the headgaskets fixed, cooling system flushed and put a new radiator in. The heater core may be plugged or could plug over time. I highly discourage using those quick fix's in a bottle as they only prolong the inevitable and usually cause more issues in the long run.

If the turbo was starved of oil, I would think the engine itself should be ok as long as the turbo didn't spit a bunch of stuff into the oil and the engine sucked it back up. Worst case, the oil pump might need to be replaced as the oil goes from the pan to the pump to the filter. You can pull the turbo inlet elbow off and see if there is any shaft play on the compressor wheel. Also, see if it spins freely and look for oil. You can find used TD04's for pretty cheap on NASIOC, probably $100 or less.

Welcome to the USMB. I would try one of the online subaru parts dealers, www.subarugenuineparts.com www.subaruparts.com www.1stsubaruparts.com Or you could try posting a WTB thread in the marketplace or on the parts shed on the legacycentral bbs. http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewforum.php?f=15 This thread may also be helpful http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=36434

I have not had to change any of mine out yet, so don't have any direct experience, but I do believe you are correct in that the actuator is part of the lock mechanism. My best suggestion for removing it is to make sure the push rod going to the door handle (inside and outside) are removed or at least loose so you can wiggle the lock mechanism out of the door for further investigation to see if you can just swap the solenoid or have to swap the entire lock assembly.

Steve, You've got one of the pins incorrect. The read memory connectors (black connectors) should be pin B56-pin12 The test memory connectors (green connectors) should be pin B56-pin13 Redo your wiring and then ground the read memory connector pin to see what codes come up. Then groundthe test memory connector pin afterwards. The proper procedure for the test memory check is on my site, www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html

Yes, it's an O2 sensor. this thread may be helpful. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/61063-subaru-2000-outback-error-code-p1133/

Welcome to the USMB. The shift lock solenoid is controlled by the shift lock controller by a swtich coming from the brake pedal. it's possible the solenoid, the controller, or the switch may be bad. My suggestion would be to just continue using the screwdriver until you get home and can have a shop look at it. You won't hurt anything by using the screwdriver to get it out of park.

Welcome to the USMB. The other thing I would suspect is that the paint may have not been fully cured when the shield was put on. When was the car manufactured (should be listed on the plate in the door jam) and when did you get and have the bug shield installed?

Bill, You could check the TCU for codes. That's the main "electronic" thing. If the TCU comes back with no codes, then the problem is probably internal to the transmission. Here are the instructions to pull the codes if you don't already have them. http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/trans.html

Welcome to the USMB. As mentioned, when was the last time a tune-up or engine inspection/check has been done. The problem could be something as simple as it being low on coolant, to the fans not working, or even a head gasket issue. Does the car run ok when on level ground? I'm going to move your thread to the New forum where it will get a little more traffic.

Steve, As I mentioned in the BBS thread. Did you connect the diagnostic connectors when you had the test light hooked up? What you described sounds like normal operation of the CEL with the diagnostic connectors not hooked up. I agree with presslab, you need to get a functional CEL working on your dash as well as make sure the diagnostic connectors (black & green) are able to be connected properly to aid in troubleshooting. Doing anything else before you can do those things is a futile effort and not worth your time or effort.

The actual neutral switch is in the transmission. However if what they adjusted/tweaked is related to when you depress the clutch pedal, that's something completely different. If they just jumpered the neutral safety switch under the car it shouldn't be too big a deal to just plug in the connector again, but without knowing what exactly they did, I don't know if we can accurately tell you what needs to be done.

You're welcome. Let us know how things go and if the temp switch works.

Welcome to the USMB! You may want to post any specific questions you have in the new gen forum as it tends to get a little more traffic. Hopefully you can get the mirror back on and back to enjoying the forester.

You need to try and get the check engine light setup so you can pull the codes from the ECU. There's no point in trying to guess. You can make your own check engine light by just running 12v to one end of a test light and then run the other end to connector F47, pin 19 (check engine light). These pin outs may help if you don't already have them. http://www.surrealmirage.com/vrg3/ecupins/ I will say that if you do not have a speed input going to the ECU it will most likely cause you some sort of weirdness and issues. I don't know if it will limit your boost, but if there's any way you can get a speed input to the ECU, I would recommend doing that.

Yes, I have read whether others have had to replace that evaporator temperature switch. I am pretty sure they got the switch from the dealer. If the system is already pressured up, you can cut the wires going to the controller unit on top of the evaporator box and splice the wires into the new controller unit. Make sure to note the orientation of the wiring if you do this. You could try a used one if you can easily find one. Is the compressor kicking on at all, or is the compressor running and it's just not cooling?

My suggestion would be to try and find another used transmission. I think you'd spend more labor and time trying to replace the diff. The pinion shaft will have to be replaced as well, which may require further disassmebly of the transmission. Plus the diff backlash settings will need to be set, so it's a much more involved process than just swapping a differential. As for compatible transmissions, I'm not sure what the final drive ratio is on the outback. If you have your owner's manual, I'd look in there and see if it has the specs on the final drive ratio. If you don't have the manual, can try searching on http://techinfo.subaru.com/index.html in the online reference section. Alternatively, you can look on the differential itself. Look on page two of this scan and it'll show you where the marking on the rear diff will be. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/1997_impreza_rear_diff_info.pdf Hope that helps.

Welcome to the USMB! I'm going to close this thread and direct further replies to your other thread in the new gen forum so all the replies are consolidated in one thread vs. two. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/139253-automatic-transmission-compatibility-for-2002-impreza-outback-sport/ Thanks

Welcome to the USMB! There should be no issue with you using a clock spring off another Forester. There is no matching with serial numbers or any of that. If want to buy a new one, I'd suggest getting it from one of the online subaru dealers. They are SUBSTANTIALLY cheaper than local dealers. Here a couple: www.subarugenuineparts.com www.subaruparts.com www.1stsubaruparts.com The one thing I would caution you about though is the airbag. Make sure to disconnect the battery and leave the car sit with the door open or something for a few minutes to completely discharge the electrical system. That way there's no chance of the airbag accidently going off. You may have to have the dealer reset the airbag computer so the light goes off, but I'm not 100% sure about that. I'm going to move your thread to the New gen forum as it will get more traffic there and additional replies.

Welcome to the USMB!

I would suggest hooking up the neutral switch to the transmission, assuming it has one. The ECU could throw a CEL if it's not hooked up. Yes, the pressure or MAP sensor has the triangular shaped connector. Yes you need the pressure exchange solenoid as well. It switches the MAP sensor between atmosphere & intake manifold. This allows the ECU to get barometric pressure readings. F47-18 you don't need to worry about it. It's part of the factory diagnostic connections. You can see the full ECU pin out list here: http://www.surrealmirage.com/vrg3/ecupins/ If I had a preference, I'd prefer to have the ECU in the cabin vs. the engine compartment because of the moisture, dirt, and heat. The stock ECU case is not water, dust, etc proof. So if you put it in the engine compartment I'd almost suggest getting a sealable case of some sorts that you can put it in. If you're going to do that, I'd put the relays in there as well. The igniter, MAP sensor, & pressure exchange solenoid are fine to be in the elements.

Please post any further follow up in the Meet & Greet forum thread. Thanks http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/139157-national-television-network-seeks-subaru-owners-who-are-innovative-teachers/

Yes you still need to keep the pressure sensor. Can you clarify what you are calling the tranny switches? Are you referring to the AT/MT identifier switch on the ECU?

When you replace the MAP sensor how long does the code go away? Have you done any checks on the wiring or tested the MAP sensor with a multimeter to see if it checks out ok?