Legacy777
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Everything posted by Legacy777
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Looks like a nice Legacy! Welcome to the USMB. -
How are they secured, by double stick tape?
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The mounting brackets/hardware is probably slightly different, but if the overall light shape & dimensions are the same, you could probably fab something up to work. Hopefully someone else has some direct experience they can share.
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Welcome to the USMB. I haven't run across you issue before, but have you tried clearing the ECU's memory by disconnecting the battery for an hour or so?
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I don't have any experience with the OBX headers, but the headers shouldn't affect emissions testing. Hopefully someone can chime in that has some experience with OBX.
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Welcome to the USMB. I'm going to move your thread to the retrofitting forum.
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With only the black connectors connected, the ECU will show stored/history codes. With only the green connectors connected, the ECU will show "active" codes. To clear the ECU memory/codes, you connect both the black & green connectors. I've got the specific procedure for the active code check & memory clear on my site. www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html
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Do you get a code 22 with just the black connectors connected?
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Try swapping the pins between the front and rear on the coil pack and see if the front two cylinders start firing or not. That will confirm whether the coil is working properly or not.
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Welcome to the USMB. Hopefully someone can point you to some info about those transmission specs. I unfortunately don't have any info on the overseas transmissions, but if you aren't able to get any help here, I'd suggest also checking out www.rslibertyclub.org/forums
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Below are the testing procedures from the factory manual. Have you run through these checks yet? http://www.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/TPS_testing1.jpg http://www.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/TPS_testing2.jpg http://www.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/TPS_testing3.jpg The third page test/scan is the only adjustment you can do on the TPS. Check the other tests, and then check the idle switch and adjust it if necessary. If you still have issues and everything is within spec, then I'd check the wiring from the TPS to the ECU.
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Welcome to the USMB. I'm going to move your thread to the Old gen forum. It'll get some more views over there.
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Welcome to the USMB!
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Typical vapor lock in the fuel line is pretty much uncommon with fuel injected vehicles if everything is working properly. Have you tried the "opening the gas cap & relieving pressure" trick more than once? Does doing that work every time?
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Welcome to the USMB. No, what you described doesn't sound normal. I would first suggest checking the fuses to make sure they are all good.
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You're welcome.
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I've found that sometimes the sensor can still be bad and read in spec. So just something to keep in mind when you're testing. Try testing it at cold and hot temps.
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Have you contacted Delta cam about this? If not, it might be a good idea to see what they say.
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Yes I was referring to the engine coolant temp sensor. Sorry I must have missed that you already replaced it.
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Greetings from Murray, UT!
Legacy777 replied to gbowler300's topic in Meet n' Greet. Your USMB Welcome Center
Welcome to the USMB! -
Are you referring to the canister purge and charcoal canister setup? The canister purge solenoid should be normally closed. The wiring diagrams in here may not be 100%, but should be close. http://www.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/2000+_Legacy_FSM/
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What engine was this being used in and what cam grind were you running? Did that rocker assembly & solid lifters come in that engine from the factory or did you swap it into your engine?
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I changed the title of your thread to more accurately reflect your problem. I think checking fuel pressure and/or replacing the fuel filter are good troubleshooting steps. The temp sensor may also be a good thing to replace. I've seen more times that they fail the other way and work fine when hot, but not when cold. They are pretty cheap to replace, so it may not be a bad idea to just replace it since the ECU has a lot of engine temperature related correction factors built into it.
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Welcome to the USMB. Do you hear a click or anything like that when you turn the key from the ON position to the START position?
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Yes, I believe the pedal box will likely be different. Are you planning to use a cable clutch or hydraulic clutch?
