Legacy777

Welcome to the USMB. When the car won't start, do you hear a click coming from the starter area?

The springs will have slightly different spring rates, but are compatible between the two models.

Just to clarify the rear struts are what are different. The front struts are more or less the same.

Are you asking what the most typical oversized bearings are? I would think you can probably get bearings in either .020" or .040" oversized.

Welcome to the USMB!

Welcome to the USMB. For a slightly more "performance" oriented alignment I like -1.0 degrees of camber in the front and rear and 0 toe front and rear. A small amount of rear toe out will give the car a little bit of a twitchy feel, but will be a little more responsive with initial turn in.

That's good to know our cars respond better to the retrofit. It's been a while since I've put the gauges on my car to see where the pressures sit. I should probably do that before it gets too aweful hot here in Houston.

Thanks for sharing the chart. I agree that the 12a is a closer match to the original R12 refrigerent. But, it appears that there is only a single digit difference between the R12 & R134a vapor pressure until around 108 deg F, and maxes out at 18 psi difference at 129 deg F. Is that a huge difference and enough to cause poor operation of the AC system.....I don't know.

Thanks for the follow up. Sometimes there's just not much you can do for an auto trans other than rebuilding it or swapping in a different one.

I have not used the R12 alternatives, so i can't comment on them, but I can tell you from first hand experience that there is little to no noticable reduction in cooling capacity by using roughly 80% r134a of the original R12 capacity. As mentioned, the converted system in my Legacy cools better than the original r134a system in my Impreza. I agree with capn_r, there may be some confusion on evacuation and pulling a vacuum on the system. Kenny, once you've cleaned the system, changed the oil, and have the system sealed back up, you need to pull a deep vacuum on the system to boil off any moisture that may be left in there. I typically will pull a vacuum for 45-60 minutes, close the system, make sure there are no leaks and then charge the system. If you do not have a vacuum pump and gauges, I'd suggest doing all the work up until that point and then take it to a shop to pull a vacuum and charge the system. Based on my own personal experience I'd double check and confirm with them the amount of time they plan to pull a vacuum on the system, and inform them of the amount of refrigerant you want the system charged to.

Capn_r, yes the Legacy has a trinary switch on the receiver drier. kenny, When you say the r12 was completely evacuated, did you have a shop do it? If so, what exactly did they do? The old mineral oil isn't compatible with r134a. Was the old oil removed and new oil put in?

Welcome to the USMB! An STi as a company car isn't too shabby

Check out my r134a conversion thread on the legacycentral bbs. http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=1083 I'm not a huge fan of those "easy & quick" conversion kits. They just don't work well. A properly converted r134a setup works very well. I'm in Houston and have similar humid weather as Florida. The AC in my 90 Legacy works better than my 97 Impreza.

Welcome to the USMB!

I don't know if there is any difference among the 99 Outbacks, but as you pointed out, it looks like Subaru went to a larger sub and probably more powerful amp with the newer sub setup. That larger one looks similar to ones I've seen in a friend's 00 Impreza RS, so I would guess that the larger sub is what the 99 and newer Outbacks got.

Welcome to the USMB. I'm going to move your post to the New Gen forum so it gets some more exposure. As for replacement glass, I'd check any local junkyards or www.car-part.com That's probably going to be your best bet.

Can you get under or in the side area of the bed? If so I'd run the wiring in/along there so it's out of the weather, but if that's not possible put wiring loom around the wires and zip tie / mount the wiring so it can't be snagged by debris brushing on the underside of the car. Also, make sure to use rubber grommets to seal the entrance/exit point in the cabin.

Ok, thanks for the clarification on the mounting point for the clutch slave cylinder.

Welcome to the USMB.

Welcome to the USMB!

Not an old gen owner, but I'm in Houston.

Welcome to the USMB. Hopfully some others will chime in for the cruise.

I haven't dealt with this, but doesn't the clutch slave cylinder mount to a point on the engine bell housing? If so, if that's not there on the older engines, that'll cause an issue.

It's backwards, the turbos used a pull clutch setup, while the non-turbos used a push style clutch setup. This was the case until about 2006 or so and then the WRX 5spds starting using the push style clutch setup as well.

The final drive ratio in your 91 AWD 5MT is 4.11. The main difference/change that occured in the mid-to-late 90's is that the number of bolts between the engine & transmission increased from 4 to 8. When this happened they no longer had the lower stud for the starter. So if you use one of those transmissions you'll need to add a stud. This is what I did for my 6spd swap Starter – Since the newer motors have an 8-bolt setup vs. the older 4-bolt setup, you'll need to do something for the lower starter mount hole. The best option is to use an M14x1.5 bolt aprox 40-45 mm long. You'll need to tap the lower bolt hole on the trans and drill out the lower bolt hole on the starter to 9/16". More info can be found in this thread. You may also need the newer style starter, I'm not 100% sure. I needed the newer style starter for my 6spd swap. The other difference is the shifter joint is different. You'll need to either swap your old joint on the new transmission, which isn't a big deal, or upgrade to the newer style linkage, again not a huge issue. Lastly, you'll need to unscrew the speed sensor from the transmission and screw the piece in that attaches to the cable. Those are the big items I can think of. The wiring should be the same. The connector at the top of the transmission may be two 2-pin connectors vs. one 4-pin connector. However the actual sensors in the transmission are the same so you can just remove the harness from your transmission and put it on the newer transmission so you don't need to jack with the wiring. I don't know if the exhaust mounting bracket is different, but again, you should be able to just remove the one from your older transmission and put it on the newer one. I'd suggest sticking with a transmission that is no newer that early 2000's. I don't know when, but Subaru did away with speed sensors in the transmission and used the abs tone sensors for speed input. So if you get a transmission without the speed sensor in it, then you will have issues. Hope that helps.