Legacy777

I finally got a hold of someone at a few dealerships yesterday and they confirmed what theotherskip posted.... three bond part # 004403007 BTW....excellent info in that scan....I think I'll be swiping it

you will typically get some oil seapage from the right rear cam o-ring, oil filler o-ring, and the valve cover gasket bolt grommets. Very simple, easy, and cheap to replace. Those are the big oil leaker spots.....so if you see oil around those spots, I wouldn't be too worried

ok....I do have a question about the sealant of the oil pump. I've been trying to get my hands on the three bond or whatever subaru uses. I don't think the ultra grey stuff is anerobic. I have some stuff that is.....but I'm not sure if it's exactly what I want. The damn sealant is holding me up from doing the t-belt.

I needed the caliper brackets, caliper, rotors, & brakes from the WRX. The stock proportioning valve is not adjustable, and most if not all aftermarket valves will not work because subaru uses a diagonal braking circuit for redundancy. What I did was use the prop valve for a legacy wagon. It bumped the split point about 100 psi, which gave me slightly more rear brake torque when at or above the split point. I personally wouldn't recommend you mess with the proportioning valve, since some of the other subaru valves have completely different split points and reducing ratios......which could cause some serious braking problems. The MC I am using is a 1 1/16" bore 4-port MC from a non-abs SVX. The 1" bore MC had too much pedal travel due to the increase in volume needed by the larger calipers. Pretty much all ABS equipped legacies have a 1 1/16" bore MC. It is however a 2-port vs. 4-port MC since the lines branch off at the abs pump.

try getting some of that crc brake quieter stuff. The red stuff. Or try the stuff in the little packet....all it is, is silicone...

i've got wrx front brakes on my 90 legacy, so you will not have any issues with fitment. The only thing that can arise is that your brake bias will be messed with a little. For the WRX guys the most common upgrade is the H6 rear rotor upgrade which shifts brake bias to the rear to help the nose dive affect. I had some pretty severe issues when i swapped the WRX front brakes on my car. I've since messed with master cylinders and proportioning valves, but am going to be getting some B4/GT-B rear brakes. They have the same diameter rotor as the H6 rear brakes, however are vented.

no prob.....I've got quite a bit of info in those links.....enjoy

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans direct links http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/ECU_I-O_page1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/ECU_I-O_page2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/ECU_I-O_page3.jpg

also might be able to find info at http://techinfo.subaru.com

go to my site, engine related and pull the engine codes to see what is stored in there. Once you have the codes that showed up, clear the ECU, drive the car for a few days and see if the CEL comes back on. If it does, pull codes again and see which ones match up with before.

don't know....they just seem to be

here's pics of a lot of various sensors, including the cpv http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors

You can replace the starter solenoid contacts, if that's what it is. check an old thread of mine. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/usmb/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2447&perpage=25& there's pics later in the thread with what the contacts look like and where you can get them.

More then likely, codes 11 & 12 are bogus, and all you have issues with is the CPV solenoid. If that's the case, it's not a big deal, and can be replaced "relatively" easily.

yeah they are swappable. Remember though that there may be some programming differences in the TCU's between the different years, and that may give you some of the differences in how the tranny reacts.

hmm....doesn't give the full length....just the propeller shaft length from joint to joint.

the valve is calibrated, so if you do move the electro magnet portion....make sure you scribe where it sat.....it's one of those things I personally wouldn't mess with......reason.....you're fixing a symptom, not necessarily a problem....

yeah you nailed what I was wondering.....it'd be worth looking at it....however his problems sound a little different...

Can you rev the engine above 3100 rpm in neutral?

I'll try looking again when I get home.

try bumping it

The following is the correct info on the t legacy and first gen legacies. 1991-1994 turbo legacy is 3.9 AT & MT 1990-1991 legacies n/a MT & AT 4.111 1992-1994 legacies n/a MT 4.111 AT 3.900

info is on the http://www.need-desire.com site.

have a buddy that has this done on his t legacy and swears by it.

well....if you keep the front diff portion.....you could bolt it up....final drive ratios are different between n/a & turbo legacies.....depending on year. Also, the turbo legacy auto is a little more beefier. More clutch plates and such. may want to ask one http://www.bbs.legacycentral.org too.