Legacy777

All the touring wagons were autos. Only sedans came in 5spd. As for the trans swap, I'll let you read. http://legacycentral.org/library/transmission/convert.htm

coolant temp sensors http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2477.JPG http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2505.JPG Not sure when the change was made to one sensor however....but you should be able to look at the pics and then your car, and determine if there's two sensors or one.

Personally.......you're asking for a lot more headache this way....plus it's not exactly the safest method. Just take the strut out......it will give you more room to do things, and you'll be less likely to skin knuckles, and forget something.

I honestly doubt they are different from the US & canadian models. Everything I have read says it's a two part cat system....regardless what the dealer says. I'd probably do what you suggested and go with the carbon clean up even though it probably won't do much. The 90-94 legacies did not have egr valves btw....

if Ignition switch is bad.....you would most likely not hear any click from the starter solenoid. He's hearing a click and the solenoid plunger is engaging the ring gear. Typically if you have an ignition switch go out, you won't hear anything..... yes....no.....?

don't forget the fuel filter

it should....

I've already got one I added one a little over a year or so ago. here's a couple pics http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/spoiler1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/spoiler2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/spoiler3.jpg these are the most recent ones I got http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/legacyzymol

The clicking sound usually is a sign of bad solenoid contacts, but since you replaced the starter, it's probably not that. Check/clean the connection both on the battery terminals & the starter. If the problem still persists, you may want to run a secondary lead from the pos of the batter to the starter. If the problem goes away then the pos battery cable lead to the starter is probably bad and should be replaced.

hmmm....that is very bizarre. may want to ask this question over the legacycentral bbs. http://www.bbs.legacycentral.org there's some guys over there with more experience on air susp then myself.

where are the marks located that you're talking about? Here's the FSM's procedure for changing the t-belt http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt3.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt4.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt5.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt6.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt7.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt8.jpg

doh....

need-desire.com

subaru uses a two stage cat converter. So if the previous owner removed the second cat and left the front one, the catalyst system is not complete and not properly doing its job. You could put a generic one on in place of the second one, and that should work fine. The guy was right, NOx is high heat, and the possible causes he suggested are on the money. You might be able to run some special cleaner through which would help you pass.

yeah...I remember that post

Oppie, I have the yellow top battery. I forget the actual part #, but it's the one with dual post terminals. alias, no I don't use armoral or anything like that. This picture just happened to be after I just wiped the engine down with wet rag. I have used some stuff in the past, but it's silicone free. I normally don't like to put anything on because then dirt sticks to it, and it's a slimey mess.....

yes, take it back to aamco.... also, for future reference....don't take your car to aamco....they suck. Try and find an independant trans shop. What area of the country do you live in?

Where in, what manual did you read the info? In the links I provided on page 1 of the testing procedure it gives 4.7 closed 1.6 open You're in the ball park, so it should be fine. Other thing you want to check is that the resistance changes smoothly as you open & close the throttle. If everything checks out.....I'd say your tps is fine.

damn....that's crazy

It's a HO alternator built by a place in dallas. I got it from ruiner on Nasioc. max output is 160 amps I don't recall exact amount....I keep forgetting if it was 300 or 400......think 300..... It uses the new subaru alternator style casing instead of the old one. Difference is the pos output lead is further towards the passenger side, which is why I had to extend the leads. Here's the alternator's birth certificate. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/techinfo/HOalternatortest.jpg in these pics you can see old vs new Old alternator http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/alternatorlead.jpg New alternator http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/hoalternator1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/hoalternator2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/hoalternator3.jpg

There's no real application for the legacy. The only issue you'll run into is that the optima sits a little lower then the normal one......it's a little wider, and the positive lead for the battery may need to be stretched slightly......

glad you found some info. This was the thread I was thinking of http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4777&highlight=vacuum+test

That amperage isn't too bad.... How many miles are on the car? Is the alternator original? I'd highly recommend you replace the battery with a yellow top. When I was going to school in PA, I killed my battery.....got a normal battery.....it worked....however stereo never sounded as good, and I had light dimming or other weird issues.....killed that battery in a year......said screw it, bought the yellow top, and was quite amazed at how everything just seemed to 'brighten up' The optima yellow top is a starting/deep cylce battery. It is not a normal deep cylce and will be more then enough to start your car. Like I said, I lived in PA for 4 years while going to college and even during the coldest winters the optima started the car fine. The only time I'd say the car started slowly was when I leave the car sit for 2-4 weeks and then started it up...this was during winter. The car still started fine, just slower then it normally did....no biggy.... Go with the battery first....If you have high miles, it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to get a remaned alternator as well. Both of those things should help you out a lot.

if you have stock struts on your car with that mileage, they are WAY over due to be replaced. Jack it up, and check for any visible signs of broken stuff or things that just don't look right. If everything looks ok, replace the struts.....I'm telling you, you will be absolutely amazed.

Sounds like you just have way too much electrical equipment for the electrical system. What battery do you have, is the alternator stock? Has it ever been replaced? I wouldn't recommend messing with idle stuff like that. Unless this is for when you're doing work outside the vehicle and need the lights....and if that's the case, just stick a small something between the throttle stop screw throttle linkage. Really, you should have an optima yellow top if you don't.....and possibly two for all that stuff. Also, your alternator probably could used to be replaced if it's still original. There's really not much an option for HO alternators that bolt in easily. I have one that a guy in Dallas sells. It's meant for the newer subarus. To fit it on mine I had to extend the main power leads and re-wire the other leads to a new plug. As for the underdriving option. It is an option, and I'm doing it. You want to underdrive the alternator pulley. The alternator pulley is a driven pulley, not a driving pulley. Think of a bicycle....when you put the bike in the smaller gear in the back.....you go faster.....decreasing the size of the alternator pulley does exactly the same thing. Go Fast Bits out of Australia are the only company I was able to find that makes an underdriven alternator pulley. I wanted just the alternator pulley and not anything else, since I'm going to be going back to stock sized aluminum crank pulley. To do that I contacted GFB directly and they were able to help me purchase just the alternator pulley through autospeed. I'm still waiting on the pulley since the anodized red pullies were out of stock. With the GFB underdriven alternator pulley, you'll get an increase in rpm of roughly 100 rpm....that's it.