Legacy777

To be quite honest, I have never heard of a fuel temp sensor. Are you sure that's what they said? If so, I'd suggest going some place else for a second opinion. Most autozones will pull the codes for you. They won't clear them, but they'll usually pull them and tell you what they are. There's a few other autoparts places that will do it as well.

I just replaced my cv axles today. you shouldn't really have much movement when they are on the car. When off the car the inner joint is capable of sliding back and forth. The outer one doesn't really move in or out.

other option you could try is just hard wiring the fuel pump relay to ground and a switch, so you can turn the fuel pump on & off on your own.

the info I have on the fuel pump control goes like this flow chart Crank angle sensor => ECU => Fuel Pump Relay => Fuel Pump If that's the case, then the ignitor shouldn't affect the fuel pump....

there are a couple places you can tap into. You don't need to tap directly into the ignition key source, just a lead that is switched on/off with the ignition. I can't give you a specific spot. You'll just need to prob around with a test light or multi-meter. Other option is to tie the voltmeter into an accessory on/off lead, such as a lead that the radio connects to.

Ok, here's the info. Read memory connectors are Red Black & Black Red Test memory connectors are Orange & Black Red (The Black Red wiring is shared between the read & test connectors) The check engine light bulb wire is Red Yellow. However I don't know if the ECU is sourcing or sinking a voltage. Nor do I know if it's 12v or 5v. I'd suggest probing the actual pins on the ECU. The read mode connector is terminal 12 on connector B56 The test mode connector is terminal 13 on connector B56 The CEL light is terminal 19 on connector F47. (the note on the CEL is LED "ON": 1,max. LED "OFF": 10-14) I'm not sure if they're referring to the O2 monitor LED on the ECU that is blinking....or if they're talking about the light in the combination meter. That's the other thing, there is an O2 monitor LED on the ECU which will display codes too. These pages will be helpful and have the same info I just posted on the connector/terminal info, as well as a pic of the connectors. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/ECU_I-O_page1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/ECU_I-O_page2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/ECU_I-O_page3.jpg

get a new pressure switch. I believe you can replace it without depressurizing the system. I'm not 100% sure about that.....but it's in the receiver/dryer. I suppose you could bridge the switch, but I'd want to make sure my pressures are good first.....also you can cause some bad issues if your pressures rise too high and the switch isn't hooked up.

I also would like to know what connections you have hooked up. IE what pins did you hook up and what did you not hook up from the original wiring harness?

ECU has four connectors, TCU has three. I've mentioned this page before, but people seem to forget http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/ it has all the pinout info you want. ECU & TCU.....was taken from the 1990 FSM's. I'm also assuming you've seen this pic, which shows the physical location of each....the ECU & TCU http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ecuhide.jpg

I will check my wiring diagrams for the color of the check connector wires, as well as how the CEL is setup. I have a funny fealing it's a little more complicated then just a simple bulb that's turned on and off by the ECU.....however I could be wrong..... I'll let ya know what I find out.

OBD2 sometimes will act that way. The codes won't clear with a simple battery disconnect. They need to be cleared with a scan tool. In your case the computer probably needed some time to see that the signal is good again, and it turned the light out itself. turning the car on/off again did that. From some reason O2 sensor codes are weird......I can run my car without an O2 sensor for a while, get no code, then all of a sudden it pops one up.

Firstly..... $190 is definitely a little high for a crank sensor......however $17 is a little low..... Have you back-probed the fuel pump wiring to actually verify the pump is coming on, and then shutting off? Or are you going by sound? Verify it with a voltmeter to be sure. Next, verify the wiring is good from the ECU to the crank & cam sensors. Check resistance on the wires, make sure they have zero continuity. You're positive the tone wheels on the crank and cam are ok and nothing has been damaged? I'm assuming the engine is properly & well grounded correct? What year legacy did you take the motor from? What year legacy did you take the wiring harness & ECU from?

gotcha.....i'll have to look in my fsm's. What year did you snag the motor and wiring from? do you have the combination meter in there to blink, or have you rigged something up?

connect both black & green connectors to clear the codes. Instructions for this method are on my site. I'm not sure the color of the wire that the connectors are connected to. One is yellow.......how come you want to know?

must be :-)

You've still most likely got a short or some intermittant problem in the duty-c solenoid circuit. Without tracing every wiring & or testing it.....You really can't elminate the possibility that the wiring is faulty/shorting out. If all wiring is good, and you know solenoid is good....then I'd start looking at the TCU or ECU.

I replied to your thread on nasioc....but you didn't seem to respond yet....so here's what I post So even with the fuse in you still get those spontaneous torque bind issues? It sounds like you have a wiring issue some where. Possibly a loose connection or a frayed wire.....that's exactly what it sounds like. I'd make sure all the wiring is good. Other thing you should do, if you have wiring diagrams is see where the +12v is coming from that is powering the duty c solenoid. That could help diagnose the issue.

I'd still like to do the conversion. I got a buddy in seattle area that has a t-legacy 5spd, rear diff, driveline, axles. The tranny & diff have been my big wants from a t-legacy because of the gearing and his diff is lsd. The other parts I can salvage from a n/a legacy. I just have to wait and see how things work out.... But the auto slush box is definitely the weak point of the car now.

They basically balance the flow rates on the injectors as well as improve spray characteristics. There's some info on what all they do on rceng's site.

As mentioned, check all the hoses. Also, pull the valve off, apply voltage to it. If you hear it click, it's good. If not.....it's bad.

I would say there's no simple formula to determine the point at which hydroplaning will occur. It would have to take into account a lot of variables.

it really wasn't that hard, just a bit of stuff you need to make sure you do. I did about 4 hours of work friday night, and another 4 or so on saturday. However some of that time was for cleaning as well. Got the injectors from a buddy that had them balanced & blue printed at http://www.rceng.com

I really haven't been posting much about the car much. I however got some big things i've been wanting to get done for a long while. Last week I put in a generic 4-wire O2 sensor to replace the 3-wire OEM unit. The reasoning behind this is that on the older cars, the exhaust is rusted, cruddy, and just a poor ground. The sensor grounds through the exhaust, which can cause slow readings or incorrect readings. The 4-wire has a separate sensor ground. It helped the idle out a bit, much smoother. This weekend I was going to do my cv axles, but I got home friday and didn't have a socket big enough, so I went to plan B which was swap the balanced & blue printed injectors I bought almost a year ago from a buddy. They are from a 92-94 legacy. The 90-91 autos used a pintle type injector. The 92-94's used a normal one I guess. Well the fuel rails are different between the injectors. So the whole rails need to be swapped as well. I tried to do this on the car....and it was a mess, fuel going everywhere. So this time I pulled the whole intake manifold. Which I might add, I've been meaning to replace the intake manifold gaskets as well. After getting it off, the old gaskets are crap....thin, thin metal. I believe most of the oil that was accumulating around the runners' base was seeping through the gasket from the intake manifold. So I swapped everything cleaned up as much of the oil mess as I could. I was quite surprised at how clean everything was in the ports & valves, no carbon build, no nothing. I don't know if it was because I ran seafoam the weekend before or not. But either way things looked good. I finished everything up today, and car idles rock solid. It doesn't seem to knock when I floor it from a dead stop in neutral. I think that is due to intake manifold gasket issues before. Car does seem to run smoother....haven't noticed any real power gains, but I'm hoping the ECU will do some learning to improve things. It usually needs some good highway running to do this. Also, I'm hoping my mileage goes up.....it's been utter crap.....especially for a n/a motor. Here's pics. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/

Without getting too lengthy on my part, just trust me......don't clean your TB, it doesn't affect idle, and depending on the TB, you can cause yourself a lot of greif. You can get the procedure for setting the TPS here http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/TPS_testing3.jpg With the car off, take the rubber hose off the intake tube that goes to the IAC valve. Then spray brake cleaner down the tube. If you want to be real thorough, you can remove the valve, or remove the electro magnetic top and rotate the valve. Make sure you mark exactly where the top was aligned so you can get the top back to where it needs to be. Other things that will affect idle are dirty injectors, bad/lazy O2 sensor.

your idle air control valve is probably sticking. You can try cleaning it. Use brake cleaner and spray down the tube for the IAC valve. You can take the top electro magnet off the body, but just make sure you mark exactly where it goes. that way you can put it back on the same way. By taking that top piece off, it allows you to rotate the valve back and forth, while you spray the cleaner in there.