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Legacy777

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Everything posted by Legacy777

  1. I'll try the brake and accel thing. Like I said I don't think it's mounts......since I just replaced them, but it might show me something else too.
  2. what do you mean? sure money is an object, but I can get reman'd axles for 55 a piece. Ball joints shouldn't be too much.
  3. You need to repack the bearings with good wheel bearing grease. The stuff in there is just packing grease. Technically, if you mess with anything you should get an alignment, even if you don't dissamble the hub from the strut.....it's going to be off slightly from what it was. The same with the rear. I'd sooner pay for an alignment then wear my tires down.
  4. there's two different brake lights. The one that goes on for the e-brake also goes on if the level of fluid in the MC is low. There is also a stop lamp light that illuminates if a bulb is out.
  5. It was more like a clunking noise. I drove to the airport this morning, and didn't have any problems. I'm going to order axles and replace them.....they're probably due anyway.....I'll probably get to replace the ball joints as well.
  6. i didn't read all of the posts, but I would suggest changing the tranny fluid if it hasn't been changed recently to see if that elminates or reduces the binding.
  7. I think you really should try and measure temps, either intake air temps, or if you really can't do that easily, get a thermal couple and stick it in the coolant lines for the intercooler radiator to check the temp of the coolant initially, and see if your temps raise a considerable amount after being on boost for a while.
  8. checked all the tires....they all good. I couldn't reproduce the vibration today. I'll see what i can do when I go to the airport tomorrow morning. Emil, just difference in terms
  9. It's possible, I would think it would throw a code or something. You can check the TCU codes yourself. Instructions are on my site. Without a select monitor it would be difficult to tell for sure.
  10. Actually the term axle would be correct Yeah it's possible one of them is out of balance. I just don't know why it would do it, then go away, and now not do it any more. I'll be driving up to the airport tomorrow, so I'll see if it does it again.
  11. just for clarification. You are talking about a legacy/liberty RS, and the intercooler radiator for the air-water intercooler correct? Are you having any temp issues currently with the for the intercooler getting too hot? If so, another radiator may help. You want to make sure it can flow enough, so it doesn't become a restriction.
  12. I am still thinking it's the axles. Only thing else I can think of is trans or diff, and axles are much cheaper then trans or diff. I did not check the axle nut, but I tried shaking the wheel, and it was not loose.
  13. It's very possible the auto trans is getting tired.....and yah I probably am a little harder on things then most. I mentioned cv axles because they were rebuilt, and really should have been replaced. They did click after being rebuilt and within the past months I do get clicking under acceleration and turning. It still however may not be the cause of the problem, just an additional one. It really felt/sounded like something was hitting/banging. As for driveshaft.....I don't have one, FWD. Just replaced engine mounts with sti engine mounts 2 weekends ago. It did do it at slower speeds, but was no way near as bad, and after I stopped and looked at the car and everything, I couldn't reproduce it. It is definitely speed dependant, not engine rpm dependant. It felt like a vibration (out of balance tire) as well as the noise I mentioned earlier. As mentioned I have new engine mounts, tranny mount looks fine, I have a new one I will be putting in shortly, but I don't think that is the cause. Steering rack bushings just got replaced last weekend with the whiteline poly bushings. Tires are wearing fine. I've jacked up the front and rear of the car and everything seems fine, nothing loose. Draining fluid in the diff and trans are about the only way I can think to check them.
  14. Had something weird happen yesterday. Was on the freeway and had a pretty nasty vibration come on when I left off the accelerator. It almost felt/heard like something was clanking. When I accelerated again, it went away. It seemed to go away, because it doesn't seem to do it....however I haven't really gone on the freeway again.... Only thing I can think of is cv axle or diff/trans. The axles were rebuilt in 97......they should've been replaced......they have been making clicking under acceleration......I think they've just come to the point where all the inards are toast. Any ideas/comments?
  15. just put an optima yellow top in and be done with it, there's no need for a dual battery setup. If anything, I'd suggest a yellow top & higher output alternator.
  16. ummm.....not really.....you might want to try and find a used one at a junkyard with a return policy that if it doesn't fix your problem, you can return it and get a full refund.
  17. Not sure where in seattle area you're located, but in the edmonds area my mom's friend owns a tranny shop. K C Martin Automotive 21609 Highway 99 # A, Lynnwood, WA 98036 Phone: (425) 672-0920 They do good work, he put in a shift kit on my legacy.
  18. You may want to check out http://www.nasioc.com there's a bunch more WRX owners there. There are some autos. Yeah i'd probably recommend trans cooler.
  19. glad to help......either the dealership is stupid....or just didn't want to help you....
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