Legacy777

Yeah, my write-up has a lot of details. If you are not converting from AT to MT or if you're already MT, just ignore the MT section of the swap. If you have questions, just post.

Glad to hear you figured it out, and yeah....I don't recomend anything but NGK plugs in these engines.

Is the handle just stiff to open or what exactly is it doing? You may want to read over this info. http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/hobiegary/locks.html

The magnetic speed pickup coil towards the bottom, sen-4165 is probably the closest thing I found that might work. http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=109/prd109.htm

Welcome to the USMB!

If I had to guess, I'd say something is probably gunked up with the swapping mechanism between the two turbos. Those cars were unfortunately very complicated. If you don't find anyone that has experience with the twin turbo setups on here, I'd suggest checking out http://sl-i.net/FORUM/

The main way you can tell a phase 1 4eat from a phase 2 4eat is that the plugs are slightly different. One of the plugs should be the same, but the other won't be perfectly rectangular. Unfortunately I don't have a picture readily available to show you....as it would make a lot more sense.

A resistor pack would not work. The ECU sees a square wave signal from the VSS. You would need to have some sort of square wave generator that would output a square wave speed signal of some kind to fool the ECU.

If you can find one that is of the same pressure rating and quality, it should be ok.

It depends on the generation 4EAT trans. What year is the 2nd gen Outback? If it has a Phase 2 4EAT, then it is likely that the 4EAT out of the 3rd gen would work. You still would need to match the rear diff to the final drive in the transmission.

One option I can think of is getting a VSS signal generator that creates a bogus speed sensor output to the ECU to make it happy. There's got to be something like that out there. Only other thought is trying to use the signal from the ABS tone wheels to generate a speed signal for the ECU.

Best suggestion would be to try and find used ones. You can try posting in the marketplace. If you want new ones, you'll probably have to go the dealer.

There was this, but doesn't go back to 2001. http://www.reuters.com/article/2013/03/07/us-subaru-recall-idUSBRE9260XO20130307

Welcome to the USMB.

I don't know if I'd say it's typical, but it certain sounds like a fueling issue, which can be related back to the coolant temp sensor. They're about $20 from one of the online subaru dealers www.subaruparts.com www.subarugenuineparts.com or www.1stsubaruparts.com All of those dealers are in the PNW area, so you may be able to pick it up and save on shipping.

Welcome to the USMB. Sometimes cold starting issues on these subaru motors can be caused by a worn coolant temp sensor. There are a lot of engine temperature related fuel trim tables, so if that sensor is reading wrong when cold, that could be causing your cold start issues.

Actually, that NAPA one looks pretty similar to the Subaru t-stat. Here are some pictures. http://www.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/ej22t/10/DCP_4799.JPG http://www.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/ej22t/10/DCP_4800.JPG http://www.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/ej22t/10/DCP_4801.JPG http://www.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/ej22t/10/DCP_4802.JPG http://www.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/ej22t/10/DCP_4803.JPG http://www.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/ej22t/10/DCP_4804.JPG http://www.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/ej22t/10/DCP_4805.JPG

Yes, that is absolutely 100% true! If you don't have an OEM Subaru thermostat in there, it will give you problems. Stant also makes the "Xactstat", which is supposed to be the same as an OEM Subaru thermostat. I have not used the Stant Xactstat, but this thread has more info. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/124587-new-stant-xactstat-oem-thermostat-available-at-parts-stores/ The cost looks to be similar to an OEM Subaru t-stat, so it's kind of up to you whether you want to give the xactstat a try.

I would start with maybe replacing the top hose. Does the radiator feel cool on one side and hot on the other? It may be plugged. It sounds like either there's an obstruction or there is air in the system. Have you let the radiator cap off while warming up to eliminate trapped air in the system?

Well hopefully they find something else or if it is the headgasket it just goes so you can replace it and get it fixed.

Welcome to the USMB!

Welcome to the USMB. If you have a check engine light on, you're on the right track to try and figure out what codes are stored. I am pretty sure that your car should be OBD2 compliant, and if it is you should be able to read the codes with a standard code reader. Here in the states, local autoparts stores will read the codes for free. You could try this and see what codes come up. I'd then suggest pulling the battery for an hour or so to clear the codes, drive the car and then pull the codes again to see what comes back. That should eliminate any false or old codes.

Welcome to the USMB. I'm going to move your post to the New gen forum where some more folks will likely have some feedback on the seat covers.

Welcome to the USMB. That sucks about the head gasket. I'm sure there is a service limit on the heads in how much they can be machined, but I don't know the amount. It would be in the factory manuals. A machine shop that deals with Subarus would likely have that info. Or you could try calling and talking with a local Subaru dealer.

If you notice there isn't a filler spot on the radiator, and the coolant tank is where you add coolant for the engine. These tanks can crack. You can either get a new one from the dealer. Other people have retrofitted the metal tanks from the WRX/STi.