Legacy777
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Everything posted by Legacy777
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Welcome to the USMB!
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This thread on the BBS has some good info http://www.bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=47526 Another on here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/96131-forester-fxt-struts-on-90-legacy-with-pics/ -
Welcome to the USMB, and hopefully you'll be the owner of an XV in the near future!
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Welcome to the USMB!
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Well I cleaned the Impreza on Friday and decided to give the electrical tape on the lift gate latch a try and so far it worked very well! When I put the tape on I noticed the latch had a worn spot. If I had to guess, I think that is one of the reasons it never had a "positive" feel when shutting.
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Yeah I'm not sure about mixing & matching extension housings, but I'd give it a try and see if it works. I know I've heard of folks on the BBS taking newere trans with the speed sensor, removing it, and screwing in the older style cable adapter.
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Good pictures! Thanks for following up.
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Any chance you could take a picture of what you're talking about on the speedo? I'm trying to picture it and the only thing I can come up with is the speedo shaft needs to be inserted and that snap ring installed before the transmission is assembled.
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Welcome to the USMB. I'm going to move your thread to the New gen forum where it may get some more visibility.
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Welcome to the USMB. I think most of the items you posted should have the wiring there and should be relatively easy to just swap over. However, I can't confirm all those for sure, so you may just have to check and see if the wiring connector is there. Regarding the outback struts, 2000 was the first year for the newly designed rear suspension. It uses a multi link setup vs. the older strut setup. It's still probably swappable, but I don't know the specifics regarding what all components should be swapped.
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You can see the rear section of the trans better in this picture. http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/images/swap/14/DCP_3338.JPG I merged your other post into this one to keep things organized.
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Subaru doesn't sell or list the contacts separately. However, you can buy them from this site or from Toyota. You just need to match up the contacts with what's in your starter. More than likely, the contacts are the A style. http://4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml#OnlineOrdering
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How does the trans fluid look? Have you changed it recently? If not, I'd suggest maybe draining and refilling it to see if it helps.
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That is the transmission. There is a rear section of the transmission case so you could replace just that without having to get an entirely new transmission.
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It doesn't look promising, but you may want to check and see if there are any more recent posts on there. http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/104-gen-4-2010-present/49531-2013-navigation-hack-bad-news.html
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To do this you would also have to deal with differences in wiring and the ECU, which may require tweaking or swapping of the electrical harnesses. Unless you are very set on this, I'd probably suggest against doing this as it'll likely be quite a bit of work and other electrical issues.
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A year or so back I talked with a Subaru engineer and he said the WRX & STi's will be moving to a hybrid technology. The Evo's will eventually be going to a hybrid setup as well. As mentioned above, this is all driven by CAFE's standards and meeting fuel economy requirements. This is why Subaru has moved almost all their cars to CVT transmissions. I actually like the styling of the Tourer concept....I can do without the gull wing doors, but overall I like the lines of the car.....but they always get watered down for the production model.
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I'm not sure how many people have 2013 Outbacks, but it'd be interesting to see if the newer Legacies, Outbacks, & Foresters all exhibited similar traits.
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Dave, Thanks for sharing. That's interesting. I didn't know they changed style transfer solenoids.
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Welcome to the USMB.
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I'd try and determine where these specific sensors/solenoids are located and see if there is any physical damage to them. After that, I'd suggest clearing the codes either with a scan tool or battery and see if those same codes come back. Then you'll know whether you actually have a problem with all those codes or if they're just erroneous stored codes.
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Can you describe the "clunk" a little more? Where does it sound like it's coming from?
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I would guess the adheisive on the back on the trim piece is not adhearing all the way, which could be causing the noise. Since it's a brand new car, I would suggest taking it back to the dealer to have them replace or repair the trim so it doesn't make any noise.
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Welcome to the USMB. Most of the routine maintenance is around 100k, so if it's got 60k, it should be ok for a little while longer. Being that it's a turbo engine, try and see what maintenance records are available if any, and that the oil was changed regularly.
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Yeah, glad to hear he's ok!