Legacy777

Not sure if you got your question answered, but I don't think there's a huge issue or problem with doing this. I used to do it when my car was auto. It may cause a little more wear & tear due to the higher revs and such, but I can't see it being a huge issue.

Hi Dan, Not sure if you got the answer you were looking for. There are the two main hoses from the engine to the radiator. There is one small elbow hose from the water pump to the water pump that runs up the driver's side head. There is a small hose that runs off that pipe to the throttle body, another one that runs from the throttle body to idle air control valve, and then one from the idle air control valve to the coolant crossover. Then you have the two hoses that run from the coolant crossover pipe & that pipe from the water pump that go to the heater core.

You may have a similar issue as what I had with the first gen Legacy. http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=1142

Do you have a check engine light on by chance? Those cars are drive by wire and have an electronic throttle. How does the car drive/behave when just driving normally without the cruise on?

When I shipped a Legacy from Seattle to Houston is was about $700. If you've got enough to fill up a carrier, you might be able to get the per car cost down a little bit, but I wouldn't expect it to be significantly lower. The cost from Dallas to PA is also going to pretty similar as Seattle to Houston.

You can't see if the valve is working, but you can hear if it's working. If it's opening/closing it will make a clicking noise. You can apply 12v to one of the pins and ground to the other pin and the relay should click. Also, you can measure the resistance across the pins of the valve. It should be near 36 ohms. Alternatively, you can plug in the green diagnostic connectors, put the ignition in the ON position, and the ECU will cycle on and off all of the output devices, radiator fans, canister purge solenoid, etc. With the canister purge solenoid electrical connector removed you can put a voltmeter on the pins and check for 12v cycling on and off. If you see 12v cycling on and off, the wiring and the ECU are good, and it's definitely the solenoid.

Yeah, that sounds a lot like my problem. I really wish I found out what the actual problem was...

Do you first notice the stuttering when you put the car in gear and drive away, or do you notice the problem as well when you leave the car in park and rev the engine? I had a similar issue over 10 years ago where my Legacy would stumble when I took off in the morning when cold. If I left the engine warm up a minute or so I didn't have any problems. I don't recall it ever coming back after I did my AWD & 5MT conversion, so I'm not sure if it was related to the transmission or not. You can try spraying some brake cleaner in the IAC valve tube. That may help clean some of the carbon off.

From your post I would be 99% confident to say that your problem is the purge control solenoid or less likely the wiring for the purge solenoid. The hissing you're hearing from the gas tank is pressure, not vacuum. Gasoline will produce vapors and create pressure. The charcoal canister in the front of the car is supposed to draw these vapors in, and the canister purge solenoid opens at certain times to pull those vapors into the engine to be burned. When the canister purge solenoid does not work the vapors can build up in the charcoal canister and tank, which will increase the pressure and you'll hear the hissing noise for an extended amount of time. I would recommend replacing the canister purge solenoid valve.

It definitely sounds like a short somewhere. From what you described, it sounds like some wiring has rubbed through the insulation and grounding itself out. That's the only conclusion I can come to due to the fact you drove it for a little while before the problem. My suggestion would be to go back over all the wiring and components you removed for the head gasket work, and ensure it's good.

Yeah, I did this on my 06 Legacy when I had it. The seat belt chime is so freaking annoying! Just an FYI for those folks that haven't owned a newer Subie, the seatbelt chime goes off if you just sitting there parked with the engine on. I agree you should definitely wear your seatbelt, but if you're doing some testing or other type stuff where the engine is running and the car is sitting there, you want to rip out the seat belt chime....that's how annoying it is

You should be able to find the wiring diagrams you need from the factory manual on my server. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/1999_Legacy_FSM/ The pdf, MSA5TCD99L567.pdf in the electrical section, 6-3 should have the info you need.

I've been in Tx a little over 10 years now and while I do miss the Seattle area occasionally, I LOVE the sunshine

Check out this thread for info on the HVAC buttons not working http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=1142 If you don't have any power to the HVAC control unit, it may be something more than just solder joints. Either way, you'll probably have to pull the surround around the gauge cluster to get the HVAC unit out and to check for power at the unit.

You could try cleaning it, but from my own personal experience, the gauge issue came back. I ended up replacing the main sender on the passenger side first, and then had to replace the sub sender to completely fix my gauge issues.

How does the car run when it's warmed up? Do you only have problems when starting the car up after it's sat overnight or all day? You might have a sticking idle air control (IAC) valve or the coolant temp sensor may be going bad, which is causing improper air fuel ratio on startup. How is your gas mileage? Is your Legacy AWD or FWD?

The smaller pipe just means the air is going to move faster, not necessarily that the pressure will be higher. It may be slightly, but nothing you could measure. Do you think the noise is coming from the bottom side of the airbox or topside (after the filter)? You could remove the bottom side of the airbox and just drive up the street to see if the noise is there or not. If it's gone, then you can likely modify the bottom part of the airbox. If the noise is still there, then you'd have to modify the top of the box or the piping after the MAF, and I'm not sure if you wanted to do that. If you modify the bottom of the box, I'd suggest drilling a hole in the bottom and using some pvc pipe to connect that additional hole to inside the fender. You can see what I did in these pics: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/linkinstall/10/DCP_9035.JPG http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/linkinstall/10/DCP_9036.JPG http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/linkinstall/10/DCP_9037.JPG As for the exhaust, the original muffler on my 90 Legacy had a whistle under full throttle. Replacing the muffler made it go away. My 97 Impreza 2.2 has a similar whistle under full throttle, but I think it's engine/intake related. I haven't been able to find it, and have kind of given up.

I have taken the heat shields off the header pipes on my 97 Impreza and haven't put anything back on. I haven't gotten any codes or had any issues. The header wrap would help keep the heat in. I'm not sure about the oil dripping and whether that presents a real problem or not.

I don't know whether you can add the controls, but typically the wiring will probably be there. You might have to swap steering wheels as well as stereos to get the controls. I'm not sure how they're integrated. Hopefully someone else will chime in with some experience.

Gary, Thanks for the tips on fixing the keyless entry remotes!

No, I believe they didn't get the multilink rear end until 2000.

You may need to mix & match top hats to get everything to fit. Check out these threads on the Legacycentral bbs regarding fitment. The 99 Legacy pretty much has the same suspension setup as the 92-94 Legacies. http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=22419 http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=2153

That's good to know about NASTF. Let us know what you end up finding out.

Typically if you put too much in the compressor will cycle on/off more frequently than it should. If the AC is cooling well and the compressor is not cycling too frequently, I wouldn't add any more refrigerent.

I don't have an STi, but can tell you that the reliability and ruggedness of the older subarus hasn't always been passed along to the newer models. I think the STi is a pretty good car, however I'm sure there are some issues here and there. Were you looking at getting a brand new one or used one? You may want to also check out NASIOC since there's a lot more STi owners over there than here.