Legacy777

I'm not sure what that means, but have you tried looking on Genysis's website (assuming they have one)? Do you have a check engine light or something wrong? Is the Genysis just a code retrieval tool, or does it scan ECU data as well?

I would go ahead and use the PAG oil. Mineral oil is typically used with R12 PAG oil is typically used with R134a Esther oil is compatible with both R12 & R134a It would be best to flush the system of any of the old oil since it's probably mineral based oil (for R12 systems) Did your old original compressor say to use PAG oil as well? Also, you probably won't find PAG 90 at the parts store, but you should be able to find PAG 100. That's what I've used in all my setups and it's been fine.

Give this a try. With the clutch fully disengaged, can you press the push rod on the slave cylinder back into the slave cylinder body? If not, you need to adjust the push rod/clevis pin on the clutch master cylinder under the dash. There is a point on the clutch master cylinder that when fully disengaged, allows fluid to go back into the clutch master cylinder resevoir. If the MC isn't disengaged all the way, this can't happen and the clutch slave cylinder stays partially engaged. Here are some pictures of the clutch push rod with bracket & clevis pin. You'll have to loosen the nut on the backside and just turn the bracket. http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/images/swap/10/DCP_3258.JPG http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/images/swap/10/DCP_3260.JPG

The cable clutch should be fine. You may want to go with an upgraded clutch disc & pressure plate, but that's up to you. The more agressive clutches can be a little bit of a pain for a daily driver and have a stiffer clutch pedal. You should be able to use the older turbo Legacy's (91-94) front crossmember. It should bolt up to the GC chassis. The new WRX front crossmember would also work, the only difference would be in the spacing for the bushing mounting points on the lower control arms.

That's good info. What year and model Subie did you do the swap on?

It's interesting you're having this problem on a new Subie. The first generation 90-94 Legacies were notorious for having sun visors that wouldn't stay up. It was because they used a plastic piece that wore out. I tried everything from industrial velcro strips and more. I ended up just buying a new sun visor because I got tired of messing with it.

Welcome to the USMB. Do you have any play in the clutch pedal? Did you use the clutch master cylinder & slave cylinder from the 6spd transmission? If you have any play in the clutch pedal, you may still have air in the lines, which is causing the clutch to not fully disengage.

The earlier year calsonic compressors took a lot of oil, around the 8 oz's you mentioned. The newer ones took less, around 5 oz. I've learned over the years that AC work unfortunately is not an exact science, so whether you use 5 oz or 6 oz....chances are the AC will still work. I would probably recommend putting about 5-6 oz of oil in the compressor and another 1 oz of oil in the receiver drier. Regarding the oil type, mineral (used on R12 systems) and PAG (used on R134a) systems are not compatible. Esther oil is compatible with both, but does not lubricate very well. When I did my R134a conversion I used esther oil initially and ended up going through 2 used compressors. When I finally bought a new compressor I used PAG 100 oil. Assuming you haven't already done the work, I'd suggest flushing the system out and using PAG 100 oil. There is a Haynes HVAC book that is very good and lists oil, refrigerent amounts, & pressures for a variety of vehicles. I'd defintely recommend it if you're doing your own AC work. http://www.amazon.com/Automotive-Heating-Conditioning-Systems-Manuals/dp/1563923815

That's probably correct, but if you get a test light or multimeter, you should be able to confirm that.

I would agree.

Welcome to the USMB. I would suspect it's a collapsed hydraulic lifter. Have you checked the oil level recently? I'd start with that and if it looks really dirty or hasn't been replaced in a while, you may consider changing it and the filter.

If nobody knows of one here, you might try posting something in the South East Region forum on NASIOC to see if someone could recommend someone in the area.

Yes it can be done. The Canadian cars came with manual seat belts, so you'd have to get the belts, trim pieces, and head liner from it to swap it in. Some of the folks on the Legacycentral BBS made the US headliner work, but there's gaps between the trim & headliner. I converted mine to manual belts, but kind of took a different path and kept the US trim pieces except for the lower B pillar trim piece. It required quite a bit of modification to get everything to work the way I wanted it. Here's my thread with all the details and pictures of what I did. http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=41584

I'm not sure it'd really be worth it, but if you're doing it yourself, you'll have to make that call since it's your time.

It will likely be a different pin for the Impreza. I don't have the wiring diagrams, so hopefully someone can comment on which pin the MT/AT identifier is on.

Not sure if you're still looking at this car, but you may want to try offering him $16,500 and see if he'll come down at all.

Welcome to the USMB. Is your Legacy a non-turbo or turbo? I'm going to assume non-turbo. On the non-turbo Legacies there is a little bleeder screw on the passenger side of the radiator. This needs to be removed during filling of the cooling system to make sure you don't get an air pocket. What you've described with the water coming out of the engine sounds normal. The thermostat should be closed when the engine is "cold". How many miles are on the car, and do you know the last time the thermostat has been replaced? If not, I might suggest replacing it. I would only suggest using a Subaru thermostat. Some have also recommended the new Stant Xactstat's, but I haven't had any experience with them yet. Here's a link with more info. http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=128919 If you bleed the system, replace the t-stat, and still have issues, chances are you might have a headgasket issue.

It's possible something is loose at the rear end. Probably the best thing to do is jack up the car and look around to see if you notice anything loose or not where it should be. You can try pulling on a the axles/rear diff a little bit to see if something is loose. Make sure you've got the car on jackstands. If you don't find anything, I'd suggest taking it to the dealer. It should still be under warranty.

Welcome to the USMB. Yes the AM/FM antenna is in the glass. Assuming the correct windshield was used, it may just be a matter of hooking up the wires correctly.

Welcome to the USMB. You may want to post in the subaru stuff wanted forum as well as the old gen forum.

Going to move this to the new gen forum.

I'll move the thread over there.

Since there's a code stored, check the codes and see what it points to. No sense is trying to guess.

The rear O2 sensor will be the one that would cause this code, so if you get tired of the code, you could try swapping the rear O2 sensor.