Legacy777

Use this one 1. Right front brake 2. Left rear brake 3. Left front brake 4. Right rear brake

I actually do have a boroscope, so will check out the cylinder before final assembly to make sure I got everything out. I should be getting the kit this week, and will probably tackle the project next weekend. I'll let everyone know how it goes.

Welcome to the USMB Jen. I moved your post to the new gen forum where it should get some more traffic. The compression check numbers the guy in Idaho gave you are an indicator of the engine's health. 180 - 200 psi sounds normal. Does the guy know what year and model Subaru the engine is out of? There are some differences with the electrical connectors and sensors, so you want to try and get an engine that matches the connectors in your car.

It may not be 100%, but the grease should catch most of it. Plus, it'll work for what I'm trying to do here. I ordered the time-sert stuff. For reference, here is the site where I got the Time-Serts & the specific part #'s. They would be the same for pretty much any Subaru motor since they all would likely need the extended reach handle and the insert is based off the spark plug, which is common across a lot of Subaru engines. http://www.denlorstools.com/ Time-Sert spark plug repair tool (M14x1.25) - p/n: 4412E - $184.99 Time-Sert spark plug insert (.60" / 15mm) - p/n: 44129 - $2.53 Time-Sert Driver oil (Optional) - p/n: 6010 - $2.99

I'm bringing this thread from the dead because I find it very interesting that I've got a similar issue on my 1997 Impreza 2.2l. I've had what I thought was an exhaust leak for about a year. I could not find the leak. The engine ran fine. Last weekend I noticed a little bit of a sputter and then it went away. So last night I decided to do a tune up, changed oil and rotated the tires, and was going to change the plugs. I find that the # 3 cylinder (passenger rear) plug was loose. The threads appear to be stripped. The odd thing is that I put a used plug back in that hole so I could at least move the car out of the garage, and it started fine, engine ran fine, so the plug must have caught some teeth. Anyway, I'm probably going to use a time-sert repair kit, since I just want to get it fixed, and sell it. The time-sert looks to be one of the better brands out there. http://www.timesert.com/html/sparkplug.html They've even got a video. http://www.timesert.com/html/howtosp.html

Just for additional information, I measured the height from the outer edges of the metal bracket on the bottom & top right at 15.5". I believe is the same as your GT radiator, but if you have a chance to confirm, that would be great. Here's the specs on the two radiators from Spectra's site 1990-1994 Non-turbo Legacy Radiator Part Specifications Core Material : Aluminum Tank Material : Plastic Row No : 1 Core Height : 26-3/8'' Core Width : 14-1/8'' Core Depth : 5/8'' Inlet Header : 1-7/8'' x 15'' Outlet Header : 1-7/8'' x 15'' Inlet : 1-1/2'' Outlet : 1-1/2'' Eoc : None Toc : 5-7/8'' (Concentric) Notes : Installation Kit: 1 x Installation Sheet 1996-1997 2.5 Non-turbo Legacy GT Radiator Part Specifications Core Material : Aluminum Tank Material : Plastic Row No : 1 Core Height : 26-3/8'' Core Width : 14-1/8'' Core Depth : 1'' Inlet Header : 2'' x 15-1/4'' Outlet Header : 2'' x 15-1/4'' Inlet : 1-1/2'' Outlet : 1-1/2'' Eoc : None Toc : 7-7/8'' (Concentric) Notes : Installation Kit: (ACPK241) 1 x Installation Sheet 1 x Instruction Sheet 2 x Metal Sideframe 4 x Hex Bolt 1/4'' - 20 UNF x 1/2''

Well those mounts look to be identical. So I'm going to go ahead and get that radiator. I really am in need of it. My Impreza has a stripped spark plug hole on the # 3 cylinder. So I've got to drive the Legacy to work & back tomorrow with the leaking radiator. BTW, the Subaru part # for your radiator is 45199AC110. Thanks for all your help John!!

I've done a little bit of research and found mixed reviews for both the Ready-Rad & Spectra radiators. Unfortunately, I guesss that's to be expected somewhat when searching the interweb.

Thanks GD! I'll do some looking online at Spectra radiators.

Thanks for the info John! Was the radiator you got from Advance an aluminum core with plastic end caps? What brand was it?

Did a little bit of research on Koyo Radiator's website, http://www.koyorad.com/search.asp I found that they only offer a radiator for the 2.5 motor with a build date after 5/97, which would typically be a late model year 97. They are showing the thinner core radiator like what you described in the 95. It looks like Subaru realized they could get by with the thinner core radiator on the 2.5 and cheapened things for the late MY 97's and onward. Here's a screen cap of the info on koyo's site I'd be curious to know what the build date is for your 97 GT. What brand radiator did you buy for it? Thanks

I'd be happy to wait until you get home and take some measurements. Would you happen to still have your old 97GT radiator? Worse case, I'd be happy to buy the old one to use for mocking up and test fitting. Thanks for the help!

I actually have a turbo motor in my Legacy, but the turbo legacy radiator is taller than the non-turbo legacy radiator and won't fit. I'd have to cut out the non-turbo lower radiator support and weld in the turbo one. I don't need it that bad, which is why I've stuck with the non-turbo one.

I'd like to try and get the correct fitment if possible. If it won't work, I'll probably just go with a replacement radiator for my car. It has provided more than capable cooling.

John, Thanks for the reply. No I don't have any unused mounting holes on the top radiator support. Here are some pictures that show the top mounting point for the radiator. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/awicradiator/02/DCP_8226.JPG http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/awicradiator/02/DCP_8235.JPG This picture shows that the distance for the top mounting points is about 21 inches. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/awicradiator/DCP_8151.JPG This shows the bottom of the radiator, which appears to have similar spacing as the top, maybe a little wider. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/ej22t_headwork/IMG_1705.JPG What I am thinking of trying, or would like to try is get the 2.5 radiator and remove the top and bottom mounting brackets/plates and bolt on my mounting plates brackets. Can you confirm/verify that your 2.5 radiator has the bolts on the top and bottom plates to the plastic end caps. Here's a pic showing the top bolt. You can kind of see the bottom bolt in the above picture of just the radiator. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/awicradiator/04/DCP_8301.JPG Based on the info I read in the factory manual I believe the radiator core itself should be the same dimensions, minus the thickness difference. If you can help confirm whether the top & bottom plates are similarly able to be removed, I may see if I can find a used 2.5 radiator to test fit with. Does your GT have an auto or manual trans? Thanks for your help!

I've got a small leak in the radiator on my 90 Legacy, and am trying to investigate whether I can upgrade the radiator to a thicker core radiator found on the 2.5 Legacy around 96-97. Based on the information I've looked at in the factory manuals, the core is the same, but it appears the mounting brackets at the top and the spacing of the feet are off a little bit. So I was just curious if anyone has tried this swap, and/or if anyone has one of those radiators that they could take a few pictures of and maybe take some measurements for me. Thanks

So you tried putting in a new starter, you hooked up the electrical, and it spun without any issues? But when you put it in and tried to start the engine, it didn't work? Yeah, I'd suggest trying to check if something is mechanically stuck. Can you turn the motor over by hand with a breaker bar/socket attached to the front crank pulley?

That's a pretty nice write-up and method! Thanks for sharing.

For most Subaru motors the anti-drain back valve is not necessary since the filter sits vertically with the base or "bowl" downward.

Good to hear you got it fixed. Any idea which one or possibly a combination of both that actually fixed the problem? As for the ATF, the system will bleed the air out from normal driving. Slowly turning the wheel lock to lock will usually get any air out.

Based on what you described, it sounds like there is an issue with the wiring or some other feedback sensor/device to the ECU. It sounds like you've verified all the main sensors that would keep the engine from running. By any chance have you tried a different ECU? You really need to see what the ECU is seeing. I think that would probably help a lot to troubleshoot this problem. I know you mentioned a friend of yours wired this for you, so I'm not sure what all may still be there from the stock wiring. As mentioned above the check engine light will blink with any codes that may be stored or active in the ECU. If the check engine light is not hooked up, it shouldn't be very difficult to wire a general automotive type light to the correct pin on the ECU. You'd want to wire an ignition switched 12v to the light, and then run the other lead to the correct pin on the ECU, connector F47 pin 19. In addition to the CEL, you would need to wire up the read & diagnostic memory pins. All you would need to do is wire each appropriate pin on the ECU to ground to put the ECU in the corresponding diagnostic mode. Some people will wire a simple toggle switch in line so they can flip a switch and check the ECU for codes. I know this may sound difficult, but if your friend that wired things can help, it should be pretty straight forward. Below are links for the ECU I-O and the wiring diagrams from the 90 Legacy service manual. The 91 wiring will be pretty much the same. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/ECU_I-O_page1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/ECU_I-O_page2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/ECU_I-O_page3.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/1990_Legacy_Wiring_Diagrams.zip Also, if you wanted to get real fancy, you can make a connector that would hook into the factory diagnostic connector and display the ECU run time values. This may be more than what you need, but it is an option. http://www.surrealmirage.com/vrg3/b10scan/ The last thing I would suggest is testing continuity in each wire from all the various sensors to the ECU. That way you can verify that all the wiring is good.

Jim, Sounds like you're probably on the right path with the O2 sensor & IAC based on what you described. I guess keep us posted on what you find out and if you still have issues, we can troubleshoot from there.

I had to play around with the shims a bit. After initially putting them in I swapped one or two out for another. Another thing I found is that after putting the shims in initially (and I checked to confirm all the HLA's were good & bled) upon first startup I still had noise. I disassembled and found one of the HLA's to be collapsed. Upon startup a second time, I cranked the engine with the fuel pump turned off and ignitor connector disconnected. This allowed the oil pressure to build back up. I'm not sure if the startup without having immediate oil pressure behind the HLA's caused it to collapse, but that was my theory at the time. So if there's any question whether you have too much lash, you may want to check the HLA's again if you haven't. Delta said I could run two shims, but in looking at it, I think two shims might be a little too much for my liking.

If you disconnect the IAC valve electrical connector from the IAC valve and start the engine, it should have a high idle. If you've done this and the engine still shuts off after 4 seconds, then the problem is not with the IAC valve. After testing the above, what I'd suggest is disconnecting the electrical connector from the MAF sensor and start the engine. If it starts, it will likely idle very rough, but if it idles past 4 seconds, then you've narrowed down your problem to the MAF sensor or wiring. When you wired in the ej22 did you wire in the check engine light pin at the ECU to a light bulb? If not, I'd suggest doing that so you can check the ECU for codes. This may help and save you a bit of time. Also, was the 91 Legacy that you took the motor from an automatic or manual transmission equipped car? What color is the MAF sensor, silver aluminum or black plastic?

I ran into this on my Legacy. As mentioned the cam base circle is not as large, so there will be excess lash. Deltacam recommends using shims/washers under the hydraulic lash adjusters (assuming you have HLA's). Here's my thread with details on the exact washer to use. http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=47718