Legacy777

There's more in the response section below. Pretty good comments.

What year and model?

Not a bad looking legacy

If it was rebuilt properly, you should not see any blue smoke.

It definitely sounds like it's an ABS issue. It may be running due to a bad input from a wheel sensor, or something may be wrong with the wheel sensor. You can try unplugging the ABS unit to verify it stops humming. You could also maybe try resetting the ABS computer. Pulling the battery cable for an hour or so should do that. If none of that helps, you could try disconnecting each wheel speed sensor connector at one time to see if it's possibly getting a bad signal from one of the wheel sensors. Short of that, you may need to have a shop or the dealer hook up to the ABS computer to see if anything looks out of the ordinary.

I would think as long as it's second gen, 95-99 it should work. However there may be a mid-gen change that might not allow it. Hopefully someone else with direct experience will chime in.

Welcome to the USMB. I would probably suggest taking a look at the idle air control valve. It'll be located on the passenger side of the intake manifold just downstream of the throttle body. The valve may be gunked up with oil/carbon and sticking. If you remove the top electro magnet portion, make sure to mark it's position in relation to the valve body so you can put it back in the same spot.

Bump. Anyone help him out with a suggested shop. I know there's a lot of PNW people on this board. You may also want to ask in the meet & greet forum if you don't get any response here.

Welcome to the USMB. Not sure if you got this figured out, but it really sounds like a fuse or possibly a ground issue. I'd suggest checking all the fuses in the main fuse box and the box in the engine bay with a multimeter. There may be a separate circuit with a blown fuse. Other possibility could be a ground wire loose or a short. Those would be more difficult to track down. You can download the 99 legacy factory manual from me. In there are wiring diagrams and you may be able to look at them and try to determine a common power source that may help in narrowing down where to continue looking. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/1999_Legacy_FSM

Well I put the heads on this past weekend, and didn't use any copper spray. So hopefully it holds up well. I don't want to be doing head gaskets again.

Got a little more info on the recommendation for the copper spray. It was specifically for the Cometics head gasket. "The theory is that surfaces that are not freshly machined will have variations that the thin layer of Viton on the Cometics struggles to conform to. The Permatex Copper Gasket Spray can take up those variations." Since I'm just using the carbon stock head gasket, I won't bother with any copper spray, and just install dry.

I split the motor on Saturday. There were areas where the silicone had not cured. I'm glad I took it apart, despite spending about 10 hours disassembling and cleaning everything so it's ready to go back together. We'll try putting together again next weekend.

Wanted to bring up the headgasket issue/question again. I've heard some comments in the positive about using a copper gasket spray on both sides of the head gasket. This was primarily being discussed about the ej22t motor, and other built motors, so likely the 2.5 out of the STi. I'm not sure if the motor type changes anyone's recommendation, I just wanted to throw that out there and see if the feedback is the same.... Thanks

Yes, I'd definitely replace the whole axle. I had my old axles repacked with grease back in 98 or so, not knowing how long the boot had been torn. They were fine....but several years later, 2004 or so I had a weird vibration that occurred intermittantly. Turned out to be the CV axle. So my recommendation is to always replace the axle if the boot has been torn and open for an undertermined amount of time.

There's probably a hook it got stuck on. I don't have any direct experience, but hopefully someone else can comment.

Well....interestingly enough. I went to check things this afternoon. I was going to pull the separator plate off and check things. The silcone seems pretty much near its normal hardness. It is very humid down here due to the tropical storm being near by. So the extra moisture in the air may have helped in curing the silicone. I've got a new tube and some gaskets on order. I will likely let it sit throughout the week, and do a test blob of the new tube and the old tube that has sat for the week and see how they compare.

I called and talked with an engineer at threebond today. He gave the 12 month shelf life expentancy as well. I decided to bite the bullet and split the halves to redo it for piece of mind. I did get them to send me the MSDS for the 1215....it sounds like nasty stuff after reading the MSDS.

I'm going to guess you're going to have to run a wheel without a lot of offset to get them to clear....if they clear at all. When you do that, you put a bit more pressure on the wheel bearings.

Bump, Anyone able to help out?

Well it's "hardening" up more as it sits, but it's still not the same consistancy as it was before. We'll see if it continues to harden...

Specs from threebond say 12 months http://www.nzgaskets.co.nz/pdfs/Threebond/1215.pdf

Thanks for the comments everyone. That's what I kind of expected. I will likely split the case. I'm going to pull the oil pump and rear oil separator and see if they have hardened or not Depending on what I find will determine what I do with the case.

I started building my motor this weekend and have run into a possible issue. I used the recommended Subaru sealant, Threebond 1215 (pretty much same thing as Permatex Ultra Grey). However it is not hardening up. I bought the sealant back in 2005 when I built the first motor. It has set inside my house for about five years. I'm not sure if there's a shelf life for RTV silicone, or if it will harden up with more time. It got a little harder over night, but is still soft. I've got a plate with some blobs sitting outside in the sun to see if heat may help. I'd hate to pull the short block apart, but I certainly wouldn't want the damn thing to start leaking on me. Any thoughts or suggestions are welcome. Thanks PS: Here's some pics of the build Piston Ring Sizing Short Block Assembly

Yup, it reads throttle sensor.

Shawn, I've got one of the SM1's with a couple Legacy cartridges, and few 80's stuff. It is pretty old school, but can give you some real-time feedback on a few parameters that are worth viewing. I picked it up off ebay back in 2002 I think.