Legacy777

Moved your thread over here. Have you asked any Subaru dealers?

You can try adjusting it, but I'd probably leave it alone. From my experience these transmissions have a more firm 1-2 shift than other autos I've driven. It's just how they are, especially under strong acceleration.

When does it do a hard 1-2 shift? Does it do it all the time or if you accelerate and let off a little, then it shifts?

That process was what a friend who was a trans mechanic said to do. Due to the limited amount of space you have to work with doing that method or just adjusting it slightly is all you can do. There's no way you're going to get a torque wrench or anything up there to adjust it like the FSM says. So if you adjust it, just adjust a little bit at a time.

Just an FYI, the brake band handles primarily the 1-2 & 3-4 shift. Here's a scan on it's adjustability. http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/transbrakebandadj.jpg The easiest way to adjust it is to tighten it all the way and then back it off slightly. If you get a jerky shift, back it off a little more.

If the vent line coming from the rear of the car is coming from the charcoal canister, then yes all you need to do is connect the two lines in the front with a hose in a U. I'm pretty sure the vent line coming up will be coming from the charcoal canister vs. directly from the gas tank.

Hi Ben, I'm assuming it's an MT. Have you drained and check the fluid to see if there's any chunks of metal on the drain pain? My 97 Impreza is pretty loud. It's been that way for a couple years now. I plan to drive it until the tranny croaks....which it's not really showing any other signs besides the noise. You may want to try some new fluid.

I'd probably suggest starting with the basic maintenance stuff if it hasn't been checked: air filter, plugs, etc. I'd also look at maybe replacing the coolant temp sensor, and maybe cleaning the MAF sensor.

Bump Anyone able to help out with some suggestions. Once you get into Portland, there's bound to be a couple.

Yes the shift solenoid is on the valve body. There are some solenoids on the bottom of the valve body that you can get to by just removing the pan. There's others on top, which require dropping the valve body. The issue may be with one of the solenoids or possibly one of the passageways in the circuit for that solenoid. I would NOT recommend disconnecting the dropping resistor Gary talks about. I speak from experience. It can firm up shifts, but the transmission is not designed to take full line pressure all the time. After some extended use, especially with a marginal transmission, it can cause further shift delays and other issues. I had mine disconnected for a couple days, and when I plugged it back in, the transmission acted differently, and was never the same. That was on a 90 Legacy. Some of the newer transmissions may accept this mod better, but I wouldn't recommend it.

It's likely a solenoid valve. The brake band handles the 1-2 & 3-4 upshift. You may be able to have the valve body worked on and that may improve things.

Code 35 for the canister purge solenoid can cause some weird issues and not let other codes to clear. I believe this is due to an emissions thing. I would probably recommend replacing it, even if with a used one. You can apply 12v to the solenoid to test it. If you don't hear it clicking, it is bad. The other thing you can do is connect the green diagnostic connectors. It will cycle power to the solenoids so you can check them. The radiator fans will cycle as well as some of the other relays. Code 31, I doubt that's a real problem. Code 24, for the IAC valve may be causing your idle issues. Here's the diagnostic test procedure for the IAC valve. http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/1992-1994_IAC_Diag.zip

Yeah, you're on the right track. Reset the ECU and see what codes come back.

Pull the codes from the ECU. The info on how to perform this is on my site. http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html

It's just a vacuum hose reference to the fuel pressure regulator. You should be able to get some similarly sized vacuum hose at the auto parts store.

Can you provide any additional information as to when this first started happening? Was it a gradual thing, or did you just turn on the car and this happen? Was there any maintenance or other work that was done around the time it first started happening? Is the check engine light on?

I haven't heard anything negative about them. The one thing to note is that 2008 was the first year of the new body style. There were some changes with the suspension and other goodies. So depending on what you're looking for, the change in body style may help narrow things.

I ended up going back to a mechanical gauge because it gives better resolution for small pressure changes.

Actually....the more I think about it.....the MAF sensor is probably a more likely culprit than I first gave it. I experienced some stalling/hesitation several years ago. When I was crusing at freeway speeds the car would hesistate and lose rpms. Most of the time I was able to put the car in neutral and bring it back. On rare occasions I would completely lose all power, and the car wouldn't run. If I let it sit for a few minutes and start it up, everything would be fine. I experienced this problem for over a year. It was intermittant and was pretty much non-existent during the winter months. It was the hotter summer months that I experienced the problem. It finally left a code to confirm my suspicions. I replaced the MAF and never had the problem again.

Well this sounds like an interesting problem for sure. What sort of maintenance have you performed recently, if any? Just because you can rev the engine to 5,000 rpm, may not mean you're getting enough fuel when you start to load the engine up. I would probably start by replacing the fuel filter if you haven't done it recently. Some additional tests/info, like fuel pressure would probably be helpful. Short of that, my stab in the dark would probably be MAF sensor.

Kristen, Welcome to the USMB. Unfortunately, I'm not sure I have a fix for you, but I think it's probably time to try contacting Subaru directly. There are usually regional representatives that can get involved if there are unresolved issues from the dealer. There's a subaru meet this weekend, I'll try and see if anyone has experienced anything similar with 2010 Legacy or Outback.

Welcome to the USMB. Can you describe the sound any more? Is it a clanking, high pitch, low pitch, etc. I would probably suggest looking at the axles or driveline and see you notice anything. It sounds like something is loose and as a result is causing something that is rotating to hit something else.

Artie, I've got all the codes listed and how to check on my site if you want to check it against the haynes manual. http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html I'd suggest trying the active diagnostic with only the green diagnostic connectors and see what shows up.

Welcome to the USMB Robert. If you don't find anyone here that has a pin out, you may want to try http://www.forums.nasioc.com/forums http://www.bbs.legacycentral.org http://scoobymods.com

Welcome to the USMB. It sounds like your AC system needs some service, either needs more refrigerent, or something else. However, to diagnose the problem, the system pressures need to be read and watched. Unless you want to buy all the gauges, I'd highly suggest taking it to a shop and having them diagnose the problem. It may be as simple as putting in some more refrigerent, but without performing some sort of diagnostic tests, it's hard to say.