heartless

the site linked above for paint is awesome - they even had the correct color paint to match my old 1967 F250 - A perfect match! Yes, it is a little pricey, BUT - it is correct automotive paint that will age/wear just like the factory paint when applied correctly, and the color will be correct. and there are several options for purchasing, depending on your needs... touchup sizes (pens and small bottles) 12 oz aerosol cans quarts gallons

umm - maybe $100 times 3 to 5...I just paid $500 for a low miles (30,500) tranny "near" me - if you can count over 3 hours away as "near"...plus the costs to go get it and a $50 core fee for not bringing the bad one in... average going price around here is $350-400 with at least 150,000 miles on them, if not more. there was one yard had one with over 200,000 miles on it and they wanted $450 for it!

Good work! Now just maintain the fluid levels and she should be good for a long while.

before going to all the trouble of pulling the lifters to clean and bleed them - do what was suggested by Rooster and use some MMO, or even a little bit of tranny fluid (no more than 1/2 qt) in the oil - run it for about a 100 miles, then change the oil/filter. During that 100 miles, get it out and RUN it! get the rpms up - you wont hurt it. get it up to full operating temp, and keep it there for a good 20-30 minutes at least. Short trips are harder on an engine than long ones. short trips dont really allow the engine to get up to and maintain full operating temp. fuel pump access is very easy on a wagon - a little harder on the sedans, but basically the same. the main fuel pump access covers are inside, next to the right rear wheel well. it will be an oval shaped plate held on with 4 screws. On the AWD cars there is a round one on the drivers side for access to the secondary jet pump / guage unit. like Miles said - pull up the carpeting to locate the access covers - on the wagon, there is usually a plastic strip between the cargo area carpet, and the rear seat backs (fold the seat backs down) remove the screws holding the strip in place and fold the cargo carpet back and you will see the access cover. on a sedan, the access covers are actually in the trunk - making them a little harder to get to, but not impossible. 90 - early 96 EJ22 is desireable due to the fact that they are a non-interference engine. there is zero damage done if the timing belt breaks on these - replace whatever caused the belt to break - idler pulley seized, water pump, whatever - retime and install a new belt - good to go. They are also a very durable engine and will easily go over 250,000 miles with no major services needed when cared for properly. My current daily driver - a 1990 model - has around 236,500 on it and still going strong. There are others here that have seen much higher mileage than that on one of these engines.

just so happens I picked up a 95 Legacy recently with the exact same problem - no reverse. I found a used, low mileage (30,500 miles) tranny from a junkyard for $500 by searching car-part.com, and the car goes into the shop next week for installation (I just dont have time to do it myself with my work & school schedules)... Posted by johnceggleston in my thread about my 95...( http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/140226-new-addition-with-some-issues/page-3 ) That should help you with your searching.

90-94 are all pretty much the same circuit wise. there "might" be slight differences in wire colors, however,

try here for wiring diagrams: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ i think there was a lot of the older stuff that was "lost" in the change over - it happens.

No need for expensive special tools there either. basically, you just need to keep the pulleys still while loosening the bolt - there are a variety of ways to do this. The engine out of the car does make it a little more challenging, but not impossible. using an impact gun before removing the timing belt can frequently be enough. if that doesnt work, you can use a piece of the old belt to cushion the pulleys and use a set of chain visegrips, or something, to hold the pulley... where there is a will, there is a way - without spending more hard earned money.

availability does have a lot to do with it. The US market got a LOT more of the NA EJ22s than any other EJ version thru the mid to late 90's. Besides - the early NA EJ22, non-interference engine is nearly bulletproof - why NOT use it? Get the best of all worlds - reliability, durability, availability....not to mention ridiculously easy to work on. It is a proven platform that will last a very long time when taken care of. EJ25 to EJ22 - again - Availability. With the prevalance of headgasket issues on the EJ25s most will shy away from using it and go for the availability & durability of the EJ22. Aside from the difficiulties mentioned by grossgary of swapping in a turbo setup in a non-turbo car, most of the turbo units over here have been beat up pretty badly - they get used and abused by young punks that think they need to be red-lining all the time - who wants the kinds of issues on a used motor that kind of treatment brings? not me.

on the oil separator plate - there is an aftermarket one available - I found it recently, but none of us have been brave enough to try it yet - LOL because of access issues, probably best to get the plate, and the required screws, direct from a dealer... check this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/140226-new-addition-with-some-issues/ towards the bottom of page one and into page two there is discussion about the plate, a couple of links to online parts sources, etc. For the ebay timing kit sellers - I have had pretty good luck with Mizumo Auto - have installed several of their kits on 1st gen Legacys, Including my current daily driver - with no problems. Another reliable source is "the import experts" Thats what we are here for - to help each other.

a complete timing service is in order for an engine with unknown history. all idler pulleys, oil seals, tensioner, water pump & t-stat, and belt good timing kits can be found on ebay (sorry, cant think of the reliable seller names right now) and someone posted one from amazon not too long ago that was a gates kit. there are several online sources for parts - rockauto.com & genuinesubaruparts.com (an online dealer) are two that come to mind right off (and that I have bookmarked) I know there are several others that are reasonable as well might try car-part.com for the ecu - see if you can find something locally - you can sort by area, distance from you, etc

dont need a lot of tools to do a timing belt - but it is a bit labor intensive. Experienced DIY-ers can do the job in about 2 hours - newbies 4-6 hours, or more... your car has an interference motor, so a timing failure can be rather expensive in terms of damaged valves. Do not put it off! a full timing service should include: timing belt all idler pulleys (4 in total, 2 smooth center bolt, 1 smooth cammed (for the tensioner), and one toothed) tensioner water pump T-Stat (OEM! these cars are finicky about t-stats) front oil seals (SOHC = 2 cam, 1 crank - DOHC = 4 cam, 1 crank) and a check of the oil pump w/new o-ring - the screws on the back plate can sometimes work loose. Get the job done right and you are good for the next 100,000 miles/160,000km If you are not going to do it yourself, I would find an independant shop that specializes in import cars and call them. Even my little hick town (under 30,000 people) has an import specialist, I would hope Vancouver has at least one, possibly more.

EGR is very obvious - and that motor does not have it. it is possible that the JDM market did not require EGR in 95, while the US market did.

i believe that most here prefer MWE axles - they seem to hold up the longest/have the best quality.

Do this ^ waiting until after dark makes the spark easier to see. Also mist a little water around the spark plug end of the wires. If you used a cheap set of wires you could have one that is jumping spark to the block. I had that happen to me before on my 1990 EJ22 - it was so bad that I could see it in broad daylight! Had to wrap the boot with electrical tape to get to where I was going & get another set of wires. No more cheap wires for me! the crank & cam sensors should not really be affected by moisture unless the housings are cracked/damaged (pretty rare) Do you have a CEL on? (does it even work?) If so, finding out what the code is would be big help in diagnosing.

He did mention it was a JDM engine... Not sure about the JDM market, but the US 95 EJ22 has EGR - upon further review that engine appears to not have EGR... with the plastic oil separtor plate, we know it isnt a 1st gen (90-94) - those had the cast alloy plates. I still suspect 95, even without the EGR system... and, you're welcome, BlueHawk

check the link that AdventureSubaru posted. 22G is Bright Red III/San Remo Red Rooster - the hood on my old 89 GL started rusting along the front edge where the seam for inner & outer layers met - but yeah, it is kind of odd that an 04 hood is rusting enough to warrant replacing it

or - easy access to just about any year Subaru FSM here

i second Miles' call on that one - looks just like the engine in my 95 Legacy. One thing you will definitely want to replace is that plastic plate on the rear - oil separator plate - you want to go metal with that, and the metal one will require different screws.

you should get idler pulleys and oil seals as well - do the job right so you dont have to go back in again for another 100,000 miles. Also, since the belt was not broken, but it was out of time, I would also get a new tensioner for it. the tensioner is probably weak and allowed the belt to skip. There are several good writeups around here for doing your timing - read through them so you have a good understanding of what to do.

this is not a typical behavior - of any car. with both sides going out frequently, I would be looking into electrical issues - most likely suspect: a bad ground related to the headlight circuit. What condition are the connectors in? (the part the bulb plugs in to) do they show any corrosion, darkening (burning) or anything unusual? (note: there should be some dielectric grease in there - factory grease is kind of creamy in color) When installing new bulbs - never, ever touch the actual bulb! oily residue from your hands will cause them to burn out faster. Make sure the bulb is fully plugged in to the connector - partial connections can also cause early failure. I have had Sylvania Silverstars in my car for almost 5 years now & have yet to have one burn out, and I run my headlights nearly all the time (now watch, now that I have said that, one will go...darn Murphy)

coolant leak - first verify that the problem is not the hose being loose and/or old and damaged. You said you had timing done - did the water pump get replaced at the same time? - if so, it is possible there are loose hoses if it is the actual radiator leaking, best to just replace the radiator - dont use stop leak additives - they tend to cause more problems than they solve. hesitation - several possible factors... loose/cracked vacuum lines, old/worn spark plugs, bad plug wires, knock sensor acting up, O2 sensor starting to go... If you have a CEL (verify it works when you first turn the key on - should light up momentarily), get the codes read - OBDII: most chain parts stores will read them for you for free. We will need the actual code - if there is one. If no codes: I would start by checking vacuum lines - old, hard lines can crack easily, and/or dont seal very well. Pay special attention to the small ones behind/under the passenger side intake runner and the bigger line going to the PCV (might want to check that while you are at it). I will second the Throttle body cleaner for the spray testing. You want to use something that will dry/evaporate quickly, and leave no harmful residue. Make sure the air intake hoses are in good condition - no cracks or splits - especially at connection points - and that they are fully seated (air filter condition?). next up would be plugs and wires - plain old ordinary NGK plugs (the cheapest ones), properly gapped, and a good quality set of wires - I like the NGK wires as well. Knock sensor will usually throw a code fairly quickly when it goes, but not always. These can be found on ebay pretty cheaply - around $20, give or take - and are pretty easy to replace. O2 sensor - may/may not throw a code until it is completely gone - on my car, I didnt get an O2 code until the car was pretty much undriveable - would be ok when cold (O2 signal not in use), but would buck, stutter, & generally run like crap once it warmed up (O2 signal used). One other possibility - partially clogged fuel filter - engine isnt getting enough fuel under load...

Well - hate to say it, but this car just has too many issues and I give up. I think there is/was just too much damage from the fire. New starter got it turning over good - replaced fuel pump assembly as well, but it still doesnt get fuel up to the engine - not sure why, and dont really have the time to mess with it anymore since I started working again. Wont be a total write off tho - struts & springs will be going into the 95 Legacy wagon - as well as the complete timing kit, new plug wires, plugs, etc, etc... Once the strut swap is complete, I will be stealing the 15" alloy wheels as well. (will have to replace one of them as it has a nasty dent in the edge - its a wonder it even holds air) I hate giving up on a car - especially one that is in nice physical condition - but I dont know what else to do with it - short of replacing the complete wiring harness...and that would be one heck of a job.

Already answered above - remove the OUTER timing covers - nothing else needs to be touched at this point. the timing cover is 3 seperate sections - the 2 outer pieces can be removed without touching anything else, the center section is the one that will require removing accessory belts, and crank pulley in order to remove it. there are three 10mm bolts that hold each outer cover on - one on the top and two on the lower side of each section.

first things first - check the timing belt - dont guess on this - actually physically check it. If the belt is on & tight, rotate the engine by hand (22mm socket/breaker bar on the crank bolt) and check teeth on the belt to make sure none are missing/damaged. You can do all of this by removing the outer timing covers - nothing else needs to be removed yet. There isnt a whole lot that will cause a no start on the early EJ22s - you have gas, you have spark - my money is on a broken/damaged timing belt.