heartless

just gonna throw this out there... one of my Legacy's acted similarly & it turned out to be a bad O2 sensor.. it would start and idle fine, but get into the throttle and it would stumble and what seemed to be a misfire... took a long time for it to finally throw a code, tho Was about at my wits end with the damned thing when it finally got around to throwing the code.

i didn't look it up, its just one of those weird tidbits that my brain likes to hang on to.. lol hopefully they are all pretty much the same and it is an easy fix for you.

the proper term for it would be pitch stopper, but most call it a dog bone, lol i think the fastest and easiest thing to do would be to test fit one, see if it comes close or not

back in the very early days, they did not have thermostats, lol thermostats came about as a way to warm the engine block a bit faster, which could then produce heat for the passenger compartment a bit faster. was not completely necessary at this point, but it was nice to have. Modern cars - no way i would run without a t-stat because so much else depends on the system being at a specific temp range - as mentioned above. using the correct t-stat for your vehicle is also important. using the wrong one can also produce issues.

i believe that the rear washer line runs along the door sill on drivers side - inside the cabin, under carpet/trim... it enters the tailgate in the upper left corner i would start checking at the point where it enters the tailgate.. there is a rubber boot that the hose runs thru.. pop that loose and check the hose for breaks.

lol yeah, the ones that do that do not typically use a vehicle with a center console.. they use ones with a bench seat... my carrier does this, drives an older pontiac or buick 4 dr sedan, smaller body size..

lol, my first car would do that on occasion, but rather than driving barefoot, i learned to stick my toes under the pedal and lift it, lol

you would be correct - very different styling between the two, even tho they are built on the same platform.

lol, you dont necessarily need to drive like Grandma, but you do need to chill just a little. make an effort to slow down a little.. for a couple of reasons.. 1. your fuel mileage will increase, and 2. you wont end up getting ticketed when pulling away from a stop, dont stomp on it, just ease into it - you are not at the drag races, so stop pretending you are. there are no prizes on the streets, only tickets. I live in the country, so for me, backing off the throttle before i get close to a stop sign is quite useful.. about a 1/8 mile or so.. let the car slow down a little before using the brakes.. brakes will last longer. it is not about driving like Grandma, but it is about making multiple small changes that do add up.

yup, that right there is your problem. You should be able to get closer to 300 miles to a tank full... (roughly 10.5-11 gals of the 14 gal tank) I am going to guess you are under 25 yrs old, right? driving like that is not doing your car any favors - wearing things out faster. Sure, it can be fun - in the right setting - but daily driving on city streets, not so much.

no, the Impreza is a completely different platform to the Legacy - the body panels are not interchangeable

no - completely different vehicles.

bumping up your tire pressures just a little bit will do more for fuel economy than a CAI will, lol example: if you normally run 35psi, bump it up to 40.. tires in general can have a pretty profound affect on fuel economy.. the formula used (hard/soft), tread design, type will impact fuel in one way or another. driving style will also be a factor.. if you tend to be an aggressive driver.. jumping off the line at lights, not slowing before stop signs (ie waiting as long as possible to brake) will eat up a fair bit of fuel economy. average speed, too. if you are one to routinely run 10-15mph over the speed limit on the freeway.. try dropping down to only 5 over... the faster you go, the more fuel you are using. basically, there are lots of little things you can do that dont cost anything at all to improve your fuel economy. on that car, i would expect around 27mpg overall.. you might get it up to 29 if you are lucky.. that was the best i had ever gotten out of my 90 Legacy wagon... same basic car with a few cosmetic changes.

dont have the angle ones from HF, but do have the regular ones (both a half drive ft/lb model, and the smaller 3/8 drive in/lb), and they are fine for most things. Probably would not want to trust it for a high dollar turbo race engine, or everyday use in a professional capacity, but a DIY NA daily driver? should be fine..

seriously? Pull up a SIXTEEN yr old thread for that??

right, and knowing WHICH version you should be looking at is also important. being you are in Canada, which does not have its own version, do you look at the USDM, or European? it is a little easier for me, being in the USA, i go with the USDM version.. then there is the issue of stock engine, or replacement? and if a replacement, what year/version/market? so yeah, there will always be questions.. but I would be far more inclined to follow the FSM over Haynes any day of the week. and i never said they were infallible... no one is ever perfect. you do the best you can with what you have.

if there is no assembly number, then it is not sold as an assembly if there are no numbers at all, then it is very likely that those parts are no longer available Keep in mind, your car is 18 yrs old (mine is the same) - part supplies get depleted and are no longer manufactured for older cars

making sure you have a clean filter, and the air intake is clean and free of obstructions will do far more for you than any aftermarket crap will. little story.. we tried an aftermarket cone filter on our Dodge Ram - it started having all sorts of issues with idle, acceleration and was definitely noisier than the stock setup.. put the stock air intake back on, and all the issues went away.

why would you be wary of a factory service manual, written by the manufacturer??? the FSM is NOT an aftermarket thing, nor was it written with general public consumption in mind.. it is written by Subaru for Subaru Techs in authorized Subaru shops.

the FACTORY service manual, of course - written by Subaru.. honestly, you should just toss that Haynes manual in the trash, i would not trust it for anything more than the most basic of things, like spark plugs, lol

that is very possible.

how sure are you about the underhood vacuum components? the diaphragm inside the one piece is a common failure point. as are hardened, dried out vacuum lines. if the system wont hold a vacuum, it wont work. you may also need to adjust the cable more. it needs to be equal in tension to the main throttle cable.

my personal opinion on the pulleys.. do them all and be done with it for 100K yes, the cogged idler is the absolute bare minimum if you are on a super tight budget, but if you are that far in, and you can afford to, it is worth doing it all and not having to worry about it.

i guess my question would be, were you turning it in the right direction? to tighten, the star wheel gets turned up (counter-clockwise) if you were turning down (clockwise) you actually loosened things up

manual says 7-8 clicks on the e-brake handle, which, i personally think is a bit much.. 3-4 would be far more realistic and it is not necessarily "ineptitude", but it is definitely different than what most are used to, lol honestly, after 20 plus years of owning Subarus, not sure i could go back to "American" cars