heartless

nice to hear this one is still kickin!

x2 - the large screwdriver or prybar always works for me, too.

yes, they do, but they typically cause the dash lights to at least flicker when the problem starts to arise - recently had that issue with a so called "lifetime warranty" rebuilt alt from a chain parts store - and of course it would never act up when I took it in to be tested - I dont think that is the problem here... from reading the OP's posts, there is apparently no warning when the car stalls - or very little warning... to the OP - Relays are not that expensive, so replacing that item wont break you... if/when this happens again, I would suggest doing a couple of "diagnostic" type tests right away - keep a set of basic tools in the car - sockets/ratchet (including a spark plug socket), phillips screwdriver, pliers, a cheap pair of plastic tongs and an empty bottle of some sort - soda, windshield washer fluid, etc... 1. make sure there is spark - pull a spark plug, plug it back into the plug wire, and using the plastic tongs, hold it close to a strut bolt, or something similar - crank the engine & make sure there is a good strong spark...(using the tongs prevents you from getting a jolt - and it DOES hurt!) 2. check to make sure fuel is gettting to the engine - pull the main fuel feed off the engine side (the one that comes off the fuel filter), stick the end in the empty bottle, and crank the engine breifly - does fuel come out? Speaking of fuel, when is the last time the fuel filter was changed? another fairly cheap item... If either of the above are missing, or weak, when the car stalls out - you will know where to investigate further. When this happens, how long have/had you been driving the car for that particular drive? (as in from the time you turn the key until it stalls out) Does it happen after only a few minutes? Or does it seem to be a longer period of driving before it stalls? or completely random? (sometimes a long period, sometimes short?

unbolt the pump from the block (timing stuff needs to be out of the way) - check the screws - pretty simple, really. dont know what year motor you are using, but the FSM for 1990 model year gives a torque of only around 4 ft lbs for re-installing - use ultra grey for sealing, and dont forget a new o-ring while you are in there...

my 90 Lego fuel guage only works when it wants to - seems dependant on ambient temps and humidity levels, leading me to think there are wiring issues... I have tried the Techron additive, pulled both sending units & cleaned them manually (AWD version), even replaced one of them - it is still very intermittent as to when it works/doesnt work. I have given up on having a properly working fuel guage. Whenever I fill up, i make sure to reset the trip odo, and go by that - when I hit 280 - 300 miles on that, I know it is about time for a fill up. your mileage may vary....

I dont remember who posted this one up some time back (whoever it was- Thanks!), but I bookmarked it then and refer to it often! http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ Has manuals for many years/models of Subarus

I thank you, also, Corvid - but Fairtax, GD, Grossgary, MilesFox and a few others (I miss Skip!) are far more experienced than I - I have learned a lot from them as well over the years. Good for you for making your friend leave the car, too! That could have been a disaster if you hadnt caught it!

Holy Belt Eater, Batman! Nice catch! I do hope your friend is not driving that car at the moment! that could let go at anytime.

it was installed correctly, Fairtax - spring side up, towards the pump - i will give them that much credit... I could almost see one or maybe two holes - but five?!? a little bit of overkill there... LOL But seriously - why go thru all that when simply getting the correct t-stat is so much easier?

Well, here is one for the books - dont know if I should be appalled or impressed by the "ingenuity" of it.... got around to replacing the water pump on the 2.2 the other day - took the T-stat housing off the old pump to transfer over, and this is what I found living inside it... apparently the PO cheaped out and bought an aftermarket T-stat - it obviously does not have the jiggler pin/bypass hole, so they "made" thier own. so, what say all of you? Appalling? or Ingenious? I might add that there was a 7/16" bolt holding the housing on the old waterpump as well....snagged a couple of good metrics off the old 2.5 to install the housing on the new pump.

Perhaps "somebody" should to avoid this problem for others?

if you need it "now" - definitely used if you go new, both sides for sure, but you wont find a "complete" assembly, sorry. to use new - get new struts, buy/rent a spring compressor set, remove the springs from the old assembly (or puchase new if needed), install springs on the new strut, install assembly in the car. Not all that difficult and can be done in a few hours with nothing more than hand tools, a good jack, and jack stands. (altho pnuematic tools do speed things up a bit.)

you may need a "harmonic balancer" puller to get the timing pulley off with a buggered woodruff key, but otherwise not that difficult of a job. (should be able to borrow/rent one from a chain parts store if you dont have one) take covers off, rotate engine so all the timing hash marks (not arrows) are pointed up in the correct position, remove timing belt, remove the crank timing pulley, fix the key, reinstall everything. the tensioner needs to be compressed s-l-o-w-l-y so it doesnt get damaged, and pinned until after it is reinstalled - most use a small allen wrench for pinning. There is a very good write-up, with pictures, for the 2.2 timing here on the USMB. main crank bolt is supposed to be torqued to 66-79 ft-lbs (according to 1990 FSM) I would go to the high end on that one, just because.

diagrams and information regarding removal available here: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Forester/2003/ taking the glove box out will make things much easier to access.

either Subaru brand, or the Stant Exac-stat - part number 48457 - anything else is a waste of money.

ok, thanks guys I think I will go with the longer hoses to make sure they reach ok.

there are different part numbers listed on Advance website - and differences in length as well... hmmm...maybe go with the longest version of each and trim to fit!

I cant really add much to the conversation, other than to say I think this is a really neet idea, and I would love to do some testing - as a "general public" type of tester, of course...I have zero programming skills and only a rudimentary understanding of programming. but testing for/as "general population user" - that I could be good at! LOL One thing I did not see mentioned in the sensor discussion, however, was any reference to the EGR system? it would be nice for those going from EGR to non-EGR (like me) to be able to "tune" that out - or is this even possible? Ok, I am going to go sit back in the corner and watch with interest now...

Doing a 2.2 swap into a 98 Forester that had the DOHC 2.5 - do I purchase the Forester 2.5 radiator hoses, or the donor Legacy 2.2 hoses? (the existing 2.5 hoses got trashed by a careless "mess-chanic", and the 2.2 hoses are not in the best of shape either...) I am going to guess the 2.5 hoses, as they are a little longer?

according to the diagram (scroll down to page 3 of 4 for manual diagram), it is simply called a "bush" (bushing) http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy%20Outback/2001/Service%20Manual/TRANSMISSION%20-%20TRANSAXLE%20SECTION/Control%20System/MSA5T0104A16768.pdf

just for clarification purposes - pull upper radiator hose off the radiator, leaving it attached to the engine, then pour coolant into the engine block thru the hose. Got it? Good! now go fill your cooling system!

agreed - if you had to force the pads into place in the brackets, they are not going to work properly. The pads should have a little bit of movement when installed in the bracket. If they are tight in the bracket they wont release the rotor properly, causing drag and overheating/premature failure. If this was the case, try to determine where the pad backing plate is binding in the bracket, take it out and file the backing until it fits easily into the bracket. Also, if the piston was not compressed evenly, it can also cause problems.

A bad alternator can kill a good battery. Alternatively, a bad battery can kill an alternator. The two ARE related. Yes, check your wiring for brittleness, corrosion, bad connections that can lead to early failure, but you really do need a fully charged battery (minimum of 11.5 volts) and a good alternator for the system to work properly. Hooking a bad/dead battery up to a good alternator can cause premature failure by making the alternator work overtime trying to recharge the bad/dead battery as well as trying to run/keep up with the electrical system requirements of the running car. These are fairly small alternators - they dont particularly like being overworked. The battery is used primarily for starting purposes. Once the car is running, pretty much all of the electrical power to run the car, and it's accessories (lights, wipers, radio, etc), is supplied by the alternator. So again, I reiterate, do not rely on the alternator to recharge a dead battery.

jabbermen - if you plan on keeping your car a while, I would highly recommend tracking down a factory service manual for it - at the very least the "engine" section/book. Much better information than any Chiltons or Haynes manual will ever give, including step by step trouble shooting for each sensor with the correct values for each, how to test, and where/what terminals to test. I have 3 of the 6 books for my 1990 model - engine section, for everything engine related, including CEL codes; body section for anything "body" related (windows, wipers, interior, etc); and electrical for the wiring schematics and even more electrical trouble shooting info - for things like cruise control, heater controls, etc - invaluable resources!

Front wiring harness repairs are complete! Fixing the sheilded wires was a pain, but I think they should be good - used extra sheilding wrap from the 2.2 harness to make the repairs... time to start on the 2.2 reseal...