heartless

That is about what I paid (US $) to have my left rear bearing done - included a 3 yr warranty on the bearing itself.

I would love to find something with fewer miles on it, but they are few and far between around here for a reasonable price. possibly, but i doubt it - it is a US market car & been in the US pretty much all its life...Was originally titled in Iowa. Would the sohc 2.2 heads fit in the 2.5? it is a dohc motor...plus, with that many miles on the bottom end...not sure I want to go there with out a complete overhaul. I would be more inclined to go for that short block you have, Miles. can you pm me a price? Or maybe we could work out some other deal - parts & cash?

ok, so closer inspection reveals that the plug IS in there, under a good layer of gunk! and the motor does turn nicely... now I just need it to dry up so I can get the car moved - the ground is so saturated around it there is standing water!

Gotcha - page one of two. davebugs - dont know what you guys in PA have for gas, but 89 octane IS the "cheap" stuff around here ("cheap" being a relative term with prices as they are).

And here is the donor... Legacy L, Automatic - build date of 5/90, 205,326 on the clock... The donation ... just one small, possible problem...discovered one of the sparkplugs is missing, and apparently has been for some time from the looks of things... Guess i will need to get a wrench on the crank and see if it will even move - if not, I may be hunting for decent, reasonable mileage 2.2 for the transplant

like i said - a first for me. A couple more pics of the new to us beast... Front interior... is this a common issue with these? What could have caused this? drivers seat is just a little worn considering the mileage... and a good share of the work to pull the 2.5 has already been done for me ...

Most of you have already seen pics of this car in the 'new gen' area, but I figured I would start a build thread for it since it will be getting a heart transplant in the near future (if it ever stops raining & dries up a little so we can get to the donor with the skid steer)... So - to start off we have the pic that was in the craigslist ad... and pics of it on our trailer when I picked it up. So was poking around in it a little today, and discovered this in the windshield....note the date & mileage.... That got me curious, so I got out the jumper cables and this is what I saw.... Holy crapola! I, personally, have never seen one this high in person - I know there are those that have, and higher even (have seen the picture evidence) but this is a first for me. Supposedly the initial owner was a traveling salesperson, so that would explain the mileage and still being in reasonable decent shape for it's age & location.

looks like there is a second code on that reader - top right corner reads 1 / 2 (one of two?) - what is the other one for?

We do basically the same as you - if it is only going to be used once or maybe twice - HF is usually good enough to get the job done. Have used our HF spring compressors I dont know how many times now - at least 4 or 5, and they worked fine every time, even just using hand tools - the key is to keep the two sides fairly even so neither one slips. Have had more trouble trying to remove the lower strut mount bolts than we have had with the compressors! LOL Other HF goodies we have are the 2 ton cherry picker, an engine stand, benchtop drill press (works great!) - the 2 cylinder air compressor pump is awesome - we ran the silly thing only using one cyl for a couple of years (the motor on our old compressor wasnt strong enough to run both, so one was just vented) we built a "new" compressor last year using a 50 gal high pressure boiler tank, that compressor motor and a 5hp/220 motor and the thing works flawlessly (with both cyls hooked up! LOL)- just need to fix one small air leak and it will be perfect! Handles an Ingersall Rand 2131QT 1/2" impact gun with no problems (600ftlbs of torque in reverse - 450 ftlbs foward - sucker uses a LOT of air) We also had a HF 1/2" impact gun - the "earthquake" model - that lasted for about 6-7 years with moderate use/abuse - the newer versions of this gun arent nearly as good as the old one was tho, we bought another one when the first one finally crapped out...kind of disappointed with it.

The thing to remember with HF tools is that a great deal of it is made in China - not the best quality control. That said, we have quite a few HF tools here and all have done what they were intended to do at least once. Oiling the threads is a HUGE help on several of the HF tools - such as the Strut Spring compressors, the above mentioned kit, various pullers, etc... Good luck with your bearing job.

Was just a wild guess on my part, but yes - definitely needs to be tested out more to prove/disprove the theory.

Sounds more like alternator intermittent failure to me - I just went through this with my 90 Legacy last year. Had an aftermarket alt installed in the car (the one with the "lifetime" warranty*) for about a year - dash lights started flashing on/off randomly after the car had been run for about 20 minutes. Went back to the parts store to get it tested, it would test just fine every single time - yet I was still having problems - I went through every single ground on that car! and still had problems...and of course the parts store wont warranty it unless it tests bad. I finally took an old stock unit I had to a local rebuilder, and had it rebuilt. Put that in the car, and have not had a problem one since then. It cost me a bit more, but has been worth it. And I DID get my parts store alt replaced finally - it now sits on a shelf in it's box as a backup. * that was actually like the 3rd "lifetime warranty" alternator I had had in this car - they would only last about a year before failing...

I replaced even that little tiny U bend vacuum line on my 90 legacy - passenger side, behind the intake manifold - with standard, off the shelf, by the foot vacuum line with no issues - the one that was on there was so hard & brittle it snapped when I tried to pull it off. There is only one hose on my car that I have not actually replaced with aftermarket hose - and that is the main PCV hose that has a pretty tight bend near the top - also pretty hard - that one I would probably have to get from a dealer. If I could just figure out how to make that bend, I would do it in heartbeat! Have been playing with old Subarus for a few years now (I know there are others with way more experience than me, however), and with no dealer anywhere close to me, and no "U-Pull-It" junkyards either, and a shortage of Subaru parts cars in the junk yards that we do have, you figure out how to make aftermarket things work for you, even if they arent 100% correct. You also learn how to make use of resources like this board - I have gotten some good parts from some great people here over the years. There is actually very little that you just "have" to get from a dealer. School for me was kind of a necessity. I used to drive truck for a living, but developed a problem with my left foot - bone spurs - cant use a clutch anymore - too painful. Job market being what it is, I had to go back to school in order to make myself more "marketable"... and at nearly 50 yrs old - let me tell ya - it has been a challenge! LOL But that is ok - I like a challenge! I have on more semester - 3 classes - to finish my Associates Degree in Accounting (chosen from a practical standpoint - there will always be a need). Will also be receiving 2 additional related certificates at that time as well - anything I can add to the resume to make it look better, I am all over it! LOL Ok, getting back to your starting issue... Only does this when engine is hot? right? Vapor locking, perhaps? just for grins & giggles, the next time it does this - pop the fuel cap off, let it breath for a second, and replace, see if it will start then....I had an 80's era Ford Escort (long ago) that would do something similar...

Sorry man - couldnt resist the jab...but seriously... Getting your hands on an entire parts car would probably be the best way to go - possibly one that has been rear-ended or maybe even T-boned, so motor, trans, etc are still in good condition and you have pretty much everything you would need - from drivetrain, to electronics. Figuring out the electrical end of things is gonna be the "fun" part, for sure. Good Luck!

why buy it from a dealer? Vacuum line is NOT a necessary "dealer only" item - it comes in various sizes and can be purchased elsewhere quite cheaply. I can get vacuum line by the foot from my local auto parts store for a little less than $1 a foot. about 3 feet is usually enough to do the entire engine. larger hoses do cost a little more, but for the small vacuum line - peanuts. I am also a full time student - Accounting - and have been unemployed since 2009 - so I know what living on a budget means. Certain things should probably come from a dealer - but vacuum line is not one of those things.

wouldnt it be easier to just get (and Drive) a Subaru?

spending the extra cash on "platinum" plugs is a waste of hard earned money, imho - the standard NGK's (owner's manual should give the specific type for your car) work very well in these cars. but, getting back to the bogging issue - if it started suddenly after a fillup, then yeah, I would suspect bad gas as well. depending on the amount of water you got, it may take more than one treatment to get it cleared out.

I personally have not used them (cant afford to), but many here have. They are also a member here - do a search and you will see. Not sure where you are located, but there are several other board members that work on/rebuild motors for others as well.

why, pray tell, are you using used vacuum lines? new vacuum line is cheap! and will make better seal/connection and last longer than using old semi-hardened vacuum line...

http://www.ccrengines.com/ Supposed to be one of the best for Subaru engines.

That is nonsense - granted, they are not "easy" to get out, but it is possible to get them out without breaking anything. Have done it several times and never broke a single one. All 4 injectors "should" be the same in color/style, and should be the appropriate color/style for your specific car - too big a nozzle, or too small a nozzle WILL cause issues. Do not mix colors/styles. as an example - my 1990 Legacy w/4eat has grey top injectors installed - all 4 the same. When installing, give the O-rings a light coating of engine oil to help them slide in and seat properly. trying to put them in dry will almost certainly cause problems with them not seating correctly. Make sure the plugs for each injector are fully & completely connected. And most definitely check your oil level - my bet is that it is extremely diluted with gas at this point and reading really high - should be changed ASAP - and once you get it running properly again, change it again to make sure all the gas is removed from the crankcase.

Ok so maybe I was thinking of GD with the "bluff & gruff" stuff... LOL either way - both of you are pretty great guys. This looks like the one in all the paperwork that was included - yes, I actually have the owners manual, service & warranty booklets, along with keyless entry info. and there is a wire with a button on the end of it hanging under the dash...it must have been added later and they never properly installed the button...

3Pin - if you can get your hands on that rear wiper setup I would gladly pay for shipping! I dont even know if this one actually works or not - no battery to test things out. Oh yeah - something else I might be interested in, if anyone has one (or two) they want to get rid of - keyless remotes - looks like this car is set up for it, but dont have any.

a pause in the rain allowed me to go take a look at that rear wiper - it is broken off! Does look like I might be able to use the arm from my Legacy wagon tho - guess I will just ahve to give it a try.

huh - just noticed the rear wiper is missing...what is it about the rear wipers either missing, or not working?? Ok, next question - anyone know if the rear wiper from my 90 legacy fit/work on this beast?